Factor FX kit and tire size
#1
Factor FX kit and tire size
Ive got a 16 Powerstroke with factory FX kit. The rear is definitely lifted as I see the block and Im guessing the front is as well. Everything is stock at this point. Going to need a new set of tires and Im thinking of going a bit larger, as I dont think it look quite right with the 275 20s. They are 34 and I got a rear from another member in a post in the 6.7L thread and 35 should fit without any issues. Im guessing if I want to go to 37s Im going to need rims, lift, and tires and I dont think I want to spend the 4K+ that would run. Im thinking I want to stay stock and dont really want wide offsets.
Does anyone know for sure what the lift over stock the FX kit provides? Also, would love to see some pictures of your rig with 35s or 37s and what work you had done to get there.
Does anyone know for sure what the lift over stock the FX kit provides? Also, would love to see some pictures of your rig with 35s or 37s and what work you had done to get there.
#2
0”. Fx4 package is nothing more than ford shocks with rancho stickers, skid plates and fx4 stickers on the bed. But you should have no issues running 35’s.
The blocks you saw in the rear, every truck has them. There are different front coil springs that can vary @1”-1.5”, but that has to do with snow prep packages and such, not the fx4.
Some have ran 37’s with a 2” spacer kit, but it’s going to rub some. I had to do some extremely minor liner trimming with a 3.5” lift but run a +1 offset. With stock wheels, you will rub the radius arms hard with 37’s at full lock, and may experience some minor running with 35’s. A lift will not help that.
The blocks you saw in the rear, every truck has them. There are different front coil springs that can vary @1”-1.5”, but that has to do with snow prep packages and such, not the fx4.
Some have ran 37’s with a 2” spacer kit, but it’s going to rub some. I had to do some extremely minor liner trimming with a 3.5” lift but run a +1 offset. With stock wheels, you will rub the radius arms hard with 37’s at full lock, and may experience some minor running with 35’s. A lift will not help that.
#3
#5
Here are a few pics of mine at various stages. The rubbing is the same with the 37's as it was with the 35's. It rubs on the radius arms, just in a different spot. I also added some pictures in that show compression and extension with the 37's. You can see where it rubs the radius arm in the extension picture. I do go off road in my truck quite a bit, but I'm not bombing around the desert like a desert racer. Maybe these pics will help with your decisions.
Stock.
Stock on 315/60/20 (35x12.50x20) Toyo MTs.
Carli 2.5" level with 315/60/20 Toyo MTs.
Carli 2.5" level with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RTs.
Extended with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RT.
Compressed with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RT.
Stock.
Stock on 315/60/20 (35x12.50x20) Toyo MTs.
Carli 2.5" level with 315/60/20 Toyo MTs.
Carli 2.5" level with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RTs.
Extended with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RT.
Compressed with 37x13.5x20 Toyo RT.
#6
Looks like we have very similar stock package 89, though I’d like cast wheels rather than the plastics I have. Eventually they will have to go......
Thanks for the pics and explanation. Is the leveling package the one with the Blistein 5100s? Do you think the change in where it rubs is the difference of 12.5” and 13.5” width? Do the 13.5s extend much past the rear wheel well? Do you rub during normal road driving, or when you are locked up off-road? I will be doing a bit off road, but like you said, when I’m off road, I’m going slow. How about gearing....do you notice much change towing? Sorry if these are bonehead questions, but I’ve never gone down this path before and I don’t want to make an expensive mistake. I’m planning on keeping this rig for a long time and want to get it right. Thanks again for the help.
Thanks for the pics and explanation. Is the leveling package the one with the Blistein 5100s? Do you think the change in where it rubs is the difference of 12.5” and 13.5” width? Do the 13.5s extend much past the rear wheel well? Do you rub during normal road driving, or when you are locked up off-road? I will be doing a bit off road, but like you said, when I’m off road, I’m going slow. How about gearing....do you notice much change towing? Sorry if these are bonehead questions, but I’ve never gone down this path before and I don’t want to make an expensive mistake. I’m planning on keeping this rig for a long time and want to get it right. Thanks again for the help.
#7
Thanks for the pics and explanation. Is the leveling package the one with the Blistein 5100s? Do you think the change in where it rubs is the difference of 12.5 and 13.5 width? Do the 13.5s extend much past the rear wheel well? Do you rub during normal road driving, or when you are locked up off-road? I will be doing a bit off road, but like you said, when Im off road, Im going slow. How about gearing....do you notice much change towing? Sorry if these are bonehead questions, but Ive never gone down this path before and I dont want to make an expensive mistake. Im planning on keeping this rig for a long time and want to get it right. Thanks again for the help.
I've been really happy with the set up. I also tested one of my 37x13.50x20s in the stock spare tire location and it fit just fine. It would probably need a heat shield near the exhaust, but it fit right in there without issue. Just another thought if you are thinking about 37's.
Trending Topics
#8
I do like the stance of you rig. I’ve got 3.55 gears and guess you do as well, unless and looked at a chart and based on how it runs loads now I think it should have plenty of torque. You have confirmed that. It funny....until I started looking into it, I was under the impression it as pretty level...it is when compared to my old ‘13 F150. I checked and Carli offer a radius arm that gives 1/2” additional clearance designed especially for use with the leveling kit. From what you see, do you think 1/2” would give you enough to delete the rub? Maybe I’m just being **** about it, but People love the Toyo’s. I’m looking at Nitto’s. They have a 37 in 12.5 that has my interest. Where did you mount the compressor for you airbags?
#9
I run 37x12.50 nitro ridge grapplers. I highly recommend them. A huge improvement in every category over the bfg ko2 that I’ve always ran.
Nitto and Toyo are sister company’s. They share carcasses and rubber compounds with each other, so you are really only comparing tread design and price.
Nitto and Toyo are sister company’s. They share carcasses and rubber compounds with each other, so you are really only comparing tread design and price.
#10
#11
I prefer the aggressive offset, for Looks and stability, but there are admittedly good reasons to keep your stock offset, those being suspension wear and rock chips. If you want to run factory wheels, the radius arms would be great, if you have the money. It may not stop all rub in all circumstances, but would definitely improve it, Technically, a factory wheel is not wide enough for a 12.50 tire, although lots of folks run them without issues.
#12
That is true. You may have to look around for a shop that will mount them on the factory wheels. I found an offroad shop that had no problem with it after Discount tire told me no. The approved wheel width for the 37x12.50x20 and 37x13.50x20 Toyo RTs start at 8.5" wide.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
frayed
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
4
09-09-2009 07:40 PM