What size injectors would be the max before you would need arps? I want 450 range and need advice. Thanks

Bo

 

It's a matter of what turbo and how much boost your building, anything over 40 psi you will need head studs.

 

Like a sxe369 fmw t4 . I'm in love with that turbo it's so damn pretty and flows like a s400 but spools like a 366 . Deep down inside I know I need studs for what I want . But just say I did a 366 . What would be the biggest injectors before I would need studs

 

What Adam said. It pretty much depends on boost. If you want to run 40 psi with large injectors you should stud it. If you run 250/200 injectors but only run 35 psi boost then it's up to you. Most won't run the studs in the 7.3 till 40 or above. We have a lot of head bolts unlike the 6.0 6.4 guys.

 

Yea I know it's not a really common issue for a stock truck but I'm wanting some 238 100 hybrids

 

Since this is a recent thing for me - I can say you have to really want it. They start at about $550 and go up from there - I think they are "on sale" right now at Riffraff Diesel. Once you have the box with yellow tape, you have to man-handle 72 bolts. Break loose and remove 36, and install and torque 36 bolts to 125 ft/lbs. This is all done one bolt out and one in at a time, but you also have to clean the threads. All this while leaning over the fenders - break out the Ben Gay.

40 PSI is the magic number (according to all my sources), but if you are looking behind that particular curtain - valve springs, shims, seals, and pushrods will be in the same box with yellow tape. I didn't have to speculate on the springs, it's a matter of math.

 

To add to what Rich is saying:

You might as well pull the engine out, reseal everything things like the oil pan, front cover, oil cooler, install the fuel system you'll definitely need, Install the studs, and do the valve springs as well.

The 7.3 is a deceptively strong engine that can handle some power, but you do have to upgrade a few things if you're wanting to go with considerably larger sticks. 160/stock, 160/30, 160/100, you can getaway without upgrading too much, but beyond that, I'd do some future proofing.

 

I forgot to mention valve stem seals - and corrected my post.

 

Though you guys are correct you're also forgetting the other half of the equation. Boost is important as we all know but equally important is drive pressure. When boost and DP are too far apart is when things really get sketchy

 

... like with engine braking/breaking.

 

Studs and springs are cheap insurance around 40PSI. Studs and springs can be done in truck without removing the head. We rent the only spring tool worth using on the 7.3.

 

I see what you did there.

To the OP, as others have said you need to take a holistic approach. Look at the weakest link in your system and run accordingly. For instance, my turbo system will run 45psi all day long but I currently have a 6.0 intercooler with plastic end tanks so i have limited boost to 35psi.

 

Someone's bored. This thread is over 4 years old.

 

Well spotted. I had not even noticed that. More coffee for me methinks.

 

I scrolled down too far lol. Luckily it was a pertinent response.