2008 4x4 SuperDuty Wheel/Tire size help
#16
Ace has given some good advice... I too recommend finding a set of nice looking factory wheels (17X7 or 18X8) on eBay or Craigslist. Then mount an agreesive looking tire (LT285/75R17 E or LT295/70R18 E). The narrow width (11.30" or 11.77") will keep you MPG's up and the heigth (33.86" or 34.41") will make the truck look more agressive. You shouldn't need a leveling kit with either of these combinations.
#17
If you want wide I myself would go with a 305 or 315. If you have time drop by a tire store and ask if they have any in stock you could look at to get a better idea of what you want. If you go with the 18,s or 20's there is less choices for a tire rated for your truck and they cost alot more. Here are some sizes you could ask about 305/70/17, 305/65/18, 305/55/20. You need an e-rated tire or at least a d-rated would be fine if your not hauling or towing heavy loads. All of these sizes you could put on without doing any mods and should not make a huge differance except for looks.
I understand now where you're coming from. It's tough, because there is a line between performance and the mods.
Cost goes way up with taller wheels, meaning there are fewer tires to choose from and they are higher in price. Taller tires will change the performance and mileage. Taller wheels will change the ride for a given tire height (less sidewall usually will provide a stiffer ride).
Anyway, what I would suggest, is figuring out what you want or a couple scenarios and putting it all down on paper. Pick you wheels, pick your tires, pick whether you need a leveling kit and write out a little spreadsheet or whatever with prices and see too if one option then gets nixed (i.e., once you start pricing tires for 20" wheels, or see what tires are and aren't available you may not consider 20" wheels at all).
What will be painful is if you decide on a wheel for example and then find out the tires are $100 each more than a size for a different wheel (i.e., 20" tall or 10" wide or whatever you decide). Or if you have to put a leveling kit on with one selection and didn't realize it until after you bought the tires.
I guess I'm being cheap, but I'd suggest 18x8 or 20x8 Ford factory take off wheels and a 285 or 305 tire, but I'd find out if the 20" or the 18" is cheaper.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Cost goes way up with taller wheels, meaning there are fewer tires to choose from and they are higher in price. Taller tires will change the performance and mileage. Taller wheels will change the ride for a given tire height (less sidewall usually will provide a stiffer ride).
Anyway, what I would suggest, is figuring out what you want or a couple scenarios and putting it all down on paper. Pick you wheels, pick your tires, pick whether you need a leveling kit and write out a little spreadsheet or whatever with prices and see too if one option then gets nixed (i.e., once you start pricing tires for 20" wheels, or see what tires are and aren't available you may not consider 20" wheels at all).
What will be painful is if you decide on a wheel for example and then find out the tires are $100 each more than a size for a different wheel (i.e., 20" tall or 10" wide or whatever you decide). Or if you have to put a leveling kit on with one selection and didn't realize it until after you bought the tires.
I guess I'm being cheap, but I'd suggest 18x8 or 20x8 Ford factory take off wheels and a 285 or 305 tire, but I'd find out if the 20" or the 18" is cheaper.
Good luck in whatever you decide.
Though I must say in addition to struggling with what I mentioned above, I'm struggling technically as well because I don't know what fits and what requires a lift. If I run 20's I'd need either smaller height tires or a lift right? At what width does tire rubbing become a problem? Should I be concerned about the offset of the wheel? Aaahhhh so many questions!
I should add that money is not a limiting factor. That's not to say I have plenty to go around, it's just that I'm coming from sports car world where my wheels and tires cost about $6000. I really hope to spend a lot less on my truck, all I'm trying to convey is that I understand that you have to pay a decent amount when putting on nice wheels and tires.
Ace has given some good advice... I too recommend finding a set of nice looking factory wheels (17X7 or 18X8) on eBay or Craigslist. Then mount an agreesive looking tire (LT285/75R17 E or LT295/70R18 E). The narrow width (11.30" or 11.77") will keep you MPG's up and the heigth (33.86" or 34.41") will make the truck look more agressive. You shouldn't need a leveling kit with either of these combinations.
#18
Here is a post I wrote a few weeks ago.......
