Hey everyone, this is my first post, but I've been reading through the site for a few weeks now. I just bought a an '95 F-350 4x4 single cab and its officially my 5th ford pickup ive owned and Im going to use it as a parts hauler for my 69 Torino. I love this truck.

The salesman said the motors been rebuilt but I see no visual evidence of it. Its got a ton of miles (225k) and still runs very strong. I've been driving to and from work for the last few days just make sure its sound. I've fixed a bad ground causing starting issues, fixed a vacuum leak, tension pulley was shot and some cosmetic stuff. Basically visually inspected everything and checked fluids.

Problem is, this morning couple of times the engine has just cut out while cruising, rpm drop almost to zero, come back up, check engine light flickers when the engine cuts, then everything is fine. Its not running rich, and the only time its burning oil is morning startups.

I just ran new KOEO and KOER test's

KOEO test gets:
211 - PIP erratic or missing (which explains the engine cutting out)
542 - Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on. Power / Fuel Pump circuit

KOER test gets:
311 - Air system not working.

The truck is getting good ground all over the frame and I changed the fuel pump relay and fuses, still happens. You should know that a 30 mile drive it only happens once for a few seconds.

Sorry for the long post but can anyone point me in a direction to look?

Heres a pic of it

 

Suppose ill be the welcome wagon and say good to have you lots of people here with tons of knowledge.

So sounds like you have essentially a sound motor (most 460s have no problem getting to at least 300k miles) the AIR system is part of your emission system involving a compressor with its own pully that just pumps air into the exhaust, it failing could mean the pump is siezing up or the exhaust is clogging up either can cause a problem, but it doesnt sound like a clogged exhaust is the issue and this is where someone else will chime in with a good idea of what to try next, enjoy

 

Thanks for your reply. 300k huh thats good to know. Im a BBF fan, Ive got another one im building up for my car (carbed stroker). Actually Im not overly concerned with the air pump failure yet (I'll get to that later), but concerned about the fuel pump cutting out for a short second while driving and how to ttroubleshoot the fuel pump circuit / grounds.

 

fuel pump really is pretty simple if it's a good pump, but cuts out its probably a grounding issue along the lines of a bounce or bump causing the lose of a good ground

 

The PIP sensor or the selected (if you have two tanks) fuel pump could cause your problem.
The frame does not have to be grounded unless you are pulling a trailer. The push on ground straps between the body and the frame are enough for the radio.

But make sure you have a good body ground from the NEG post of the battery to the body ground beside the battery. The fuel pumps are grounded at the drivers side radiator support.

If it was my truck I would buy a rebuilt distributor and before putting it in tear it all the way down and replace the stator with the new PIP sensor and put that one in.
The rebuilt distributor will have new bushing but more than likely a bad PIP sensor it as when they rebuilt them if the PIP sensor test good they do not change it and more than likely the rebuilt one was changed out because it had a bad PIP sensor in it. We have members on here that have changed out three distributors in a row and then replaced the PIP sensor in the last one to fix the problem.
The bushings should be wore in your distributor and may have some wobble and that is the reason for getting the rebuilt distributor.

The other code on the fuel pump may be from someone trying to fix the problem you have by taking the fuel pump relay out and checking wires. I would clear the codes and drive it with the new distributor and see what codes you get back.
The old codes stick around for 80 start ups if you do not clear them.

The body ground:


The fuel pump ground:

/

 

Guys I sure appreciate all the help! Subford, the pics along with your description is a HUGE help. Much apreciated.

So I havnt started it in 24 hours and I walked outside and it cranked right up, then about 30 seconds later it died and it wouldnt start. When I turned on the ignition I could hear the fuel pump wasnt kicking on.

I left on the ignition (key-on) and went inside to get my coke, when I came out and walked toward truck the pump clicked on. And after a couple of seconds it fired right up. I left it running and inspected all grounds and tapped on everything, shook the truck, jumped on the bed tapped the distributor, drove it around the block...and could NOT get it to kill!

The cap and rotor look almost new and the distributor rotor has almost ZERO play in it.

If my PIP sensor was going out would it cause the pump to click off? or vice versa if the pump was going out would it cause the EEC to throw a PIP code? Next time it dies first thing I'll try is make sure Im getting spark, but im almost certain I am...Think the pumps going out?

Again, this help is much appreciated!

 

With the fuel pump relay going off and on on its own it is starting to sound like a bad computer. That is about the only thing that would do that.
No the PIP sensor would not cause the fuel pump relay to go on and off while setting with the key on and from what you have said the PIP sensor should be OK. It sounds like the pumps are OK also as it seems to start when the fuel pump relay works. You can try to swap out the fuel pump relay with horn relay to see if the relay is bad. Also make sure the body ground is good.
The power relay could also do this by going off and on and that could be a bad Ignition switch or power relay.
If you unplug the computer check for any pushed out pins in the plug.

 

i had the same problem practically.I drive a 1996 f250, 460 crew cab, My truck would just die like i shut the key off while driving. Sometimes it would start right up and others it would not. I got a code for the pip sensor. I changed the distributor with a new one because it was easier for methan just changing the pip sensor. i heard it was kind of a pain. If i am correct, the computer turns the fuel pump off if it doesn't get the signal from the pip sensor to know that the engine is actually turning, hence not turning over, no need for fuel. after i changed mine, haven't had a problem for a year already. I'm sure there's other people with more info. hope that helps.

 

Hmm ok. I already tried swapping the relay with the horn relay. So I just ran outside and decide to check the computer itself and re-check the inertia swith. It all looks good, ground to the ecu is good as well. I unplugged the inertia switch and the motor petered out like it should. When my issue happens the motor doesnt peter out, its like the ignition switch is turning on and off like So-Cal suggested.

all looked fine and the truck kept running. I decided to run the computer codes again, and this time the ONLY thing that came up on KOEO or KOER was a 311...which I could care less about right now.

This truck will need to be reliable but I dont want to sink parts in it untill the prob goes away either.

 

This hanst left me stranded yet because its so short, I never have to pull over it literally happers in a split second. Only time I'v seen it long time was this morning when I couldnt get it started.

But im starting to get the feeling it is the Computer or PIP wish I could reproduce the error!!



ALSO, I should point out that I likely have a bad clock spring, as my horn and cruise doesnt work.

 

i was stranded once, well it was in front of my house in the middle of the road but at that time i was trying to hook up my taoyhauler to go camping. when that happened i didnt go. i didnt want to get stranded. but anyways, that time it took 30 minutes of trying on and off before it started. after that i figured screw it and spent the $500 on a new distributor. and it's been good since then. before i did that though i searched these forums for threads with symptoms like mine and all seemed similiar try doing that for a few minutes.

 

Did you replace the PIP as well?

 

Driving to work today it quit running 4 times. No sputter, just shut right off like turning the key off. Had to restart the truck in nuetral to get start it back up (which it did fine at 50mph lol) Lookin forward to getting KOEO codes later since I cleared them, hopinf the fuel pump code is gone and I only get a PIP code.

So, after reading some other similar posts mainly subfords ones, Im hoping it will be PIP thats giving me issues. This, I was reading from subford but the diagram is a broken link now How to test a PIP Sensor. - Ford Truck Fanatics

Should I just get a new PIP? i've rebuilt distributors before. Get a referb unit (60.00 w/ core) or new one (168.00). I feel no play in the distributer so I think the bushings are in good shape.

 

The link works for me.

 

Your diagram link on that page is broken.