I would like to hear from those that have used the Eastwood products in their restoration. I am back to my 51 F1 after a 6 months layoff. I plan to use their Rust Converter followed by the Rust Encapsulator, than Extreme Chassis Black. This will be used on the bottom of the cab, underside of the fenders, running boards and the various sheet metal around the engine compartment. The instructions on the Rust Converter say to wire brush or sand the rust. I will be sand blasting with relatively low pressure just to remove the heavy rust, not get to a white metal. My question is, is this technique good enough for the Rust Converter to work?

I took a lot of pictures when I disassembled the truck. Probably still will not have enough. Is there a source for the detailed assembly of the truck's sheet metal.

Thanks. HouBill, Houston, Tx

 

I used Eastwoods pruducts as you mentioned for the frame of my panel. It won't be seeing the road any time soon. I started with a sandblasted frame used acetone as a wash and then applied rust converter, encapsulator and extreme chassy black. I find that it scatches easily and have my doubts that it will stand up. Last year I did some work on my 99 chev pickup and since I had the box off I wire brushed the frame and proceded with the same application of the products, this spring shows for certain that the products don't work.

 

As a final coat of protection I would recommend Chassis Saver (made by Magnet Paints). It is an industrial type sealer. I used it on the underside of cab and on the inside floor. I plan on using it on the underside of front fenders as well. It appears to be very durable stuff. I recommend it over Por15 and Rust Bullet.

 

I have been using rust converters for over twenty years, the chemical reaction doesn't take place if you remove all the rust. If you are sand blasting you are wasting your time and money with converters.Just prime and paint. Now if you can't get in spots or don't want to remove all the rust there is no better products to use.
Bob

 

On my daily driver pickup I used as directed of the Eastwood product. I descaled the heavy rust off and then wire wheeled. There was still rust on the frame, Eastwoods product just plainly failed. I'd use one of the other products the next time as I'm sure there are some that work.

 

I used the products on the 1/4 panel on my dad's van ( it was rusty ). I just wanted to give it a little protection for the winter. It did scratch easily and had rust coming thru in just a couple weeks.

I spent a lot of money on these products so I could do the entire chassis on my 54 project but now I'm not going to use them on it. I'm going to go with what I wanted to from the beginning. I'm going to use the POR-15 products.

 

I don't think much of the "converters", but used the Encapsulator on the frame after hand wirebrushing. Where I could I used their Chassis Black on top of that. Not like NM is the Rust Capital of the world, but it looks great and is tough, no problems whatsoever. The Chassis Black is absolutely the topcoat for engine compartment stuff like inner fenders, tough and "looks right".

 

I have used and think highly of their exhaust brush on paint. I used it on the exhaust manifolds on a 292 Y-block and ran it over a year and it never burned off. Also bought their model of a primer gun and it does a great job. Used R&M Diamont DP-20 primer and it feels like satin on the truck. So I give them a thumbs up on their products so far.

 

I used Eastwood's rust encapsulator and covered it with chassis black 10 years ago on my 48 F1. It has been a daily driver for 8 of those years and the stuff is still there doing it's job.

Applied like the directions tell you, its great stuff in my opinion.