suggestions on a nice [electrical] fuel gauge for $40?

I just bought a $20 mechanical gauge from harbor freight (more or less as a temp permenant to keep tabs on my pressure regulator modification) but have yet to install it. the plumbing parts cost close to $40.... so i'm in $60 total. I might as well go electric and keep the sucker perm. monuted in the cab along side my other gauges.

 

I like ProSport gauges. This gauge is what I am running & it comes with the sensor.

Fuel Pressure Gauge (Electric) w/sensor - Super Blue 52mm
Rog

 

Unless you use a fuel separator. Then you can mount a mech-pressure valve in the cab. Fuel to the separator box and glycol into the cab. I wish I'd had used an electric, though. It looks like it would've been easier and more hose connections gives more opportunity for leaking.

Meh, next time.

 

What are you guys using for a gauge pod?

 

Autometer A-Pillar Pod

An Autometer should work fine. I think that's the one I got.

 

once i get my gauges moved, I'll have my 2 pod pillar to sell.

 

Well the pressure gauge I got coming is electrical and who makes the 4 gauge pillar pod for our trucks? Cause thats probably what I will use. Cause now all I need to get ist eh tranny temp and EGT. Then once I got all this I am saving for a chip WOOT WOOT!

 

I've seen four-gauge pods for Super Duty trucks, but not OBS. You may consider a two-in-one combined gauge and stick with the three pod. Otherwise you could mount gauges elsewhere.

 

There is a company that makes them now for the obs for $70.

 

When installing an electric sending unit for fuel pressure gauge can a person just take out the Schrader valve and put sending unit there or does the valve need to be there just wondering

 

Yes, replace the valve with the sender and then realize that this thread is mighty old.

 

I used a brass compression fitting to replace the Shrader valve on the fuel bowl. From this fitting, I installed a 1/16" nylon hose normally used for oil pressure gauges. I ran the hose to the firewall, where I installed an L-shaped bracket to hold a needle valve to eliminate the pulsations of the factory fuel pump. The hose provides fuel under pressure to the needle valve. On the other side of the needle valve I installed an electric fuel pressure gauge sending unit. From the sender, electric wires provide fuel pressure reading to a gauge in the cabin.

After installing the setup, I closed-off the needle valve and started the engine. Then, I very slowly opened the valve to the point where the fuel pressure is steady and void of the hammer-effect pulsations so common with a mechanical fuel pump like the OBS's.

A specialized "snubber" device also can be used in place of the needle valve to eliminate the fuel pressure pulsations. Although snubber devices are not adjustable, some folks have luck using them.

While the fuel pressure gauge can be used without a needle valve or snubber, doing so usually makes the gauge very difficult to read due to the rapid needle fluctuations, and often the life of the gauge is significantly shortened by the stress of the hammer effects.

Of course, folks who install an electric fuel pump don't have to worry about fuel pressure pulsations, because electric pumps generally don't produce a "hammer" effect,

 

Thanks I took out the valve and screw in the sending unit and works good at an idle says I am getting 60 psi

 

If you want to keep the schraeder valve, can you mount an electric gauge send unit on an adapter?

 

See pic in post #12; a simple plumbing tee will allow you to retain the schrader valve.