Hmm. They must put them on CC only from the factory. Mine is an 04' SC and doesn't have the valve. Guess its because of the extra cu ft of the CC.
That's interesting. And your theory makes sense. I bet you're right.
Originally Posted by frozenpoet
how do you know if it's working right?
If you're talking about the factory valve..... I checked it with the engine running and the valve is in one position for all heater/AC settings except "MAX AC". In MAX AC, the valve moves to the other position. You could probably check the add-on valve the same way.
__________________ Jason - 2004 F250 XLT Sport CC, 5.4L, 4.10LS, AT, JBA's & SPD y-pipe
This seems like a cool mod. I'll make sure to do this when I buy a new AC condenser. I poked a hole in mine while doing the Zoodad mod.
Bryce - Big BS'er #7 The Green Machine Early 99' 7.3L F-250 PSD_471hp/1024 tq. Mods:35-12.5-18 Cooper Muds_Moto Metal 18"s_3" 4" Lift_4" Exhaust_Turbonetics_Rosewood Stage II SS 160/100s_T500 HPOP_6637 AIS_JWVB_Powerstop Rotors_Ceramic Pads_HPX_NVK4 PCM_Cales Tunes_Autometer Gauges
It is now high summer down under, +100 temps. I'm finding my 2003 = CC I have to have the max a/c setting + the temp dial set way down at coldest setting, 7 o'clock, to get any sort of cooling to occur.
Just checked the hoses to the heater element - no valve is present on either hoses between their entry into the firewall and the coming out of the ends of the block.
I'd like to do the Ranger Valve Mod to increase my a/c cooling and decrease unnecessary load on the a/c compressor and other cooling components. Making the system more efficient has got to equate to less wear and tear and therefore slightly better MPGs when the a/c is running compared to the stock set up.
MODS: Hutch,ICboots,plenum inserts,IH uppies,G2WW,HPx,AIH delete,EBPV delete,hi flow outlet,CCV mod,OCR,Zoodad,6637,4" TB exhaust,JW VB,coolant filter,FRx,'05 HD lights with switch bypass relays,B20 ready fuel system(3 filters).Stratos truck seats,rear head rests,LED running lights, 285-75-16s. Gauges:EGTx2,Boost,Trans temp,Fuel pressure,Eng oil temp, Coolant temp, Edge CS, PHP tuner
NOT done: big oil, big brakes, big turbo. Next Mods? None - I'm done!
Australia: where Mechanics use spanners & Plumbers use wrenches
So, I decided to give it a whirl... it was $20 so what the heck!?
Here's the valve (I had picked one off a Ranger, but the diaphragm was bad):
Here's where I'm gonna put it:
Here it is installed:
Down under the passenger's side of the dash is where I "T'd" into the white vacuum line:
A closeup of the whole thing... I managed to save the vacuum lines and a "T" off the the Ranger I got the first valve from so it all looks OEM:
I drilled a hole though the rubber grommet beside the black one that was already in there. It's tricky to find it, but all you have to do is reach behind the inner fender well through the wheel opening and fish around in there for awhile. I found that the valve drops the temperatures about 10*! WOW!!! Not bad for $20... now if I can just get my system cleaned out, I'll be set! PM if you have any questions!
In the last picture here, you mentioned you salvaged the vacuum lines and the "T" off of the Ranger. From what specific area did the "T" and the vacuum lines come off of? I might look into buying these from my local dealer if I can figure out where these parts are found and from what year Ranger.
Hello and great post, I don't use my A/C very often(this truck is the first vehicle I've owned with A/C). I mostly just use the vent, I'm just used to driving with the windows down. But I do notice that when I have the fan going the air blows warmer then the outside temp. and reading this posts about the coolent always flowing through the heater core then it is always heating up the air until I use the A/C.
So can I just install a shut off valve to shut off the flow of coolent to the heater core until I want heat? And will it make my vent temp a bit cooler by not blowing warm air from the heater core? The pic from 1975StroppeBaja posted of the stock valve, is this a good location for the shut off valve? I don't have a vacuum valve on my truck.
2001 F-250 V10, 93,000miles. Magna Flow exhaust & Cat. Superchips programmer, CAI, Firestone Air Bags, Bridgestone Dueler RVT 265/75/16 Tires.
Under the conditions in which you use yours, I'd say a manual shut-off valve would be the way to go.
Those of us that have ours on and off a lot should probably have something a little more automatic. I've had a vacuum-operated valve in mine for about six years and it works as well today as the day I installed it.
__________________ -Marv- a member ofThe Brotherhood
"Some of us pride ourselves on the money we've spent on our trucks, and some of us on what we have NOT"
2000 F350 Lariat 7.3,A/T,CC,LB,4X4,SRW, CCV, Sonnax/springs, Dahl 100, spin-on trans filter, spin-on hydraulic filter, coolant filter, 6637 & cover, bypass lube oil filter, HPX, Hutch n' harpoon. Email SpringerPop
Can anyone offer more guidance on how to install the mod at the "Inside connection at the white line"? I picked up all of the parts at Autozone and would like to get it done this week, but after re-reading the thread I don't feel like I know how everything gets hooked up. Thanks in advance
I robbed the line and T off the Ranger I got the first valve off of... made it alot easier, but I'm not sure how you could do it with parts store parts. But just T in with the white line under the dash and you'll be good... if you look at it, you'll see what we mean.
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