how many of you guy's run an exhaust brake ?? do you believe its un safe for your truck??? or do you think its safe??

 

I don't run one Ron but if my truck sounded like that 379 Pete w/jackbrake I drove back in the day I would get one in a heartbeat. Bump..Side note, fuel mods on hold, vet bills.

 

Been running my EBPV as a brake while pulling the camper for the last couple years. So far so good.. Love it.

Not sure on the harm, Was told it was ok and no issues reported. I love the thing and saves my rotors heading down on those long downhills.

 

Same here, did the EBPV mod couple years ago, no issues.

 

i found out its hard on auto trans... and its hard on the valves, more so for the guy's that tow...

 

Ron, in all honesty, When I need to slow down I just take it out of OD, it works for me, even towing.

 

id have one to if is sounded like a 379 with strait pipes lol.

 

I've got the BD exhaust brake on this truck. It was on it when i bought it. I'm assuming that means its got 140,000 + miles on it.
I too have heard if the Ex brake creates over 40PSI of back pressure it could cause an exhaust valve to float. The auto tranny issue also makes sense most automatics do not like extended reverse torque. that's why I choose to drive a handshaker.
all that being said I love mine. slows 26,000lbs down to a crawl with ease.
Barney

 

I think it all depends, the ebpv i think is save, the ones the go in the downpipe or in the exhaust somewhere is unsafe. all of that exhaust being stopped and then being forced back into the engine, valves, springs, blocks. I have heard several occasions on blocks cracking or such from this, boost going back into the engine with no place to go.

my .02 but then again what do i know?

 

Anything is hard on our autos... Keep the RPM's up so the pump is pushing fluid and your fine. Have your tuner set up the TC to stay locked and you will be even better.

Valve float will be tough, you have to be pushing 60-70psi of exhaust back pressure to cause that. Your factory turbo pushes 70+ psi when you guys are out hot rodding it...

 

this was in a thread i read... sound about right??


First, in order to transfer the energy of the moving vehicle to the engine during deceleration, two things must occur: the torque converter must remain locked, and the coast clutch must be engaged. The problem with this is that the coast clutch on a stock transmission only has 3 friction plates, and these are smaller than the standard forward clutches. On 2001 and later transmissions, you also run the possibility of damaging the intermediate sprag or "diode" which will result in an immediate transmission teardown. Again, lightly loaded vehicles would have less of a problem with this, but the general idea of an exhaust brake is to be able to slow larger loads without overheating the standard brake system. It is these types of loads that can cause transmission damage. Obviously, a manual transmission would be free from these types of situations.

Second, whenever you increase exhaust backpressure you need to make sure that the exhaust valve springs are capable of preventing the pressure in the exhaust system from lifting the exhaust valve from the valve seat as this would result in a collision with the piston. Normal valve spring seat pressure is 70-75 <ACRONYM title="lbs per sq inch">PSI</ACRONYM> for NEW valve springs and deteriorates from there. Given that the surface area of the back of the exhaust valve is approximately 1.9 square inches, it would take only 40 <ACRONYM title="lbs per sq inch">PSI</ACRONYM> of exhaust pressure to lift the valve off the seat, even with new valve springs.

To put it simply, if you plan to use an exhaust brake, either through the use of the EBV or by purchasing an aftermarket stand alone unit, you will need to consider the condition of your transmission and exhaust valve springs in order to ensure safe, reliable operation.

 

I have the decel tune from Dp-tuner and it works really good.

 

A US Gear exhaust brake has 2 separate adjustments to limit the EBP ...and I set my EBP for a "conservative" 28 psig to eliminate any concerns regarding valve float ...and I always locked the TCC with my manual switch ...and I had the tranny line pressure set higher ...and I towed heavy for 100K miles on the original stock tranny which was still shifting perfectly when I traded my F350!

Using the EBP valve for a routine exhaust brake application will result in an oil leak ...because that warm-up device wasn't intended to be used all that often!

 

Did some data logging with AE on my last "hot rodding" run and the EBP read 53-54 psi for a while.

 

I love when you quote stuff as fact...

1995 7.3... 250k using the EBPV as a brake for 200k... When traded not one leak from the pedistal

1997 7.3... 270k using the EBPV as a brake for 180k... When sold not one leak from the pedistal

1999 7.3... 270k using the EBPV as a brake for 170k... When traded not one leak from the pedistal...

2001 7.3... from 30k until 120k used the EBPV as a brake... when the factory set up was removed not one leak...

For people that have driven these trucks for years, go for it. Have no fear from the ones that dont have the experance to quote as fact.