Ace has given some good advice... I too recommend finding a set of nice looking factory wheels (17X7 or 18X8) on eBay or Craigslist. Then mount an agreesive looking tire (LT285/75R17 E or LT295/70R18 E). The narrow width (11.30" or 11.77") will keep you MPG's up and the heigth (33.86" or 34.41") will make the truck look more agressive. You shouldn't need a leveling kit with either of these combinations.

 

That is always a consideration, I will put wheel locks on and hope for the best. I ran very nice aftermarket wheels on my G35 for 5 years without problems, fingers crossed!

I would probably want to stick with an e-rated tire. I won't be pulling very much weight, 6000lbs tops, however I will have probably close to 1000lbs on the the tongue.

Yes, that is my dilemma, I'm trying to find the line between show and go. I want to improve my trucks looks but not dramatically affect it's towing performance, reliability and fuel efficiency. Granted the latter isn't as big of deal because simply put, the V10 is an absolute gas hog no matter what, I've accepted that.

Though I must say in addition to struggling with what I mentioned above, I'm struggling technically as well because I don't know what fits and what requires a lift. If I run 20's I'd need either smaller height tires or a lift right? At what width does tire rubbing become a problem? Should I be concerned about the offset of the wheel? Aaahhhh so many questions!

I should add that money is not a limiting factor. That's not to say I have plenty to go around, it's just that I'm coming from sports car world where my wheels and tires cost about $6000. I really hope to spend a lot less on my truck, all I'm trying to convey is that I understand that you have to pay a decent amount when putting on nice wheels and tires.

That is definitely an option, the Harley Davidson wheels look pretty nice. I'm still not sure on the narrow width though, the ones I have now look a little weird. lol....reminds me of all those dudes in the gym with huge upper bodies and stick legs, just doesn't look right!

 

Here is a post I wrote a few weeks ago.......


"I dont know if you are interested in changing rim size, but I got rid of my stock 17" 265/17 BFG's (that absolutely sucked in the winter) and went with pro comp 18x9.5 wheels and pro comp extreme all terrains in 325/60R18E. They are actually 33" tall but are 13" wide; they look awesome and dont rub at all.

When I was pulling my 33 foot 8500lb travel trailer on the stock wheels and tires it did ok, you could tell that that big sidewall got a little squirrley at times and it was terrible to pull with when it was wet. With the new wheels and tires it was a HUGE difference. Just driving around empty (I keep a toolbox in the bed that has about 200lbs in it) it handles and rides so much better, doesnt feel so harsh going over bumps. When I have my camper on it is like driving a diferent truck. There is no more vague steering and it rides very well. I feel like I have a lot more control over the trailer.

I never in my life would have ever thought that just a wheel and tire change would make such a difference but it did. I dont have very many miles on them, but i have talked to a few other people that have owned the same tires and they all say the same thing- if you keep them rotated they will wear like steel. My neighbor just replaced his 325/65R18's (35x13.50) from his 3500HD chevy and they had 61000 miles on them! He pulls a 33 foot fifth wheel toy hauler every weekend and those tires looked good. That was the coffin nail for me buying a set.

I am extremely happy with mine, how they behave AND they look really tough. AND they come with a 40000 mile warranty........ "

Well, I have about 6000 miles on them now with about 1500 of that pulling my camper and they are wearing VERY well. I couldnt be more pleased with them. They made the truck so much more fun to drive, and the height is only 33.2" and by my math it only changes the spedo by 3.7MPH @55mph.

Whatever you do DONT go with a D rated tire- you will regret it. The biggest reason is there is no way around the TPMS, and the D's wont hold enough pressure to keep the alarm from going off, and they WILL wear prematurely if you are towing. All I can say is look into the procomp extreme all terrains. I think you may find what you are looking for.
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One thing to consider is 35x12.5x?? fit on a stock rig. It may not be the nicest looking or it may rub when twisted up offroad, but it'll fit. So, the wheel size doesn't matter that much. A 35" tire is a 35" tire on a 15" wheel or a 16" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, if you like the low-profile look of a 35" tire on a 20" wheel, GO FOR IT. I recently saw that on a F350 with leveling kit (meaning leveling kit on the front and F350 rear spring block) and it was very good looking. Rubbing though, it doesn't matter if it's a 17" wheel or a 20" wheel. So, figure out what looks good to you and go for it. I think a 35x12.5x20 looks really good with a leveling kit and F350 rear block.

Of course the "sucky" mileage will suck a little more, but if you can afford it, GO FOR IT.

 

Do you have any pics?!

 

The more I think about it, I think I'd prefer an 18" wheel. I think 20's would be overkill unless you put a really big tire on them which would in turn require a lift. I don't prefer the low profile look on trucks. So if I went 18's, what the biggest tire I could put on there without rubbing?

 

The size of the tire doesn't change. If you can fit a 35" tire, you can fit a 35" tire regardless of whether it's a 17" or a 18" or a 20". So, you can look for a 35" or less tall tire, approximately 12.5" wide, depending on the offset of the wheel. Everyone likes something different and I like a narrower tire, so I'd look for a 33.5" - 35" tall tire that's about 11" wide.

 

Unfortunatley I am not in the state right now so I cant take any pics and I dont have any on my laptop here, but Ill check and see if my wife has any.

 

Ah ok, I get it. So whatever wheel/tire combination I choose, the overall diameter of the tire needs to be 35" or smaller and no wider than 12.5" (that's a 315 right?).

I'd prefer to stick with no offset which I'm assuming is how it comes from the factory. Does that seem wise or does it really not matter?

btw...I really appreciate that you keep coming back to this thread and helping my dumb ***!!

 

I have an '08 F250 with 35X12.5R-17 Toyo Open Country MT's on Helo HE842 17X9 wheels and ran with no lift for almost a year!



I've since added a 2.5" leveling kit so I can move up to 37's when the 35's wear out. I had no major problem's - when I backed out of my uphill driveway, the tires would slightly rub the plastic inner well at full lock left. I heated and bent the plastic rearward on both sides and it was fine after that. Hope this helps...

 

Jim's truck is a great example. So if you think it'd look a little better with just a little lift, you could do the F350 rear blocks and leveling kit.

Look for posts from Seminaryranger too. He ran without a lift for a while and then did a levleing kit and blocks (his leveling kit was a spring kit, so it was basically a 2" spring lift). Seminary's was a more expensive, but probably better, way to get his 35" on there and performing the way he wanted.

 

Thanks Ace... I waited because I wasn't sure how much lift I could get away with hauling my slide-in camper over some pretty narrow and off-camber beach trails. I really didn't want to end up on my roof!



The 2.5" works out great - 2.5" ReadyLift Kit with 2.5" coil spring spacers in the front and 4" blocks replacing the factory blocks in the back. Now the 37's will fit when I need them and the truck is still stable on the beach.

 

I like the look you have right there. Did you install the lift yourself? I've never done any suspension work on a vehicle, completely new territory!

 

I just checked out Seminaryranger's ride and I do like how it looks. I'd probably like the tires a little wider but the height is ok with me.

 

I did install it myself but at my buddy's Off-Road shop - if I needed advice or another pair of hands, one of them was able to help. The only major issue I had was with the rear blocks - as I lifted the stock blocks out of the axle plate, the axle shifted forward about 6 inches and was a bear to pull back into position. A "come-a-long" would probably have helped - I used a 3 foot 2X4 as a lever to get mine back!

The front was amazingly easy from what I expected - just did one side at a time and it went smoothly!