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Cold A/C Mod/Ranger Valve Mod WITH Pictures!

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  #16  
Old 06-19-2010, 12:50 AM
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My super cab does not have one, but I am getting ready to add it. So If I walk into a parts store I can order this part for a CC or Ex and mod mine with it?
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2010, 12:54 AM
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how do you know if it's working right?
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkf View Post
Hmm. They must put them on CC only from the factory. Mine is an 04' SC and doesn't have the valve. Guess its because of the extra cu ft of the CC.
That's interesting. And your theory makes sense. I bet you're right.


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Originally Posted by frozenpoet View Post
how do you know if it's working right?
If you're talking about the factory valve..... I checked it with the engine running and the valve is in one position for all heater/AC settings except "MAX AC". In MAX AC, the valve moves to the other position. You could probably check the add-on valve the same way.
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2010, 11:10 AM
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99 F250 ExtCab

mine doesn't have a valve in any of the spots shown.
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  #20  
Old 09-15-2010, 10:23 AM
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This seems like a cool mod. I'll make sure to do this when I buy a new AC condenser. I poked a hole in mine while doing the Zoodad mod.
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  #21  
Old 01-02-2011, 08:09 PM
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additional information.
It is now high summer down under, +100 temps. I'm finding my 2003 = CC I have to have the max a/c setting + the temp dial set way down at coldest setting, 7 o'clock, to get any sort of cooling to occur.
Just checked the hoses to the heater element - no valve is present on either hoses between their entry into the firewall and the coming out of the ends of the block.

I'd like to do the Ranger Valve Mod to increase my a/c cooling and decrease unnecessary load on the a/c compressor and other cooling components. Making the system more efficient has got to equate to less wear and tear and therefore slightly better MPGs when the a/c is running compared to the stock set up.
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  #22  
Old 04-06-2012, 02:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonathanN View Post
So, I decided to give it a whirl... it was $20 so what the heck!?

Here's the valve (I had picked one off a Ranger, but the diaphragm was bad):



Here's where I'm gonna put it:


Here it is installed:




Down under the passenger's side of the dash is where I "T'd" into the white vacuum line:


A closeup of the whole thing... I managed to save the vacuum lines and a "T" off the the Ranger I got the first valve from so it all looks OEM:


I drilled a hole though the rubber grommet beside the black one that was already in there. It's tricky to find it, but all you have to do is reach behind the inner fender well through the wheel opening and fish around in there for awhile. I found that the valve drops the temperatures about 10*! WOW!!! Not bad for $20... now if I can just get my system cleaned out, I'll be set! PM if you have any questions!
Jon,
In the last picture here, you mentioned you salvaged the vacuum lines and the "T" off of the Ranger. From what specific area did the "T" and the vacuum lines come off of? I might look into buying these from my local dealer if I can figure out where these parts are found and from what year Ranger.

Thanks,
Drake
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  #23  
Old 04-06-2012, 06:53 AM
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Man, it's been so long I can't remember, all I know is the line and T are what were attached to the valve. I would imagine if the parts guy looked it up, he'd be able to see that line and T?
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  #24  
Old 04-08-2012, 11:00 AM
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Hello and great post, I don't use my A/C very often(this truck is the first vehicle I've owned with A/C). I mostly just use the vent, I'm just used to driving with the windows down. But I do notice that when I have the fan going the air blows warmer then the outside temp. and reading this posts about the coolent always flowing through the heater core then it is always heating up the air until I use the A/C.

So can I just install a shut off valve to shut off the flow of coolent to the heater core until I want heat? And will it make my vent temp a bit cooler by not blowing warm air from the heater core? The pic from 1975StroppeBaja posted of the stock valve, is this a good location for the shut off valve? I don't have a vacuum valve on my truck.

Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2012, 11:59 AM
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Shawn,

Under the conditions in which you use yours, I'd say a manual shut-off valve would be the way to go.

Those of us that have ours on and off a lot should probably have something a little more automatic. I've had a vacuum-operated valve in mine for about six years and it works as well today as the day I installed it.

Pop
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2012, 08:56 PM
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Here are the parts I bought from Autozone if anyone wants to just go buy the parts off the shelf.

I built a simple heat sheild for the valve since the diaphragm faces the exhaust. Not sure if it is really needed but it didn't take long and I had the tin laying around.



3' of Vacum Line which is just long enough.


Connectors


F Connector


Valve Installed


Inside connection at the white line.
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  #27  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:10 PM
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Now that's sharp and VERY clean! Real nice, man!
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  #28  
Old 07-08-2012, 09:14 PM
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Can anyone offer more guidance on how to install the mod at the "Inside connection at the white line"? I picked up all of the parts at Autozone and would like to get it done this week, but after re-reading the thread I don't feel like I know how everything gets hooked up. Thanks in advance
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  #29  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:29 PM
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I robbed the line and T off the Ranger I got the first valve off of... made it alot easier, but I'm not sure how you could do it with parts store parts. But just T in with the white line under the dash and you'll be good... if you look at it, you'll see what we mean.
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  #30  
Old 07-10-2012, 01:47 PM
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Im with dgrooman I would like to do the same mod just a little lost as to how it all hooks up....
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