Back to basics
#1
Back to basics
During the past few years I have had young people work for me and I have seen numerous time where previous owners of the cars these kids drive cut the positive cable lead on the battery and put an after-market fitting on that has a clamp end on it so they can add large power wires for their sound systems. If it doen't thump it isn't cool. The ground lead is often the same way. After a period of time corrosion takes over and the battery isn't charging well and they can't understand why the car alarm is going off and the car doesn't want to start. One such young man stopped by today complaining of all these problems. I allowed him to work in frustration for a few minutes then went out, got the proper tools, and proceeded to clean the battery connections and tighten the clamp on leads. He turned on the car and it started imediately. Imagine that. He gave me a hug told me I was his hero. These are good kids but have no idea of what they are doing. What is it with the installers of the stereo system and placing a wire between the fender and fender liner to pass it though to the interior of the car; twelve volts and high amps don't mix well when the insulation wares through? I'm not up on the sound systems of today but shouldn't there be some type of buss bar and relay system used to protect the charging system and the circuitry of the car? I would like to know as I will have other young people pass through my shop before I'm done on this earth. Thanks all for your thoughts.
Gear Up
Gear Up
#2
#4
#5
#7
Well, if they are tapping the battery leads for power on a Ford system, just dock their pay for the batteries you are going to eat up every 8 to 12 months. Ford electrical systems an NOT wired to draw current directly off the battery like a GM car. It is distributed off the Starter solenoid.
Take the number of watts the system pulls, divide it by 12 and that's the amount of amps that thing is pulling out of that battery and the alternator is pumping back in.
Take the number of watts the system pulls, divide it by 12 and that's the amount of amps that thing is pulling out of that battery and the alternator is pumping back in.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
You mean to say that Nickel Back, Disturbed, and NIN aren't up there with the classics? The car in consideration is an Eagle Talon or more precise a Mitsubishi. The kids around here like the little rice burners and they all have their place, it's just that they need to be more intellegent as to how they put the systems in. I have seen too many spliced in systems and then they wonder why the electronic control modules don't preform correctly. In my younger day the 8 track was the rage and all you did was find an opening at the fuse block and got the the system powered up in no time. It put out enought volume to cover the rear axle bearing going out on the old Ford and I got to spend a night at the Paris Hotel in downtown Benson, Minn. one Sunday night. I learned then not to play the stereo too loud; I needed to know what the car was doing. Yes to be young and dumb. Face it, we would make the same mistakes if we were young again.
Gear Up
Gear Up
#10
im completely offended by these posts. Im 19 and have to say i started car audio when i was 16. I learned everything myself and understood it all. I found out all of information through forums and help from car audio shops. A relay will not work because it has to be directly connected to the battery. The people who are coming into your shop and not knowing what they are doing have such a small amp that not very much damage can be done. (usually around 600 to 700 watts) even if their amp says 1000w. I have put in systems that are pulling over 6kw and they kit. over 150 dbs a hit. it doesnt matter if its a daily driver or a competition everyone has their own opinions. just like many people like old dodges over old fords. personal preference.
When running a system and people hook up straight to their battery most kits comes with an inline fuse. also about a relay. a terminal can be set up in the back to split wires and make it look cleaner with the bonuses of a terminal. people who run in their fenders do it sometimes because its faster and the wire is able to withstand weather.
you cant directly hook up a system to your alt. which is what i think julie was hinting at but there are options and things you can do to save your electrical system. And from experience i have noticed that these things shoud be done to a car anyways.
Upgrading the big three ( the wire from your alt to your battery) which is usually around 8g on a car anyways is the first thing alot of audio people do. it lets more current draw. Have you noticed when your lights dim when you roll down your window or when you press your horn. its because not enough current is being able to flow. Most alternators are around 85 to 95 amps on newer cars anyways. When was the last time you heard 8g wire can withstand 85 amps? cripe most dryers in a household need to be on a double pole 30amp on 120v. let alone 12v pushing 30 amps.
after you update the wiring. people update their aloternators and put a high output alt (120+ amps)in so they can create more current faster. it doesnt make sense to be able to pull more current when your alternator can only generate so much. this is the most common reason why people replace alts and batteries if they have a system. Car audio isnt the only place people put in h.o alts in . Towing vehicles need more power from their electrical system . hence bigger alts in trucks than cars. and dont say its because they are bigger because that is bullcrap. 5.7L in a 2004 GTO. 5.7L in a dodge ram . same engine. different reasons . your not going to be hauling a 30ft boat with a GTO.
Car audio isnt just for big SPL (sound pressure level) that most people are looking for. I have seen over 4kw playing rock music. this was put in a 2005 silverado by a contractor here in peoria il. not everyone is looking for big bass.
