Hello all! New here with a question which is probably the norm.

I just got a 97 Ford E-150 conversion van with the 4.6 liter V8. Been having trouble with the temperature switches and sensors. Trying to figure out where they all are on this thing. I found the one on the passenger side front of the manifold that goes to the gauge and replaced it. I also found the Cylinder head temperature switch behind the alternator and think I have found a replacement for this that I will be picking up today, I have been looking all over for a replacement and so far without going directly to the ford dealership O'Reily seems to have what I need with part Number WT5059. Advanced and AutoZone didn't know what I was talking about.

In my quest for that sensor I was sold another temperature sensor with a round 2 pin connector on top with the bottom being shaped like a brass cone. I have no idea where this thing goes on my van and any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

That is a temp sensor, if I recall...

I don't know where it goes --- you need alldata or something like that... or the Ford parts counter can show you.

Here is a thought.. while you are at it.. why not replace most of the sensors (including the O2 sensor) and check the wiring for bad contacts, etc. and grease / clean corrosion off them.

See thread below.

 

Thanks for the help, but I think I figured out the problem. I don't think it is electrical at this point.

Doing some searches on the forum has pointed me towards the head gasket. It appears if a small leak between a cylinder and the water jacket exists it pumps some hydro carbons into the cooling system. Due to the position of the temperature switch I have replaced being on the top of the block, when the mechanical T-stat opens initially the hydrocarbons form a pocket at the top of the block around this sensor. Without direct contact with the actual water this sensor shoots up high and then eventually water flow carries the hydro carbons or air pocket away and back to the reclaimer tank. This makes the temp switch shoot back to its normal level. Also I loose a little bit of coolant daily which should not happen in a completely sealed system like this.

To verify this I am having the garage do a leak down test on the cylinders. Have to make sure they remove the cap from the reclaimer tank. Not sure if they should drain the water system or not also to check. If this is the issue a new head gasket should fix it. I was thinking about just retorqueing the heads and seeing if the problem went away, but I am not sure if it is a good idea to restretch head bolts on this design. Some head bolts are stretch once only design. After that they loose some of their tensil strength.

 

Just adding a little up date here.

Ford garage did a leak down test and confirmed a leak between cylinder and water system. I still need to ask which cylinder for tracking purposes in the future.

They are starting to tear it down with plans to install a new head gasket. As long as the head is good and I don't need another head or any machining on the existing head to flatten it if warped the cost of this repair at my local Ford garage for my vans engine and year as of the date of this posting is about 2 Grand.

Called several other local garages and none of them were willing to tackle this job due to an unfamiliarity with these modular Ford engines. Probably due to the dual overhead cam design of the engine. Pep Boys was willing to do it and quoted a cost of 16 hundred, but I would have to travel 50 miles to the closest Pep Boys and I used to live close to a Pepboys and use them regularly as they treated my wife pretty fairly when she went in alone. The only issue I had with them is after they quoted a job you could normally count on a couple extra hundred dollars in charges as it always seemed they "found things they did not anticipate" once they started the job.

 

Are you sure you are not at point where it is not much more to put in a short block?

 

I'm probably pretty close, but when I bought the van I also bought one of those used car warranties and they will not pay anything for going the short block route. Doing just the head gasket repair they are paying 60% and I am paying 40%. So out of pocket for me is $800. I don't think going the short block route can be done at the price I am paying. I actually found remanufactured long blocks for around $1700. Ultimately this is my daily driver and work vehicle, so I can't wait several weeks for the long block to arrive then even further delays as I sit in my garage doing the engine swap for several days. I can do almost anything on engines, but it just takes me a whole lot longer than a garage to do it.

Also I have another project vehicle, (*cough* a Chevy Nova), sitting in my garage right now that is in the process of a frame off restoration. Building a rotissery for it currently to make all the body work easier. I'm just fixing the van up to get about 4 years out of it then once the wifes car is paid off I will be getting an actual pick up truck. Not sure if I will keep the Van at that point or get rid of it. We will have to see how it is running at that point.