I have a 1992 Ford F150 FX4 300 6 cylinder. Had a hard time starting in the recent cold. Bought a new battery the old one was 5 years old. Finally I got it started, it ran for about 5 minutes (about half warmed up) then died. I have not had spark since.

The motor will turn, but no fire. Confirmed with a spark tester on the coil when cranking.

Had the TFI tested and is good

Replaced the coil, even though further testing proved the old one to be OK

I pulled the trouble codes and got the following. I am not sure if I am supposed to be getting 2 digit or 3 digit codes. I am temporarily confused. For X below I am not sure if it is the first flash or the fast flashes that come at the beginning.

X-1-1-6-6-3-6-1-1-4-1-1-6-6-3-6-1-1-4-1-1-1-1-1-1-1

Any help, guidance on the next steps, or what to test next would be greatly appreciated.

 

Looks like your code may be 116 636 114 Repeat then 111 for stored codes which translate to 116 ECT (engine coolant temperature) out of self test range, 114 ACT (Air charge (intake manifold air) temperature) out of self test range, and 636 Trans Oil Temp out of self test range (4R70W/AOD-E or E4OD only). None of these codes would prevent running, but effect normal operation of the engine and trans. How cold was the ambient outside temp when you pulled these codes? I think a board member Subford can give you a plan of attack on figuring out how to return spark to the motor. You may also have the wrong TFI for your truck, as there is a grey and black box that do not interchange and if the are interchange can prevent spark. Then there is the PIPS inside the distributor that can cause loss of spark.

Did you mean 4x4? As FX4 nomenclature/trim package didn't start appearing on fords until the last two body styles of the F-series (~2000+).

 

Thanks for the reply,

Yep, should be 4X4.

The TFI is the original one, just had it tested at the auto parts place and put it back in. It is a grey, remote mounted one.

Would be interested in hearing how to test for PIP\distributer pick up. I am assuming that is probably the only thing left. Coil good, Computer good, TFI good. What else could it be?

Thanks

 

Do you have fuel pressure?

 

Thanks for the reply

Yep, should be 4X4, temp was 25F, warmest it has been in days ;-)


I would be interested in hearing about how to test for PIP\Distributer pickup. Can I assume that it is all there is left? TFI good, Coil good, Computer probably good, Or what else could it be?

Thanks

 

oops, sorry for double post.

I didn't test for fuel pressure, I don't have spark yet, could they be related?

 

How are the battery cables and ground wires? A bad ground wire will kill you and be hard to find since your other meter lead is usually right on the battery.

 

I replaced the ground wire from the battery to the frame. It didn't look too good and smoked when cranking. Battery connections were cleaned when a new battery was put in. I will have to look to see if there is another ground somewhere. Thanks for the idea.

 

The PIP signal is what triggers the coil and injectors. I have been working a theory that you should be able to use a DVM that will also measure frequency. In theory when cranking you should be able to measure the PIP signal output pulses going to the coil/PCM/TFI module by monitoring the TACH signal. The signal should be a square wave of mildly varying frequency. If no output signal from the PIP, the DVM will not display the frequency of these pulses. You can measure this on the negative side of the coil. The positive side is always HOT (12V) when the key is on (maybe RUN position).

Poor man's method is to watch the tach when cranking, you should see it move. If no tach, the DVM in frequency mode will do the same thing. It's been too cold to test my theory so the jury is still out what the results may be. In the mean time Harbor Freight does have a cheapo $25 DVM with the frequency capability if you care to confirm/debunk the theory.

 

I have been running through the past posts and it looks like a lot of people have a similar problem. You guys must get tired of answering just about the same questions every couple of days.

I do have a digital meter, but with no frequency.

Just to confirm. If I pull the sprout and then get a spark when cranking, that should indicate a bad computer. If I don’t get spark, then it is a bad PIP

I can also confirm a bad PIP by putting a volt meter on the negative side of the coil. If I don’t get pulsing voltage when cranking (with sprout out) then it is bad.

Before replacing the computer (if indicated bad), make sure it isn’t bad connections and wiring on the relay.

I am praying for a bad PIP. I hate the idea of pulling the dist and mangling it all up to get a new PIP in there, but it is a lot easier on the pocketbook than a new computer.

Thanks all for the help, I will update the thread as I know more.

 

Here is an update.

I pulled the sprout and when I cranked it and I got spark at the tester. I looked like a sick spark, orange and weak, suposedly with this tester a good spark is suposed to be blue, don't know for sure. But there was spark.

I am now trying to look at the computer. I am trying to remove it for inspection and to get the PN. What is the magic here? Do I really have to pull the whole wheel well just to get the computer out. It doesn't look like I can go out the back, it won't come out the front, feels like it is stuck in t he bracket about half way out. Am I missing something?

I love my truck to death, but I breifly contemplated piling some old sheets soaked with gas under it and lighting them.

Any help and guidance is appreciated.

Thanks!!!

 

Yes you have to loosen the inter fender and take it out between the fender and the inter fender.

 

Thanks I was afraid somebody was going to say that. ;-(

 

umm maybe your timing belt/chain broke? is it cranking fairly fast and not even a sputter? is so i would check your timing belt/chain..

 

Actually it is cranking slow. I suspect with all of the cold weather cranking I am loosing the starter also. I have a rear main leak and put 15w50 in it for the summer and was hoping to start it to put in a thinner oil for the winter.

I only cranked it enough with the sprout out to see spark, the battery was too low to try and start. I am charging now and will try again in the morning. When I can get reliable spark, and it don't start, I will be looking to see if I jumped a tooth in the timing chain.

I also ran across a thread where someone was discussing that the power relay and other relays get thier power from the red wire that goes from the solenoid down to the starter. Tomorrow I will triple check those lines because I already had to replace the ground from the battery to the chassis.

Again, thanks for all the help, if you think of other things I should be checking, post em, and I will knock them off the list one by one.