2006 F250SD Dyno Chart
#1
2006 F250SD Dyno Chart
Thought I would show you all my results. I just installed Gibson Shorty Headers, Dynomax Super Turbo Muffler, K&N CAI W/AFE Dry Cone Filter, and used an SCT Tuner and these are my results.
My Dyno results look almost identical to the K&N website Dyno sheet. I am off by 3 HP compared to theirs.
#3
#4
This is a 5.4L V8, but I wasn't there at the time of the dyno run so I'm not sure on which tune if any this is the printout for. I'm looking for feedback on this sheet as I am going to get more info on this tomorrow...
#6
#7
Where is your base line pull? Whats the A/F ratio? i need more info
Shorties are the only option we have, should be good for some mid range and peak HP. No one makes off the shelf long tubes for a 5.4 super duty and too my knowledge no one on the forum has modified a set to work. E - fans are also an issue on these especially if you tow. There are a couple threads about modifying a t - bird or navigator set to work. the aftermarket ones don't have enough CFM.
Shorties are the only option we have, should be good for some mid range and peak HP. No one makes off the shelf long tubes for a 5.4 super duty and too my knowledge no one on the forum has modified a set to work. E - fans are also an issue on these especially if you tow. There are a couple threads about modifying a t - bird or navigator set to work. the aftermarket ones don't have enough CFM.
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#8
Where is your base line pull? Whats the A/F ratio? i need more info
Shorties are the only option we have, should be good for some mid range and peak HP. No one makes off the shelf long tubes for a 5.4 super duty and too my knowledge no one on the forum has modified a set to work. E - fans are also an issue on these especially if you tow. There are a couple threads about modifying a t - bird or navigator set to work. the aftermarket ones don't have enough CFM.
Shorties are the only option we have, should be good for some mid range and peak HP. No one makes off the shelf long tubes for a 5.4 super duty and too my knowledge no one on the forum has modified a set to work. E - fans are also an issue on these especially if you tow. There are a couple threads about modifying a t - bird or navigator set to work. the aftermarket ones don't have enough CFM.
#9
I wouldn't have put the headers on it if I didn't have a horrible exhaust leak on the manifolds and the bolts holding them on were borderline. So I figured just eat the difference of replacement manifolds and get the headers.
#10
That's odd, they should have given you 5 or 6 pages minimum. There should be a base line pull before mods then another one after mods. The others would be in 20% throttle increments as they tune. Also the notes on all the pages would be full of info, A/F ratio, temp, humidity, ect.
#11
That's odd, they should have given you 5 or 6 pages minimum. There should be a base line pull before mods then another one after mods. The others would be in 20% throttle increments as they tune. Also the notes on all the pages would be full of info, A/F ratio, temp, humidity, ect.
#12
Honestly i don't know. I'm hoping that's the base line pull. If i remember correctly the 3v 5.4 is around 300hp at the flywheel that sheet said 207.8 max hp @ 5400. Parisitic power loss would be 25% - 30%(tranny, transfer case, axle and those large tires) it seems little low.
I'm guessing you got economy, tow and performance tunes. For economy they would lean it out a bit, Towing would be more low end torque and performance would be richer and would have the highest highest hp and tq #'s.
The dyno tech should have gone over the sheets and explained everything to you. If i were you i would give them a call or stop by and ask them where your other run sheets are at and ask them to break it down to you. All the info from your runs should be saved on the computer. As for the time and price that will very from shop to shop.
I'm guessing you got economy, tow and performance tunes. For economy they would lean it out a bit, Towing would be more low end torque and performance would be richer and would have the highest highest hp and tq #'s.
The dyno tech should have gone over the sheets and explained everything to you. If i were you i would give them a call or stop by and ask them where your other run sheets are at and ask them to break it down to you. All the info from your runs should be saved on the computer. As for the time and price that will very from shop to shop.
#13
That's exactly what I got, 87 Octane Economy, 87 Octane Towing, and 97 Octane Performance. I am def going to call/go back up there and check out whats up with the other Dyno sheets. Will post pics of them when/if I get them. BTW tires are 34" BFG's on 18" American Racing wheels. Maybe that is the 3HP difference in my baseline vs K&N's?
#14
I wouldn't worry about 3hp, there are too many variables. Different dynos, humidity, temp and then there are wheels and tires. You lose power from the rotating mass (taller and wider then stock tires, steel wheels, ect). A two wheel drive truck will have slightly more power from not having a transfer case to go through. Also they do best out of three run average because of those things, it gives a more accurate reading.
What K&N did was was richen it up till the power started to drop then showed the highest HP run sheet.
What K&N did was was richen it up till the power started to drop then showed the highest HP run sheet.
#15
I wouldn't worry about 3hp, there are too many variables. Different dynos, humidity, temp and then there are wheels and tires. You lose power from the rotating mass (taller and wider then stock tires, steel wheels, ect). A two wheel drive truck will have slightly more power from not having a transfer case to go through. Also they do best out of three run average because of those things, it gives a more accurate reading.
What K&N did was was richen it up till the power started to drop then showed the highest HP run sheet.
What K&N did was was richen it up till the power started to drop then showed the highest HP run sheet.