Extreme Duty Tow Hook Work Platform
#1
Extreme Duty Tow Hook Work Platform
I know... not much really new here on this mod. However, I finally got around to finishing my Extreme Duty version and wanted to share it with you folks.
Everything is explained in the attached PDF, but for convenience I'll put it here as well.
As far as I can find, the original concept for this mod was posted by Craven (Jeff) back in January 2006. I’ve always liked the concept, but was too concerned about my weight being on it, so I’ve waited until I could decide how to strengthen it and have now completed my own “beefed up” version of Jeff’s concept. The pics of my job are below.
Here's the link to Jeff's original thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-platform.html
This platform serves two purposes:
1. Platform from which to work and reach under the hood, and
2. Cargo retainer to help keep things from sliding around too much in the bed of the truck
What did I do differently than Jeff’s original concept?
- I used a vertical support beam (2x4) underneath the stepping platform so I could be sure it would easily support a heavy load (me).
- I used extra heavy duty hardware which is both bolted all the way through the platform with two bolts per anchor point, and this hardware is also removable to minimize any potential interference with loading materials in my truck.
- I covered the entire platform and galvanized d-ring hardware with textured spray-on bedliner so that I would not have to worry about either potential rotting or a slippery surface if I have to rely on this platform while having to work under the hood away from a covered working area in foul weather.
Here are the dimensions and raw materials:
- Platform, 1-1/2” thick x 9” wide x 56” long
- Vertical support made from a 2x4, center-mounted about 4” from each end for 48” overall length
- 2 ea., Extra HD zinc-plated bolt-on d-rings, $3-$4 each
- 2 ea., Extra HD 3/8” spring link (SS), 400 lbs safe working load, $7 each
- 2 ea., 5/16” zinc-plated Clevis hooks, 3900 lbs safe working load, $6 each
- 4 ea., 2-1/2” long zinc-plated carriage bolts with nuts and flat washers
- D-rings mounted in center of platform’s width, centered over length with 38-5/8” between, each of the two mounting carriage bolts landing on either side of the vertical support beam (may need to chisel a little of the beam out for the washers to seat flat underneath the board)
- 1 can of primer paint (I used black chalkboard paint)
- 3 cans of Rustoleum spray-on Truck Coating, $8 each (2 cans are probably enough)
The PDF file even has an extra little thing I came up with at the end of it... no room for that in these pics, though, so you'll have to get the PDF to see it.
Everything is explained in the attached PDF, but for convenience I'll put it here as well.
As far as I can find, the original concept for this mod was posted by Craven (Jeff) back in January 2006. I’ve always liked the concept, but was too concerned about my weight being on it, so I’ve waited until I could decide how to strengthen it and have now completed my own “beefed up” version of Jeff’s concept. The pics of my job are below.
Here's the link to Jeff's original thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-platform.html
This platform serves two purposes:
1. Platform from which to work and reach under the hood, and
2. Cargo retainer to help keep things from sliding around too much in the bed of the truck
What did I do differently than Jeff’s original concept?
- I used a vertical support beam (2x4) underneath the stepping platform so I could be sure it would easily support a heavy load (me).
- I used extra heavy duty hardware which is both bolted all the way through the platform with two bolts per anchor point, and this hardware is also removable to minimize any potential interference with loading materials in my truck.
- I covered the entire platform and galvanized d-ring hardware with textured spray-on bedliner so that I would not have to worry about either potential rotting or a slippery surface if I have to rely on this platform while having to work under the hood away from a covered working area in foul weather.
Here are the dimensions and raw materials:
- Platform, 1-1/2” thick x 9” wide x 56” long
- Vertical support made from a 2x4, center-mounted about 4” from each end for 48” overall length
- 2 ea., Extra HD zinc-plated bolt-on d-rings, $3-$4 each
- 2 ea., Extra HD 3/8” spring link (SS), 400 lbs safe working load, $7 each
- 2 ea., 5/16” zinc-plated Clevis hooks, 3900 lbs safe working load, $6 each
- 4 ea., 2-1/2” long zinc-plated carriage bolts with nuts and flat washers
- D-rings mounted in center of platform’s width, centered over length with 38-5/8” between, each of the two mounting carriage bolts landing on either side of the vertical support beam (may need to chisel a little of the beam out for the washers to seat flat underneath the board)
- 1 can of primer paint (I used black chalkboard paint)
- 3 cans of Rustoleum spray-on Truck Coating, $8 each (2 cans are probably enough)
The PDF file even has an extra little thing I came up with at the end of it... no room for that in these pics, though, so you'll have to get the PDF to see it.
