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  #16  
Old 04-09-2010, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 73 ford guy
Most likely going with my d2teaa truck heads now with cj valves. edelbrock heads were on Ebay when I was bidding them. It was the whole top end including performer rpm and 800cfm edelbrock. Ended up going for $1550 little over my $1450 bid. O well I can make these heads flow good.
I got my holley 770 the other day and man this thing is much heavier than my edelbrock. Pondering if I might just punch this block out to an overall.080 for some 428 pistons now....I'm so undecided. I'm going to get the block sonic checked for wall thickness because I got a set of stock cobra jet pistons I can get cheap so we'll see how this goes!
now i know what the FE stands for ****ing expensive HAHAHA!!
 
  #17  
Old 04-10-2010, 06:40 PM
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UPDATE:
Found a complete c6me 428 block standard completely rebuilt with a aluminum police interceptor intake local for $1000!! Its sitting on a engine stand and ready to go. Motor is very clean painted ford blue. Its been sitting for about 6 years in a dry storage indoors. All bolts are allen key head stainless, with brand new motor mounts,fuel pump,oil filter mount, just doesnt have a carb or exhaust manifolds. He is almost certain it is standard bore but was obviuosly rebuilt by previous owner. He says it never pushed any kind of blue. motor was originally in a 67 mustang show car and he had pics. I'm definetely buying this and taking off the police interceptor intake and putting on my headers and performer rpm along with 770 holley.
My crane fireball ignition would go on it as that is missing as well. Now I'll have a extra standard 1U crank and intake kicking around I guess...
As far as heads they are the stock 428 ones with 2.02/1.55 valves as far as we know just from the book. Motor is so clean you could eat off of it.
I cant wait to get this thing bolted in!!
 
  #18  
Old 04-13-2010, 03:14 PM
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So it probably has C8AEH heads... Just to make sure so you don't get sold a supposed 428 that is actually a 390 (or 360 or 352), I would do a stroke check on it. I would also prime the oil system (which requires priming the oil pump and turning the engine over by hand until you see oil coming from the rockers) and do a compression check so you know your not paying $1000 for a worn out engine. JMO

JC
 
  #19  
Old 04-14-2010, 02:34 PM
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Heads are c8ae-r. Checked the block # in my Steve Christ book and it could be a 390,360,410,or 428 so I will checke bore and stroke..
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:40 PM
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sell ya mine, its built, tried and true, just a thought
 
  #21  
Old 05-22-2010, 03:08 PM
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Had a second look at that 428 this guy had after looking up block casting #'s. I had to look at crank cast # to know for sure and sure enough it was stamped 2U. Not such a lucky find after all!! had to get this thing going so my.030 over 390 went to machine shop yesterday to get pistons checked and a grind and polish on the 428 1U crank. They look like they are TRW forged ones and the machinist seems to figure alot of the time TRW's can be cut down. I know I could get the low compression 390 truck piston route for a cast piston for around $200 but if I can make these work for around same ballpark I'd rather run these. We would be able to get whatever compression ratio we'd like though when shaving this down now and I'm kinda wondering what is my best option. I was leaning to 10:1 to keep shave down to minimal but will that be too high for my purpose. I'm looking for bottom end grunt while turning 44" tires. I sent the heads with the shortblock so he can CC it. Im wanting to put in cj valves while they're in the shop. With all work including valve grind,hardened exhaust seats,and whatever else I was qouted $800. Will this really wake up this motor to get some good results? I'm hoping to get into the 400 hp range with 450lb torque.
 
  #22  
Old 05-22-2010, 03:17 PM
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sounds good my dude, what's your 20 i know a dude out here with 428 stuff..what are you looking for? still looking for a 428 crank?
 
  #23  
Old 05-22-2010, 03:24 PM
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Of all the BS I went though trying to get a crank including the $500 I got ripped off for I ended up finding one here in town for 200$ It looks like it needs a .010 under grind but thats ok it was original.
I do need some cobra jet valves...?
 
  #24  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:30 PM
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On a side note the machinist said he'd balance the whole engine to my 390 flywheel by checking crank,pistons, hormonic balancer ect.. He qouted me $350 for the job but I have a line on a 428 flywheel here in town for $175. Can I just bolt that one on and call it good. I don't see why not
 
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:16 PM
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You should still have the balance done. The machinist will make bob weights to hang on your rod journals that are matched to combined weight of a piston/rod assembly. There's no way that your custom 410 piston rod assembly weighs the same as a stock 428 assembly. I guess it all depends on how much you care about smooth idle and longevity.

Balancing my rotating ssembly was $160.00
 
  #26  
Old 05-29-2010, 10:35 AM
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The 410 uses the same crank & rods as the 428, and external balances the same with the weighted flywheel. The assembly can be internal balanced, might take some Mallory metal to do, which is where the expense comes from. We normally will do it with an amped-up stroker car engine and then you can use any standard flywheel / flexplate, but for a pickup engine that's going to go in the truck and stay there, not really necessary.
Most important thing though, if it's an original cast 428 flywheel and you're going to rev it up a bit, it's old and cast iron at best, and your feet are probably valuable to you- if you can afford it, get a new steel wheel
 
  #27  
Old 05-29-2010, 11:10 AM
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So as long as it has a 428 crank either a 410 or 428 the original 428 flywheel will work with any size bore or whatever???? I cant seem to get anyone to say YES or NO! I'd just like to get the flywheel put on and call it balanced...
 
  #28  
Old 05-29-2010, 11:54 AM
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You're not listening- "The 410 uses the same crank & rods as the 428". Same 3.98 stroke crank was used in the 410 Mercury engine as in the Ford/ Mercury 428- same part- finito. Same rods, same bobweighted flywheel/flexplate. Same. Same. Same.
If the assembly is balanced to the original-type external balanced flywheel, run that. If you spend the extra bux to have it internally balanced, use the normal straight-up balance wheel. If you start dicking with the pistons and remove weight from them, that will be accounted for in the balancing operation. Any time you change the weights of the reciprocating parts it needs to be rebalanced. Just decide if you want to use the original-type external balance 410/428 wheel, or the 360/390 type zero balance wheel (which will cost more to balance), give the guy the flywheel you want to run, and let the poor guy do it
JMHO, and of course I don't know much, but you're sure making a pretty simple engine build extremely complicated, and way over-thinking some stuff. If your builder knows what he's doing, let him build it, and quit going in all directions you're gonna drive him nutz, and he'll start tuning you out
 
  #29  
Old 05-29-2010, 01:38 PM
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Ok ok I got ya! So the pistons do make a difference. I'll probably not bother with extra cost for the 428 flywheel and just balance it with my 390 one
 
  #30  
Old 05-29-2010, 08:52 PM
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Smile compression, intakes

73, did you buy that other engine ? If so, keep that aluminum police interceptor intake safely off to the side and away from your machinist. If your machinist cut the sides of the intake when it wouldn't fit the milled heads......that is a clear signal he does know what he is doing. Now that E-bok intake that he cut will ONLY fit something with cut heads. If done properly, by cutting the sides of the heads, you could run any intake you want. Competant machinists know this - does he have a reason as to why the intake was cut ? I have some rare and exspensive factory aluminum intakes, and I would be out for blood if someone cut them. Now, an edelbrock RPM isn't really that big a deal, but i would want to now why it wasn't done correctly.



And on cutting the pistons, if you have the old TRW L2291Fs they are plenty sturdy and thick enough on top so you can cut the ~.100 off with out fear. You will need to cut new valve eyebrows after you cut the piston tops. DinosaurFan, at his Dad's house
 


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