89 f250 lock nuts
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#3
Oh, yeah, let me give you a piece of advice on that. Just like rla said, I went around and around about that one before I finally got it right. My solution was finally to go to a parts store that had the big hub servicing set and rent the whole dang thing instead of just one at a time. There were, I think, six different tools in there and one of them finally fit...and it wasn't the one they kept telling me it was supposed to be.
Then once I had the numbers off the side of the right tool, I got online and ordered one in ebay for $15. Problem solved.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
Then once I had the numbers off the side of the right tool, I got online and ordered one in ebay for $15. Problem solved.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
#4
Not sure where you're having trouble but if it is the Spindle Nut Socket size, the one you need 4 prong, measure straight across inside from prong to prong measures 2 1/4" and the inside dia is 2 1/2" without the prongs.
After you remove the outer locknut note the washer between the inner and outer lock nuts, it has a tab and a series of holes all the way around it, the spindle has a keyway for that tab, the inner nut has a small pin to lock into the holes. You'll need to clear away all grease to see this.
Be sure and line up the tab with the keyway and a hole to the pin when reinstalling that washer or you will just push the pin into the inner nut rendering it useless when you tighten the outer nut and the wheel bearings will come loose or tighten up on you.
Once you have the bearing preload set with the inner nut try and install the washer, if the pin doesn't line up to one of the holes take the washer out and flip it over. Often if one way won't line up the flip side will, if not slightly move the inner nut so it will, then install the outer locking nut.
Because of all the grease this is a fairly easy point to over look for a first timer, simply trying to tighten the two nuts against each other with the washer between with no notice of the little pin, so I thought it was worth pointing out a minute.
After you remove the outer locknut note the washer between the inner and outer lock nuts, it has a tab and a series of holes all the way around it, the spindle has a keyway for that tab, the inner nut has a small pin to lock into the holes. You'll need to clear away all grease to see this.
Be sure and line up the tab with the keyway and a hole to the pin when reinstalling that washer or you will just push the pin into the inner nut rendering it useless when you tighten the outer nut and the wheel bearings will come loose or tighten up on you.
Once you have the bearing preload set with the inner nut try and install the washer, if the pin doesn't line up to one of the holes take the washer out and flip it over. Often if one way won't line up the flip side will, if not slightly move the inner nut so it will, then install the outer locking nut.
Because of all the grease this is a fairly easy point to over look for a first timer, simply trying to tighten the two nuts against each other with the washer between with no notice of the little pin, so I thought it was worth pointing out a minute.
#7
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#9
The easiest way to tell what you have, either the Dana 44IFS, Dana 44 IFS HD, or the Dana 50 are the front springs. The Dana 44 IFS came with coil springs. The other two, front leaf springs. Ford did have an orphen truck for a while with the 302s and 300 6s in their light duty F250 line. Those would have the Mazda 5 spd vs the German ZF that the 460/diesel models utilized. The KD tool number fits the HD type axles with leaf springs. The coil spring models are the light duty.
#10
#11
Besides it's a Ford, so who knows what they might have changed.
Used a stiff piece of wire (about a foot long, bent into a U shape)
and bent it carefully until it matched the outside diameter of the
nut and the distance across the slots, measured those with a
cheap vernier caliper -before- going to the parts store. Took the
vernier caliper with me.
Glad I did, the cheaper socket was a better fit than the name brand.
...like use your head and not rely on others so much or something? ;)
Alvin in AZ
#12
mines needs a 2 7/8" 6prong so i must have a diffrent beast then you guys lol. and i do know its the HD because its got leaf springs and a single shock n the front, no coils. but like i said the only one i've found that looks like itll work was an otc for chevy 11-13000gvw.. perhaps they've mislabeled? or i sum how have a massive chevy front end on my truck? lol
#13
The easiest way to tell what you have, either the Dana 44IFS, Dana 44 IFS HD, or the Dana 50 are the front springs. The Dana 44 IFS came with coil springs. The other two, front leaf springs. Ford did have an orphen truck for a while with the 302s and 300 6s in their light duty F250 line. Those would have the Mazda 5 spd vs the German ZF that the 460/diesel models utilized. The KD tool number fits the HD type axles with leaf springs. The coil spring models are the light duty.
#14
Our BS boy needs a bit of education: The above quote on application is directly copied from the factory 1989 F and E series shop manuals, section 15-34 "Dana Model 44 and 50 Front Drive Axles" Lead in paragraph: "Three types of Dana front drive axles are available for Ford light truck application. The Dana 44-IFS (Independent Front Suspension) is available on Bronco and F-150 (4x4). The Dana 44-IFS-HD is available on F-250 (4x4). The Dana 50-IFS is available on F-250 (4x4) equipped with Heavy Duty Front End Option or F-250 Super Cab Models" The next paragraphs go on the explain differences between the three. This page can be copied if enough doubters or ignorance is out there.
#15
Also interesting is that whether the F-250 was light- or heavy-duty has nothing to do with what front axle the truck has. You will find light-duty F-250's with Dana 50's and heavy duty F-250's with Dana 44's.
If the truck is a supercab or came equipped with a snowfighter package it will have a Dana 50. All others will have a Dana 44 HD.
Ford service publications are not always 100% accurate.