Could you delete the fuel bowl but keep the mechanical fuel pump? Cause I would like to get rid of that ugly fuel bowl and put in pipe and a inline filter, also make it so I can install a fuel pressure gauge. (Also be adding in a fuel regulator) can it be done? I hope it can be. Cause I would so lookin into doing it.

 

My first question is why you would want to keep that pump in there is your doing a regulated return?

I'm going to so that you cannot use the mechanical because you will not be able to sustain the regulated return pressure at idle.

 

Isnt that what a check valve is for?

 

I'm sure you could do whatever you want to it as long as you sustain the proper pressure AND flow requirements and filtration requirements.

The thing I would mostly be worried about is the deletion of a filter that filters fuel for your $250+ each fuel injectors. A set of those run around $3000 with labor to replace. If you can find a filter that flows enough at the micron rating that the factory filter provides, I see no reason why you couldn't get rid of the filter housing.

You will also be deleting the fuel water separation design of the system as well as a way to drain that water/tank rust/metal pump particles.

So re-create what the manufacturer has done a different way, and you have yourself a deleted fuel bowl.

 

Just buy a electric fuel pump system.

 

Well lol laugh now boy laugh now. I had to use the PSD to jump the Belarus 250AS, and my fuel pump leeks like a civ. So I am going to read and figure out about doing a electrc fuel pump conversion. I plan on just leaving the old pump in place cause I dont wnat to drop that pin into the engine, so since the pumps bad it can be its own plate. But on that subject. Do I have to take the turbo off to take the pump off? If so, not going to do that just yet. But I am on the process of conveting, just need to get some things sold so I have money.

 

No you don't have to remove the turbo, and I wouldn't cause its a pain to install more so than to remove.

The big bolt on the back of the pump is 1 1/4" and its the hardest to get to to loosen, then remove. I have a modified 1 1/4" wrench bent slightly on the box end side for more angle and ground thin at the handle about 2 inches from the box end down the handle. It works well for breaking it loose. Then you have to figure out how to thread it out. If it was an International truck, I just pull the line with the pump, but you can't do that on the fords cause the line routes differently.

If you are going to remove the mechanical pump, make sure the valley is clean so you don't knock debris (and whatever other surprises) down into the hole onto the camshaft.

Another trick I have done is to loosen the pump, then break it off leaving the plunger and part of the pump still in the block, then just pull out the plunger with the rest of the pump piece.

I think theres a recent thread on here about converting to an electric pump.

 

Removing the pump is not as bad as everyone makes it sound. When I removed the two bolts that holds the pump down the pump lifted up by itself... meaning that the lobe was up and there was no way for the tappet to far into the crankcase.

If you start to remove the bolts and notice that the pump does not move upward simply turn the engine over by hand until it does.

 

That's exactly right Farm, that's the way I did it!

 

Keep in mind the pump does not lift up a whole lot. But you will be able to see it lift some.

 

Neal will brag about his system someday I hope.

 

What's to brag about? It's just an average elec system. Anybody can buy.

 

Well I need to know some odd ball information. Will a fuel regulator for a gas engine surfice for diesel? Cause on ebay I can find fuel presure regulators, but they say for gas/alcohol. I assume they would stand up but IDK. Second do I need to do anything to the return system or do I jsut mess with the delivery system.

 

You will have to get one rated for diesel. Sorry

You will also have to mess with the return. Sorry. It is easy though. Rune a line back to the tank selector valve. cut the original line and splice in the new one. I may still have some info from my kit but I will have to dig it up.

 

www.dieselsite.com the cpr kit is awesome.