1. C4. Prolly from a junkyard or rebuilder.
2. Looks to be a 4.9L (300 CID) I-6, as it should be.
3. No way to know. It does appear to have the TFI ignition though.
4. 'Cause someone put a small aftermarket air cleaner on it.
Now that I watched your video's, I can say this much. It WAS a feedback system, and has been partly converted to the older non-computerized system. The carb has been done, but not the ignition as far as I can tell. The DS2 box should be on the driver side inner fender, and it doesn't show in any pics or video.
Looking at the numbers on the transmission pan,i'd be willing to bet you have a junkyard transmission.The original transmission probably went bad,and a previous owner found the C4 and threw it on.
As far as your engine,a 300 straight six is the same engine as a 4.9 300 Inline Six.It's just different terminology.There were only 3 engines offered in 85 for F150's,the 4.9 300 Inline 6 cylinder,the 5.0 302 V8 and the 5.8 351 V8.The 300 Six is the easiest to tell apart from the others because it is long and in a straight line.It also only has 6 spark plugs versus a V8's 8 plugs.Your engine is definitely a 4.9 300 Inline 6.
As far as your ignition system goes,it's definitely been tampered with.I see you're also missing some vaccum hoses too.
So, what you all are saying is my truck is a piece of **** right?
Well, I will fix it!
wow seems like you need to calm down lol....no-one is sayin your truck is a piece of ****. It's what you make of it. Like previous ppl have said. You have a 4.9l same as the 300 inline six. From the looks of it you do have a junkyard tranny but that doesnt mean its "junk". Pull the pan and change your filter and what not. Give it a good once over. You never know the condition of it. It could be 20 yrs old or it could be five, who knows ? Theres also nothing wrong with having a small air cleaner on it like it does just make sure it stays clean. Hell if it comes to it, ill just take the truck off your hands so you dont have to worry about it anymore
look for the big 4"x4" aluminum box should be three bolts holding it on take it off and over to advance auto or what ever store that will check it for free. next pull distributor cap off (do not pull any wires off with out knowing by heart the sequence and location EVER!) any way check the cap and rotor button for wear (arc tracking) and corrosion also check the pick up inside distributor make suer there is no corrosion there too. next weed out any small vacuum lines that are not needed get about 6ft. while getting the module checked just in case the ones on the truck are hard and rotted.
bout all I can say with out knowing more hope this helps.
Trust me man,my truck looks nice,but it's got it's fair share of problems.Might even have alot more than your truck.By the time i'm done with the truck,i'm gonna have nearly everything rebuilt or replaced.Uneducated(in mechanics) previous owners can be detrimental to our trucks.The previous owner of mine cut the rear taillight harness completely in two,and disconnected or took off just about everything on my 300.I've slowly put everything back or replaced it altogether.You're not the only one man,alot of us are in the same boat as you,and when you start to get frustrated it's important to step back,take a breath and just think about how rewarding it will be once you get the truck up and running.That's what keeps me going on my truck.
Wait... I thought my ignition was tampered with and I don't have that 4x4 big aluminum box? I also thought I didn't have the duraspark ignition?
You are correct, you do have the TFI. Basically your distributor has a shaft with a sensor wheel in it, and a rotor on top. That's it. It makes spark, and sends it to the correct cylinder. What it doesn't have is the vacuum advance and the advance weights down inside that advance the timing. So your timing is locked in one spot. This is not the greatest for power and fuel mileage. In your original system, the computer advanced the timing. Since it's all disconnected, that doesn't work anymore.
To get it right, you will have to get duraspark II distributor that has the vacuum line connection on it, and get the silver ignition box that goes with it. The box can come from any vehicle, car or truck, any engine, just make sure the plastic where the wires go in is blue in color. You will need a dist from a 300 six cylinder though.
OK no big box, I wasn't sure which it was if it has tfi (thick film ignition) it has the diode and photo receptor type, with tone wheel inside attached to the rotor should have six slots in it you will need a book to chase the wiring also I believe that these type do not have vacuum advance in place of the vacuum solenoid it will have what they call the octane rod attached to the electric eye part of your ignition.
If this is what you have check the diode and photo receptor for dirt and grease also tone wheel on rotor. The module should be on dist. two screws hold it on 8mm or torx drive take it off and have it checked if it is good, then you will have to chase down your wiring or just get a new distributor and do away with your current set up. Your choice its a head ace either way, but new or different ignition set up will be less trouble since the truck has been hacked/modified.
I personally have never seen the tfi on a carb vehicle before so I dunno the wiring for it.
Personally I would get an Offenhauser 4bbl intake and your choice of header/headers and the 400cfm Holley whether you go with MSD, Mallory or durra spark2 is up to you but the after market ignition will install easier no hunting in a junk yard for harness. Summit racing or Jegs will have every thing you need.
As for your trans did or does it drive/shift with out slipping? If it does, don't worry about it yet, lets just get you driving again for now.
Yeah a lot are in the same boat as you. I bought an 80 F150 stepside. Some punk kid had had it and cut the fuel filler neck so I had to build one because you can't buy one. All of the vaccum lines were gone. The radio was there but not hooked up. There were Toyota bilstein racing shocks on the front that were bottomed out and the springs didn't sit right (weren't the right ones) so they tried welding the spring to the little plate thats inside the spring. just stupid crap like that. Since I've had , which is since Nov., I've put a clutch in it, tune up, rebuilt the carb, heater core, stat, water and fuel pumps, shocks, springs, and wheel studs. It just takes time. I've had my truck for 5 months and this past month is the only time I have been able to drive it everyday without it breaking down.
Going on Carfax, it says there are 8 records for my truck.. However, I don't have the money to pay $40.00 to see it.
How else could I check if it is the original engine or not? Does it look like the original engine?
Question Four: Why is the air filter on the Carburetor so small?
On all of the other trucks I have seen that's this year/model, they have a huge air filter on top of the carb. Is it just because they wanted one? Or is that a sign of a different engine?
what i would do is remove that egr spacer and get a distributor with a vacuum advance and upgrade to dura spark 3 with your ignition it will run alot smoother without that egr crap!! and thats a carter yfa carb so if you do this make sure you take off the kick down bolt i did it to mine and no problems