SO before you start making fun of people for their systems why dont you help educate and teach. recommend the big three or sound deadening material. different alts or deep cell batteries. become come from all sides of automotive. stop being so ignorant. not everyone who drives a car with a big system is a douchebag 18 year old kid. the ones who play it at 9pm in a subdivsion is just as much ignorant as the people on this thread making jokes to screw someone elses car up.
When running a system and people hook up straight to their battery most kits comes with an inline fuse. also about a relay. a terminal can be set up in the back to split wires and make it look cleaner with the bonuses of a terminal. people who run in their fenders do it sometimes because its faster and the wire is able to withstand weather.
you cant directly hook up a system to your alt. which is what i think julie was hinting at but there are options and things you can do to save your electrical system. And from experience i have noticed that these things shoud be done to a car anyways.
Upgrading the big three ( the wire from your alt to your battery) which is usually around 8g on a car anyways is the first thing alot of audio people do. it lets more current draw. Have you noticed when your lights dim when you roll down your window or when you press your horn. its because not enough current is being able to flow. Most alternators are around 85 to 95 amps on newer cars anyways. When was the last time you heard 8g wire can withstand 85 amps? cripe most dryers in a household need to be on a double pole 30amp on 120v. let alone 12v pushing 30 amps.
after you update the wiring. people update their aloternators and put a high output alt (120+ amps)in so they can create more current faster. it doesnt make sense to be able to pull more current when your alternator can only generate so much. this is the most common reason why people replace alts and batteries if they have a system. Car audio isnt the only place people put in h.o alts in . Towing vehicles need more power from their electrical system . hence bigger alts in trucks than cars. and dont say its because they are bigger because that is bullcrap. 5.7L in a 2004 GTO. 5.7L in a dodge ram . same engine. different reasons . your not going to be hauling a 30ft boat with a GTO.
Car audio isnt just for big SPL (sound pressure level) that most people are looking for. I have seen over 4kw playing rock music. this was put in a 2005 silverado by a contractor here in peoria il. not everyone is looking for big bass.
SO before you start making fun of people for their systems why dont you help educate and teach. recommend the big three or sound deadening material. different alts or deep cell batteries. become come from all sides of automotive. stop being so ignorant. not everyone who drives a car with a big system is a douchebag 18 year old kid. the ones who play it at 9pm in a subdivsion is just as much ignorant as the people on this thread making jokes to screw someone elses car up.
#12
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: northwestern Ontario
Posts: 263,037
Received 4,135 Likes
on
2,657 Posts
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ighten-up.html
I;ve included this link you should read 3rdshiftdecrection. We are all here to help and learn from each other and to hang out in general. If you have a good deal of knowledge in the correct way of sound equipment installments please do so. Just please lighten up and educate us as you are most welcome here old, young or in between.
I;ve included this link you should read 3rdshiftdecrection. We are all here to help and learn from each other and to hang out in general. If you have a good deal of knowledge in the correct way of sound equipment installments please do so. Just please lighten up and educate us as you are most welcome here old, young or in between.
#13
You need to push the clutch in a little and re-evaluate what "offends" you. If you don't, you will have a rough time.
I know, I know,..........I wish I was as smart today as I was when I was 19......however I learned that knowledge must be complimented with experience, and experience has no short cuts. The more experience I got, the dumber I became and the smarter guys like my father became.
The bottom line is we are here to get along and share ideas and knowledge, not convince everyone else that we are the smartest one in the world.
Perhaps next time you can add a post that suggests a better way of installing something and we can learn from each other instead of shooting at each other.
All the best,
#14
i just think it was completely out of line for someone to even suggest to a shop to ruin someone's car. i take no offense to people saying they hate that thumping bass. but not all systems that include an amp means they are listening to music under 100 hertz. i might not be extraordinary with a wrench and cant put my comment in for transmissions but electronics is my game. sorry i got so butthurt but it bothered me
and i know 3 years isnt alot but look how long these mechanic programs are. they expect someone to be "pro" with the knowledge they teach them in 9 months . so going around calling them professional mechanics isnt something i want to be calling them. i might be young but i learn fast
and i know 3 years isnt alot but look how long these mechanic programs are. they expect someone to be "pro" with the knowledge they teach them in 9 months . so going around calling them professional mechanics isnt something i want to be calling them. i might be young but i learn fast
#15
3rdshiftdiscretion might only have 35 posts and may have taken the slight a little personally but he knows whats up in the car audio scene just from his last post. Seems like if any of you all have questions on any kind of audio, bet he would be happy to help clairfy.
3rdshift, where did/do you install in Peoria? I installed at Sound of Peoria 94-95. Havent done it since professionally
3rdshift, where did/do you install in Peoria? I installed at Sound of Peoria 94-95. Havent done it since professionally