My 55 has the recirculating heater & defroster and since it's hotter than you know what, I would like to shut-off the water going to my heater but I'll be darned if I can locate the darn shut-off valve. My engine is a 223 6 cyl. I looked at where the 2 hoses are coming from the block but could not find anything. Also, what is the correct amp fuse for the heater switch; 10 amp? Many thanks.

 

You may not have a water shut off valve on your hoses. But you can install one pretty easy. It would go on the intake manifold and connect to the heater hose. It's a simple gate valve you can turn off by hand. Check Sac Vintage Ford for one like this:



http://www.vintageford.com/sect_sear...=Heater- Parts

P/N 08299

15 amps on the heater switch fuse if you are still running 6 Volt. It may even need a 20 if the motor brushes are worn. But try the 15 first.

 

Thank you very much. I will look into getting one; need to determine which hose is the entry that initially goes into the heater. Since the fuse was busted between the switch and power source, I put a jumper wire and turned on the blower motor to see if it worked. It turned slow but after I turned off the switch, the alligator clip was really hot! Doesn't seem right so maybe something else is going on.

 

The hose coming from the intake manifold flows into the heater and should be connected (but may not be) to the lower inlet. The hose connecting the heater to the water pump nipple is the outlet and should be on the top heater tube.

Is this the two position pull switch or a rheostatic turn **** type switch? And, are you still running 6 volt on your truck? It's not unusual for a jumper wire to get hot like that. They are usually only 18 AWG - pretty small to be pulling 15 amps through - especially if you only pulled the switch out to the first detent. And even more if you have converted to 12 volt and still have a 6 volt heater motor and switch - that's a no no!

Like I said, you may end up having to go up to a 20 amp fuse - but try the 15 first.

 

Thanks again Julie. My truck is 6 volt and it's a 2 position switch. I'll try the 15 amp first and see what happens. Come to think of it, I bet you think I'm pretty silly messing with the heater switch in this Florida heat!

 

and until you can find a true valve, you can clamp the hose coming out of the engine closed.. same as the valve does..

Sam

 

Years back I just went to the local parts store (NAPA) and got a manual valve that fit inline in the hose. I split the hose and just put it in with a couple of hose clamps. It could be hooked up to a cable, but I just open it in the fall and close it in the spring. I can't remember what truck it was for, but maybe a Ford from the 60's or early 70's. You probably can find something for $15-$20.

 

I got this at a swap meet; it is Ford P/N C3UZ18495A (Motorcraft YG133)

Fits: 1961/72 F100/1100. Some big trucks thru 1991.
(info courtesy of NumberDummy)

 

Not silly at all. When I was in Florida, I actually had to use the defroster alot because of the humidity!

The valve Ross showed is a nice one too. You just need to run a cable for it to make it remote from the cab (unless you have a four **** set up with a temp control cable already)

 

Thanks to all for the help. I wish I had the Magig Air System but only have 2 **** set-up. Hopefully I will have some time this evening and install the new fuse. I'll let you know how I made out. Thanks again!

 

Your blower motor could be tight. You might take it out and turn the motor by hand to see if it is or not. If it is take it apart and clean it and then lube it. I have had a lot of experience with heaters and if you put current to a tight motor you will burn things up.

 

You can add a third cable for the valve that won't look too cheezy - just get a stock choke cable and mount it under the dash next to the heater controls with an under dash mount metal holder thingy. Like this one I rigged for my fender vent:

 

My 54 V-8 has a shut off valve like the one Julie showed right on the block where the hose is connected. I would think that a 6-cyl would have the same on the block...

 

This is exactly what Ford did with 1965/66 trucks with the Economy Fresh Air heater (that was not cable operated).

C5TZ18495A .. Heater Water Manually Operated Shut-Off Valve~Splices into the input to heater core heater hose (Motorcraft YG130) / Obsolete

Last MSRP: $15.74 / Dealer net cost: $7.87.

JST AUTOMOTIVE in Lebanon TN has ONE - 615-443-3086.

ANTIQUE AUTO SUPPLY in Arlington TX has ONE - 817-275-2381,

PARTS INTERNATIONAL in Farmers Branch TX has FOUR = 888-727-0418.

KINSEL L/M in Beaumont TX has FOUR = 800-816-2894.

GREEN SALES CO. in Cincinnati OH has SEVEN = 800-543-4959.

I know that KINSEL sells obsolete parts at their last MSRP. What the others charge, I dunno.
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The Deluxe Fresh Air heater is cable operated on these trucks, uses the C3UZ18495A heater water valve that is noted and pictured by Ross in post #8.

This valve is still available from Ford. MSRP: $38.46 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $23.08.

PartsGuyEd.com = Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA
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Julie, that emblem on your heater looks just like the one used on 1949/50 Ford passenger cars w/a horn ring.

 

Hi Julie. I tried the 15 amp and it blew in about 2 seconds-I will be trying a 20 amp tomorrow.