"I dont know if you are interested in changing rim size, but I got rid of my stock 17" 265/17 BFG's (that absolutely sucked in the winter) and went with pro comp 18x9.5 wheels and pro comp extreme all terrains in 325/60R18E. They are actually 33" tall but are 13" wide; they look awesome and dont rub at all.
When I was pulling my 33 foot 8500lb travel trailer on the stock wheels and tires it did ok, you could tell that that big sidewall got a little squirrley at times and it was terrible to pull with when it was wet. With the new wheels and tires it was a HUGE difference. Just driving around empty (I keep a toolbox in the bed that has about 200lbs in it) it handles and rides so much better, doesnt feel so harsh going over bumps. When I have my camper on it is like driving a diferent truck. There is no more vague steering and it rides very well. I feel like I have a lot more control over the trailer.
I never in my life would have ever thought that just a wheel and tire change would make such a difference but it did. I dont have very many miles on them, but i have talked to a few other people that have owned the same tires and they all say the same thing- if you keep them rotated they will wear like steel. My neighbor just replaced his 325/65R18's (35x13.50) from his 3500HD chevy and they had 61000 miles on them! He pulls a 33 foot fifth wheel toy hauler every weekend and those tires looked good. That was the coffin nail for me buying a set.
I am extremely happy with mine, how they behave AND they look really tough. AND they come with a 40000 mile warranty........ "
Well, I have about 6000 miles on them now with about 1500 of that pulling my camper and they are wearing VERY well. I couldnt be more pleased with them. They made the truck so much more fun to drive, and the height is only 33.2" and by my math it only changes the spedo by 3.7MPH @55mph.
Whatever you do DONT go with a D rated tire- you will regret it. The biggest reason is there is no way around the TPMS, and the D's wont hold enough pressure to keep the alarm from going off, and they WILL wear prematurely if you are towing. All I can say is look into the procomp extreme all terrains. I think you may find what you are looking for.
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"I dont know if you are interested in changing rim size, but I got rid of my stock 17" 265/17 BFG's (that absolutely sucked in the winter) and went with pro comp 18x9.5 wheels and pro comp extreme all terrains in 325/60R18E. They are actually 33" tall but are 13" wide; they look awesome and dont rub at all.
When I was pulling my 33 foot 8500lb travel trailer on the stock wheels and tires it did ok, you could tell that that big sidewall got a little squirrley at times and it was terrible to pull with when it was wet. With the new wheels and tires it was a HUGE difference. Just driving around empty (I keep a toolbox in the bed that has about 200lbs in it) it handles and rides so much better, doesnt feel so harsh going over bumps. When I have my camper on it is like driving a diferent truck. There is no more vague steering and it rides very well. I feel like I have a lot more control over the trailer.
I never in my life would have ever thought that just a wheel and tire change would make such a difference but it did. I dont have very many miles on them, but i have talked to a few other people that have owned the same tires and they all say the same thing- if you keep them rotated they will wear like steel. My neighbor just replaced his 325/65R18's (35x13.50) from his 3500HD chevy and they had 61000 miles on them! He pulls a 33 foot fifth wheel toy hauler every weekend and those tires looked good. That was the coffin nail for me buying a set.
I am extremely happy with mine, how they behave AND they look really tough. AND they come with a 40000 mile warranty........ "
Well, I have about 6000 miles on them now with about 1500 of that pulling my camper and they are wearing VERY well. I couldnt be more pleased with them. They made the truck so much more fun to drive, and the height is only 33.2" and by my math it only changes the spedo by 3.7MPH @55mph.
Whatever you do DONT go with a D rated tire- you will regret it. The biggest reason is there is no way around the TPMS, and the D's wont hold enough pressure to keep the alarm from going off, and they WILL wear prematurely if you are towing. All I can say is look into the procomp extreme all terrains. I think you may find what you are looking for.
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#19
One thing to consider is 35x12.5x?? fit on a stock rig. It may not be the nicest looking or it may rub when twisted up offroad, but it'll fit. So, the wheel size doesn't matter that much. A 35" tire is a 35" tire on a 15" wheel or a 16" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, if you like the low-profile look of a 35" tire on a 20" wheel, GO FOR IT. I recently saw that on a F350 with leveling kit (meaning leveling kit on the front and F350 rear spring block) and it was very good looking. Rubbing though, it doesn't matter if it's a 17" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, figure out what looks good to you and go for it. I think a 35x12.5x20 looks really good with a leveling kit and F350 rear block.
