No fuel,no spark & no codes
#1
No fuel,no spark & no codes
99 ranger 2.5 wont start. It does not have fuel pressure and I can not hear the pump run. The spark plugs are not firing and the creader reader only comes up with the letter E. Thought maybe the PCM was bad but the junk yard replacment does not do anything different. Turns over just fine.
Where\what to check?
Where\what to check?
#2
Did this problem come about after some event????
Your likely on the right track suspecting the comuter, as it controls the spark & fuel injection, but the computer itself may not be the root cause.
Maybe begin with checking the B+ feed to the computer.
When you turn the ignition key from off to run, before cranking the engine, do all of the warning lights on the dash light up for their system self check????
If not, maybe begin with a check of the under hood computer power relay, located in the power distribution box, drivers side back where the firewall & fender meet. These relays are a common problem part.
You could give it a thump to see if it'll wake up, or swap it for a like relay not needed to run the engine, like the AC relay & see what happens.
Check for blown fuses to the computer & power relay too.
Let us know what you find.
Your likely on the right track suspecting the comuter, as it controls the spark & fuel injection, but the computer itself may not be the root cause.
Maybe begin with checking the B+ feed to the computer.
When you turn the ignition key from off to run, before cranking the engine, do all of the warning lights on the dash light up for their system self check????
If not, maybe begin with a check of the under hood computer power relay, located in the power distribution box, drivers side back where the firewall & fender meet. These relays are a common problem part.
You could give it a thump to see if it'll wake up, or swap it for a like relay not needed to run the engine, like the AC relay & see what happens.
Check for blown fuses to the computer & power relay too.
Let us know what you find.
#7
OK, good trouble shooting so far.
Now check the PCM relays power diode, if you have one it'll be in the under hood power distribution box.
With your multimeter set on the X1000 or higher ohms scale, It should show continuity in only one direction when the multimeters test leads are reversed. If it doesn't read at all, it could prevent the PCM's power relay from working.
If that checks ok, then move to the PCM's electrical connector on the firewall & back probe the B+ feed wire to the computer there & see if it's making it that far.
If not. then there is likely a wiring or electrical connector/pin/socket problem between the B+ output side of the PCM power relay & the PCM firewall electrical connector.
Did this problem come about after an "event" like a jump start, ect????
Now check the PCM relays power diode, if you have one it'll be in the under hood power distribution box.
With your multimeter set on the X1000 or higher ohms scale, It should show continuity in only one direction when the multimeters test leads are reversed. If it doesn't read at all, it could prevent the PCM's power relay from working.
If that checks ok, then move to the PCM's electrical connector on the firewall & back probe the B+ feed wire to the computer there & see if it's making it that far.
If not. then there is likely a wiring or electrical connector/pin/socket problem between the B+ output side of the PCM power relay & the PCM firewall electrical connector.
Did this problem come about after an "event" like a jump start, ect????
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#10
OK, good feedback & to hear your on the road again.
Now you may have a spare computer if the diode blew fast enough!!!!
If you don't want to re-install it to find out, most autoparts stores will bench test it at no cost.
Would be interesting to know if it's still ok, if not it may be salvageable & is worth something, so don't toss it out, if you don't want to have it reworked.
Now you may have a spare computer if the diode blew fast enough!!!!
If you don't want to re-install it to find out, most autoparts stores will bench test it at no cost.
Would be interesting to know if it's still ok, if not it may be salvageable & is worth something, so don't toss it out, if you don't want to have it reworked.