I have a massive amount of lateral runout on my rotors both sides and I have cleaned all surfaces. It’s a DRW so I have the hub extenders too. The weird thing is I have less in the extender than the rotor.





Any thoughts on what is causing so much lateral runout? You would think I have heavy debris between the rotor and hub but I cleaned them real well with an abrasive paint/rust stripper. Every surface is very clean. The wheel hubs spin nice and smooth too. My rotors were just warped and I had them turned so maybe it really threw it out of wack?

thanks

 

Try changing the orientation of the rotor on the hub and see if it changes, you might be stacking the run out .

 

Thanks, I’ll give that a shot in the morning. I also noticed now when I spin the tire I can see it move up and down as if it’s not centered on the hub somehow. I have all kinds of problems apparently.. I have the flat style oem lug nuts, is it possible to use the acorn style or is there another way to center the wheel? It’s a good amount of “hop” when the wheel is spinning and I’m sure that’s attributing to the vibrations I’ve been feeling as well.

 

I believe our trucks are hub centric and not lug centric so acorn lugs aren't used. After market rims that have a different hub bore than stock would need some extra love.

 

Yep you’re right, I wasn’t quick enough to post back after I found a post on that. With them being hub centric would that mean the wheel “hop” that I have is showing that the wheel hub itself is the problem?

 

I guess I'm not clear on what you are describing, but sounds like it could be wheels, tires, or bearings. I am not familiar with duallies so don't know if there are other components at play.

Are you getting vibration at speed or pulsing brake pedal when braking?

I almost always replace pads and rotors together.

 

The best way for me to describe it is it’s as if the wheel was not centered on the hub. I tried to get it on a video but it’s hard to hold the camera and do that and I couldn’t see it in the video.

When I turned the warped rotors I put new pads on also.

Yes I’ve got multiple vibrations right now in driveline (I’ve narrowed it down with help on this forum to the bushing in the transfer case tail housing), and in the front both at speeds and a pulsing brake pedal.

I can feel the pulsing brake pedal more at lower speeds. Vibrations don’t always get worse with more speed and seems almost intermittent which is why I thought maybe hubs. They’re only a couple years old and roughly 30k miles but my thought was that maybe certain angle in the road or crown causes the hub to “correct” itself and then the vibration goes away temporarily. I don’t think anything else up front could cause the intermittent vibration regardless of speed besides that? But I really don’t know..

 

Yeah, you'll get a bouncing brake pedal at low speeds and a low frequency shudder that follows wheel speed at highway speeds if you don't get all of that nice and flat. That issue right there gave me the most headaches on brake jobs. Learned to choose carefully which brands to purchase and install for the customers.

 

In my experience once a rotor is warped it's time for new ones, I've had warped rotors turned and they never worked out.

As for the vibrations hows your tires and wheels? I've had tires break a cord and wasn't visible till I had them balance on the balance machine then you could see them move up and down.

 

Yes on the rotors, just get new ones. And the vehicle will be doing a little sashay at about 15-20 mph if the tires are not perfectly round.

 

Thanks for the replies. Well I’ve rotated the rotor a few different times and the lateral runout is following the rotor so I’d say I’ll have to bite the bullet and go get new rotors. They charge $60 for a pair of rotors to get turned at oreileys now.. I used to get them turned for $10 a rotor. Oh well at least I would say this has to be the issue. I’ve cleaned the rotor multiple times in that spot this morning and checked again with no luck.

since I’ve been tracking the front end vibration, I’ve installed new tie rod ends (1 was bad), spicer ball joints (1 bad), brand new tires mounted and balanced (old ones were cupped), and I have new calipers nice and greased. Gear box is a year old, wheel hubs a couple years, and I aligned it. I don’t think there’s any other bases to cover at this point besides these rotors. I do have a partially seized u joint in the front drivers side wheel but the lockouts are manual lockouts and are free.

 

The term I was looking for but couldn’t think of is radial runout.

 

partially seized u joint will do weird steering things as it wont allow the axle to spin and your spider gears will wear out in the diff as the other side spins a bit even if unlocked

 

There is a shim that can correct some of the lateral run-out. You can find them at Rock Auto.

 

Since your truck is 4x4 I highly recommend replacing the track bar or at least the bushing if possible if not already, my trucks track bar was shot and allowed the suspension to do what ever it wanted on ruts on the road, and even caused some major clanking when turning or hitting minor bumps.