Of course the "sucky" mileage will suck a little more, but if you can afford it, GO FOR IT.
Of course the "sucky" mileage will suck a little more, but if you can afford it, GO FOR IT.
#20
Here is a post I wrote a few weeks ago.......
"I dont know if you are interested in changing rim size, but I got rid of my stock 17" 265/17 BFG's (that absolutely sucked in the winter) and went with pro comp 18x9.5 wheels and pro comp extreme all terrains in 325/60R18E. They are actually 33" tall but are 13" wide; they look awesome and dont rub at all.
When I was pulling my 33 foot 8500lb travel trailer on the stock wheels and tires it did ok, you could tell that that big sidewall got a little squirrley at times and it was terrible to pull with when it was wet. With the new wheels and tires it was a HUGE difference. Just driving around empty (I keep a toolbox in the bed that has about 200lbs in it) it handles and rides so much better, doesnt feel so harsh going over bumps. When I have my camper on it is like driving a diferent truck. There is no more vague steering and it rides very well. I feel like I have a lot more control over the trailer.
I never in my life would have ever thought that just a wheel and tire change would make such a difference but it did. I dont have very many miles on them, but i have talked to a few other people that have owned the same tires and they all say the same thing- if you keep them rotated they will wear like steel. My neighbor just replaced his 325/65R18's (35x13.50) from his 3500HD chevy and they had 61000 miles on them! He pulls a 33 foot fifth wheel toy hauler every weekend and those tires looked good. That was the coffin nail for me buying a set.
I am extremely happy with mine, how they behave AND they look really tough. AND they come with a 40000 mile warranty........ "
Well, I have about 6000 miles on them now with about 1500 of that pulling my camper and they are wearing VERY well. I couldnt be more pleased with them. They made the truck so much more fun to drive, and the height is only 33.2" and by my math it only changes the spedo by 3.7MPH @55mph.
Whatever you do DONT go with a D rated tire- you will regret it. The biggest reason is there is no way around the TPMS, and the D's wont hold enough pressure to keep the alarm from going off, and they WILL wear prematurely if you are towing. All I can say is look into the procomp extreme all terrains. I think you may find what you are looking for.
<!-- / message -->
"I dont know if you are interested in changing rim size, but I got rid of my stock 17" 265/17 BFG's (that absolutely sucked in the winter) and went with pro comp 18x9.5 wheels and pro comp extreme all terrains in 325/60R18E. They are actually 33" tall but are 13" wide; they look awesome and dont rub at all.
When I was pulling my 33 foot 8500lb travel trailer on the stock wheels and tires it did ok, you could tell that that big sidewall got a little squirrley at times and it was terrible to pull with when it was wet. With the new wheels and tires it was a HUGE difference. Just driving around empty (I keep a toolbox in the bed that has about 200lbs in it) it handles and rides so much better, doesnt feel so harsh going over bumps. When I have my camper on it is like driving a diferent truck. There is no more vague steering and it rides very well. I feel like I have a lot more control over the trailer.
I never in my life would have ever thought that just a wheel and tire change would make such a difference but it did. I dont have very many miles on them, but i have talked to a few other people that have owned the same tires and they all say the same thing- if you keep them rotated they will wear like steel. My neighbor just replaced his 325/65R18's (35x13.50) from his 3500HD chevy and they had 61000 miles on them! He pulls a 33 foot fifth wheel toy hauler every weekend and those tires looked good. That was the coffin nail for me buying a set.
I am extremely happy with mine, how they behave AND they look really tough. AND they come with a 40000 mile warranty........ "
Well, I have about 6000 miles on them now with about 1500 of that pulling my camper and they are wearing VERY well. I couldnt be more pleased with them. They made the truck so much more fun to drive, and the height is only 33.2" and by my math it only changes the spedo by 3.7MPH @55mph.
