Hi Everyone

I have a 1994 E-250, former plumbers van, with the interior now stripped to the metal and in good shape.
I'd like to panel the inside kinda like the 70's Boogie vans. I recall back then you could buy full size patterns for cutting the paneling.
The Econoline has no ribs to make the paneling easy and it also has different levels on the walls so It gets a bit involved.

Are there any paneling plans out there anymore????

What is the best way to go about paneling an Econoline??

I appreciate any suggestions

Pat

 

Wow--talk about a project that can get involved! I'll try to be brief but that's tough for me sometimes---hope its not too boring.......

I started by first adding a 3/4" floor closely fitted to the rear floor pan, much like any mat or carpeting. I found a certain type of carpet that is somewhat hard to describe--somewhat like office carpet with a bonded highly durable rubber or urethane backing material. This stuff is absolutely water proof, not allowing anything to leak past that backing. It doesn't require backing and so far its perfectly suited to my '00 E250's work van use.

I first filled the lower inside cavities with unfaced fiberglass batting, doors too. Found patterns to make plywood and ABS panels installed on the doors. This was a bit more involved since I didn't want to drill holes through the factory finish instead using the same holes Ford uses for Club Wagon and similar trim packages. Going overboard with split body threaded inserts was worth the effort and cost because these panels are easily removed if access is required. Having power door locks and rear speakers this was a no brainer to me---I had plenty of time anyway!

After the fiberglass I used a foil backed bubble wrap type commonly found against the walls of metal buildings. Intended to stop radiant heat transfer through the metal and having a fairly high R value given its actual thickness its works well for this. Very thin, easily handled and cut to size the added benefit is my truck no longer sweats winter or summer. At least two layers on the walls and ceiling--the sound control is amazing by comparision to an uninsulated van.

Darkly tinted rear and side doors along with a sliding curtain just behind the driver/passenger seats AND a rear hot water heater completes the part. The A/C and heat are greatly enhanced with the curtain since its now affecting a much much smaller area.

I'm now considering paneling the rear area to increase the insulation further. I'm in the windshield business so during winter I like to keep my glass and other materials warm in order to get the best quality installations. I'll create my own patterns with heavy craft or rosin paper and a few templating tools similar to what carpenters or counter top fabricators use. This is only because I'm very **** about the finished look despite its a work van.

I think the '94's are like my '00 as far as the innner structure panels are concerned? If so depending on the amount and type of insulation you'd like to add the methods to panel the inside are very much open. I'd begin with the 1" flange joining the inner structures to the floor pan and create a vertical flange to which the lower edges of the panels could be attached. The upper box channels are great areas for attaching the upper edges of your panels. If these two areas are spanned by a panel how you contour them to the side profile will dictate what sort of vertical supports will be needed. If weight isn't an issue 3/8" plywood as a backing could support decorative panels without the vertical elements. Since I don't know the final use or effect you're aiming for this part is also completely open.

Ceiling wise you're somewhat limited by the roof rails which are foam glued to the roof pan. I found some Truck-Lite interior dome lights that could be recessed for less intrusion into the already short height of the standard vans. Accomodations and wiring for these need to be carefully considered before anything else---again I went very overboard thinking about future maintenance and/or service, not wanting to create a mess or something impossible to fix after the interior was finished.

I don't any of this helps----you were after all simply looking for ready made patterns! If those are avaiable I'd also be highly interested because I can see more than a few challenging cuts that would be required---having a great pattern would eliminate that eventual step for me.

I'll back away and hope someone else remembers where these patterns might be available.

J W

 

I recently finished paneling my van with white pegboard. Not exactly 70s boggie van, but you could carpet over it.

Mine is setup to haul dirt bikes, so I wasn't too concerned about an imaculate appearance, just nicer with some insulation for colder temps and sound deadening. I shot some expanding foam in the small cavities and stuffed fiberglass in large ones, which can be removed if need be. As far as the pattern goes, I used cardboard to get the cutouts for the wheel wells and gas fill. I mounted the bottom of the panel at the seam near the floor and the top comes about an inch from the ceiling. The pegboard is reasonably strong and doesn't require too much backing and forms to a decent contour with carefully selected mounting points. Also easy to see where to put screws that won't poke through the outer skin. I made some door panels and used indoor-outdoor carpet to cover them. So far I'm into it about $100. I was thinking about doing the floor with OSB and carpet, but might wait and just rhino-line it.

I did a lot of reading on my favorite dirt bike site ans saw some sweet ideas. I took this idea and went with it.
Moto Van on the cheap - ThumperTalk
This guy carpeted over pegboard for a more finished look.
The start of my Motovan - ThumperTalk

 

I used 1/2" plywood donated by a friend. It was free, you see... Anyway, cut everything with a jig saw, just used measurements and trial/error for the final fit. Used "donated" fiberglass insulation as well. Was going to carpet it, never got to it. Wired for lights and cig lighter/"power outlets", never happened.

The 1/2" is plenty stout, and I had these guys on the walls:

https://www.ancra.com/consumer/produ....php?prodid=22

So, use SOME stout materials for anchoring points, then the masonite/abs whatever for cover elsewhere. The better insulations sound good too.

I also put anchors in the floor and the side footwell, as well as a way to slide seats in the back. If you do anything like that, be sure you use a large, thick backing plate if you are going to haul heavy stuff.