When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
no, i didn't know this...though i'm not a mechanic, i've replaced clutches, trannys, ball joints, drive train segments etc over the years...and i'm very meticulous...unless this is just not possible without the full spectrum of shop tools, i'd like to give it a shot...is there any other simpler, just as likely fix to this issue (is the STC a misdiagnosis?). Please advise. Thank you all so much!
dampink, if you have done the items you listed, you can without a doubt do the STC fitment upgrade. I did. The instructions come with the kit, I believe you can get it from Bullet Proof Diesel. Simply follow the instructions to the T.
Do you still have the EGR cooler in there? If so, if you are going to do this work, I suggest you delete the EGR cooler as well along with replace/reseal the oil cooler. Looking back, had I only done the STC fitting seeing how the other items weren't too much more work I would not have been pleased.
This is such an incredible resource! Thanks to all who've offered your learned advice...please, if anyone else wishes to chime in before i pursue this let me know! thanks again!
This is such an incredible resource! Thanks to all who've offered your learned advice...please, if anyone else wishes to chime in before i pursue this let me know! thanks again!
Just search for every thread with "EGR delete" or "white smoke" and "STC fitting" and "HPOP leak" and read every thread you can. You'll learn alot just from that.
Well the diesel mechanic isn't very familiar with the operation on these engines then. THIS issue is likely caused by a high pressure oil system leak. These engines use high pressure engine oil to control fuel pressure at the combustion chambers. When the engine is cold, the oil thickens up enough to overcome the leak source to enable the engine to start. But when the engine is at operating temperature, the oil thins out and can't produce enough pressure for the engine to start. Your STC fitting is likely needing to be ditched in favour of the updated one piece branch tube connector. The part number from Ford for this kit is 4C3Z-9B246-F.
Mine is in the shop for this as we speak. Mine is also a 05, I know of atleast three other people with 05's who have gone through this. I apsolutely love my truck but I have to say it has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned as far as reliability goes.
Mine is in the shop for this as we speak. Mine is also a 05, I know of atleast three other people with 05's who have gone through this. I apsolutely love my truck but I have to say it has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned as far as reliability goes.
I do have to say that I spend way more on maintenance with this truck but it has never broke down or left me stranded. Maybe I pay more attention to the vital signs of this truck. I will add that I have also never had a truck that pulls like this truck and still gets pretty good mileage. Overall I'm a happy camper.
This is such an incredible resource! Thanks to all who've offered your learned advice...please, if anyone else wishes to chime in before i pursue this let me know! thanks again!
I don't want to start a debate but my opinion is if you take care of the cooling system and add a coolant filter then you can have a happy relationship with your egr cooler. As stated before it's usually the oil cooler that plugs on the coolant side which then starves and overheats the egr cooler causing it to fail. My op. again, always look for cause and effect before jumping the gun. If you delete the egr cooler and your area starts smog checks, which they have here, you may be very sorry.
So i just go a 2004 f250. And a week later massive fuel leak. But was coming from the back of the motor. Told my self no fuel is back there started with normal checks. And to my suprize. It was coming from the fuel filter cap. And running across the valve cover and down the back of the block. But thats not what suprized me. Im guessing the rere that owned the truck befor me could not get the cap off so the used a chzel and hammer to get it off, and chiped the housing in like 12 diffrent places. Dont do this. The cap is plastic if you have to brake the cap up and get a new one. The cap is 5 dollars the housing is 198 dollars and took 2 days to get here. And the best part they used RTV to seal the cap. REALLY.
Go to youtube and type in 6.0 hot start or hpop or stc fitting and you will get videos on how to repair your 6.0 step by step with advice along the way. youtube is a great source.
There's a couple other possibilities for the no-start when hot problem.
starting with the simplest first, does the truck have a aftermarket oil filter cap? the aftermarket caps and filters have caused problems for a lot of people with these trucks, especially NAPA and WIX. Problems also arise when there is one of the taller aftermarket caps installed, but with the shorter motorcraft oil filter.
Another possibility could be the standpipes or dummy plugs in the oil rails. These are not fun to get to, but not as bad as the STC fitting.
I know if u have the right seals you should never use RTV
There are places in the 6.0 Engine that do require you to use RTV even if
you have the right seal kits. But putting RTV on an O-ring
Originally Posted by coco deetercus
That one is just more than a little bit chewed-up. Want to get a little
for that dead part? I'll take it off your hands and pay the shipping + a little.
I am making a mockup with tired parts.
07-27-2010, 08:31 AM