Whatever you do DONT go with a D rated tire- you will regret it. The biggest reason is there is no way around the TPMS, and the D's wont hold enough pressure to keep the alarm from going off, and they WILL wear prematurely if you are towing. All I can say is look into the procomp extreme all terrains. I think you may find what you are looking for.
<!-- / message -->
#21
One thing to consider is 35x12.5x?? fit on a stock rig. It may not be the nicest looking or it may rub when twisted up offroad, but it'll fit. So, the wheel size doesn't matter that much. A 35" tire is a 35" tire on a 15" wheel or a 16" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, if you like the low-profile look of a 35" tire on a 20" wheel, GO FOR IT. I recently saw that on a F350 with leveling kit (meaning leveling kit on the front and F350 rear spring block) and it was very good looking. Rubbing though, it doesn't matter if it's a 17" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, figure out what looks good to you and go for it. I think a 35x12.5x20 looks really good with a leveling kit and F350 rear block.
Of course the "sucky" mileage will suck a little more, but if you can afford it, GO FOR IT.
Of course the "sucky" mileage will suck a little more, but if you can afford it, GO FOR IT.
#22
The size of the tire doesn't change. If you can fit a 35" tire, you can fit a 35" tire regardless of whether it's a 17" or a 18" or a 20". So, you can look for a 35" or less tall tire, approximately 12.5" wide, depending on the offset of the wheel. Everyone likes something different and I like a narrower tire, so I'd look for a 33.5" - 35" tall tire that's about 11" wide.
#23
#24
The size of the tire doesn't change. If you can fit a 35" tire, you can fit a 35" tire regardless of whether it's a 17" or a 18" or a 20". So, you can look for a 35" or less tall tire, approximately 12.5" wide, depending on the offset of the wheel. Everyone likes something different and I like a narrower tire, so I'd look for a 33.5" - 35" tall tire that's about 11" wide.
I'd prefer to stick with no offset which I'm assuming is how it comes from the factory. Does that seem wise or does it really not matter?
btw...I really appreciate that you keep coming back to this thread and helping my dumb ***!!
#25
'08 F250 w/35X12.5R-17's on Helo 17X9 wheels - no lift!
I have an '08 F250 with 35X12.5R-17 Toyo Open Country MT's on Helo HE842 17X9 wheels and ran with no lift for almost a year!
I've since added a 2.5" leveling kit so I can move up to 37's when the 35's wear out. I had no major problem's - when I backed out of my uphill driveway, the tires would slightly rub the plastic inner well at full lock left. I heated and bent the plastic rearward on both sides and it was fine after that. Hope this helps...
I've since added a 2.5" leveling kit so I can move up to 37's when the 35's wear out. I had no major problem's - when I backed out of my uphill driveway, the tires would slightly rub the plastic inner well at full lock left. I heated and bent the plastic rearward on both sides and it was fine after that. Hope this helps...
#26
Jim's truck is a great example. So if you think it'd look a little better with just a little lift, you could do the F350 rear blocks and leveling kit.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a levleing kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a levleing kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
#27
Jim's truck is a great example. So if you think it'd look a little better with just a little lift, you could do the F350 rear blocks and leveling kit.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a leveling kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a leveling kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
The 2.5" works out great - 2.5" ReadyLift Kit with 2.5" coil spring spacers in the front and 4" blocks replacing the factory blocks in the back. Now the 37's will fit when I need them and the truck is still stable on the beach.
#28
Thanks Ace... I waited because I wasn't sure how much lift I could get away with hauling my slide-in camper over some pretty narrow and off-camber beach trails. I really didn't want to end up on my roof!
The 2.5" works out great - 2.5" ReadyLift Kit with 2.5" coil spring spacers in the front and 4" blocks replacing the factory blocks in the back. Now the 37's will fit when I need them and the truck is still stable on the beach.
The 2.5" works out great - 2.5" ReadyLift Kit with 2.5" coil spring spacers in the front and 4" blocks replacing the factory blocks in the back. Now the 37's will fit when I need them and the truck is still stable on the beach.
#29
Jim's truck is a great example. So if you think it'd look a little better with just a little lift, you could do the F350 rear blocks and leveling kit.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a levleing kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a levleing kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.
#30
Not too bad...
The front was amazingly easy from what I expected - just did one side at a time and it went smoothly!