#6
Thanks guys. I definietly could have done it much cheaper, but like I said, I wanted to be able to have me and one of my sons both up there at the same time without any sagging issues, and I DEFINITELY wanted to avoid potenially slippery surfaces with the bedliner coating. I'm well-pleased. Even though it does have a little swing to it when standing on it, it is a very stable platform and really makes a difference when having to reach back near the turbo area.
#7
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#10
Thanks guys, but like a lot of other situations, the only credit I can really take is for the few upgrades on this useful mod, and I seriously doubt that I'm the first one to think about them anyway. The original concept came clearly from Craven, and I don't want anyone to think I'm trying to steal his thunder at all.
#13
Dear Mr. Engineer:
I believe technically if you're going for the beefed up safety version, you should consider locking carabiners instead of the cheap clips you have on there. I don't foresee any catastrophic failure with your materials, but the snap carabiner you have pictures should be considered a wear item and replaced as it slowly opens up and no longer closes properly. At least in my opinion.
Otherwise, nice work Pete.
I believe technically if you're going for the beefed up safety version, you should consider locking carabiners instead of the cheap clips you have on there. I don't foresee any catastrophic failure with your materials, but the snap carabiner you have pictures should be considered a wear item and replaced as it slowly opens up and no longer closes properly. At least in my opinion.
Otherwise, nice work Pete.
#14
#15
Dear Mr. Engineer:
I believe technically if you're going for the beefed up safety version, you should consider locking carabiners instead of the cheap clips you have on there. I don't foresee any catastrophic failure with your materials, but the snap carabiner you have pictures should be considered a wear item and replaced as it slowly opens up and no longer closes properly. At least in my opinion.
Otherwise, nice work Pete.
I believe technically if you're going for the beefed up safety version, you should consider locking carabiners instead of the cheap clips you have on there. I don't foresee any catastrophic failure with your materials, but the snap carabiner you have pictures should be considered a wear item and replaced as it slowly opens up and no longer closes properly. At least in my opinion.
Otherwise, nice work Pete.
Ahem... excuse me while I regain my composure here.
Dear Mr. Chris (though I could have chosen a different address):
You bring up a decent point worthy of a decent response.
If you look closely, you can see that what I used was not a simple cheap clip (but just in case you can't see that well, I've attached a close up picture of the spring link I used, being careful to highlight the closing mechanism for your benefit ). The spring-loaded closeure doesn't just rest against the link's hook, but it interlocks with it to prevent a simple load-induced opening. As far as these links being "wear items", I expect I'll spend more time re-coating the top of the board from them bouncing and jiggling on top of it while riding in the bed of the truck.
Granted, an ideal choice would have been a screw-coupled quick link which has more than 3-4x the working load for the same structural size. However, those links are not as long as the spring link I chose (at least HD didn't have any which were long enough), and would thereby cause the step platform to rest at a more steep angle AND be closer to the bottom of the bumper, thereby DECREASING the safety of standing on it because of both the angle AND the likelihood of getting the toes of your boot caught between the board and the protruding bumper surface above it.
Add to the above information the fact that the two spring links offer a combined working load of 800 lbs, it will more than likely never be a load-limiting issue for either me or me and someone else the size of me with EACH of us holding a turbo for a "twin setup" installtion.
Ahem... stepping down from perverbial platform.
In spite of all that, you made a good point, at least in my opinion.
Respectfully yours,
Mr. Engineer
Besides, it can always be installed in reverse with the grab hooks being inserted from the bumper side of the tow hook, but I'm not sure that one way is better than the other given how awkward it is to hang the rascal to begin with.
Regardless, I do like the idea of the safety clip device, but once again, being limited by the inventory at HD when I made the purchases, there were none available which were large enough to fit onto the tow hooks.
Still... All kidding aside... all in all, I really like the way you guys are thinking and sincerely appreciate the input.