Hello,
Im new to the forum and new to owning a 50's era classic. I have just purchased a 57' f100 with stock suspension and steering. I currently have a deposit on the truck and have yet to pick it up and am trying to get a head start on a loose steering problem. The seller has stated the pitman arm and idler arm need to be checked and possibly replaced for wear. Steering diagrams from online parts catalogs arent depicting these parts very clearly to me, but from what I can gather, the 2 parts mentioned arent identified nor available by part number in the picts. Can anyone point me to a diagram that has these parts identified by picture and part number? Also does anyone know where I can get these parts, and an approx. cost? Lastly, is there an adjustment that can be made to the steering box to tighten it up a bit, and if so, can some give me a quick explanation to the location and how-to of where this adjustment is made?
Thanks for your help!
Harry

 

Welcome to the forum, Harry!

Your pitman arm is the arm on the steering box that connects the box to the steering linkage. The idler arm is it's companion part on the opposite frame rail. If you have questions and concerns about the steering, I would suggest taking it to a good front end shop that has experience on old, straight axle trucks, and have them inspect it for you. You can do this before you plunk down the big green, and then you'll know what you're getting into with both eyes open. They'll tell you exactly what's wrong, and what's right, and give you an estimate for repairs. They can also tell you if there's adjustment left in the steering box, or if it may need to be replaced, too.

Directions for adjusting the steering box are in the factory service manual, reprints of which are available from most any of the old truck parts vendors. It's a valuable resource, and should be the number one purchase you make for your truck, should you decide to take the plunge.

 

I agree with 52 Merc about getting someone to help. If not able to find, CPP has a technical article about rebuilding a steering box that is like yours. They sell a rebuild kit or you can buy a rebuilt one outright. How much slop do you have? You can adjust some of it out. I tried with mine but too much play. The shaft and worm was shot. One problem could be also the drag link from the pitman arm can wear out and cause excessive play. Have someone move the steering wheel and watch if there is any play in the steering drag link that comes off of the pittman arm. Let us know how it is going. If the box is shot, rebuild kit about 250.00 + labor or 550 rebuilt one with charge for core. I was lucky and found one from a wrecking yard that was in good shape for 150.00 but they are hard to find. If staying stock maybe someone here might have one to sell if they converted to something else. Good luck.

 

First off, welcome to the forum. (pics if you please) I cannot add to much to the above, I will say steering problems compound and add to "loose" feeling a little play here + a little play there just keep adding to the "drunken monkey" feeling. Yes the steering box itself has steering adjustment, but on any vehicle I alway's saved that for last. You should also check you king pins by jacking up the front wheels and grabbing the tire @ 12 and 6 and wiggling it. If it moves you will need to do some front end work.

bob

 

Thanks for all of the advise. It all makes perfect sense to me. I already have a shop manual ordered, and will get to work as soon as I get the truck home and check the things you all have mentioned. I appreciate all your help!

 

Welcome to FTE

You have been mis-informed, because...

There is no idler arm used on any F Series truck. You won't find it, because there isn't one. Idler arms are found on passenger cars.

1957/60 F100/350:

The draglink (3304) connects to the Pitman Arm (3590) on one end, to the drivers side steering arm (3131) on the other end.

The long tie rod (3283) has two tie rod ends, which are replaceable.

The left (drivers) side tie rod end (3A131 or 3290) connects to the left steering arm.

The right (passenger) side tie rod end (3A130 or 3289) connects to the passenger side steering arm (3130).

And that's it...for the steering linkage.

Loose steering can also be caused by the steering gear box. 4 to 6 inches (or more!) of play in the steering wheel is a typical problem with these older Ford manual steering gearboxes.

Unless it has been rebuilt in the last two years, the following parts will need to be replaced, because turning the adjustment nut will not solve anything.

Steering shaft & worm assy (3524) / (2 each) Steering shaft & worm bearings (3571) & races (3552) / Sector shaft (3575 ) / Sector shaft bushing(s) (3576) / Seal (3591 ) & gasket (3581).

The numbers typed in blue are the Ford basic part numbers for these parts.

 

I thought he didnt know either, that's why I asked the questions. I didnt know if the parts catalogs had the whole diagram depicted, so that's why I asked. The rest was from memory when I looked under the truck when I bought it and this all matches depicted what you and others stated. Looks like a very basic suspension and steering setup, and not really the best for handling, but it will work for now. Thanks for the part numbers also. They will come in handy!
Does anyone have any experience with how a sway bar may help the handling and roll on the front (Standard ibeam solid axle with leaf setup), and if I can get one for a 57'? I thought I saw one for a 56' , but from what I saw somewhere the wheelbase is different beween the two years, so it didnt look like it would work o n the 57'(but not sure). Thanks again for everyones input and feedback!

 

Harry, fill out your profile, city and state,(oops I see FL) maybe someone local can help you out. Drive theirs to get a feel for what it's supposed to drive like. Fix all the stuff that needs fixing first and drive it. Then decide if you need more. There are a quite a few trucks on here running stock suspension and like it. Don't be afraid to post up and ask questions. I'm guilty of the same this "fixing" things and modifying stuff, and I only have 5 miles seat time on my truck. I'm mostly armchair driving it until spring.


first things first post up a few pics of your ride. You may even want to check out the "slicks" 60-66 up to 64 should have the same front axle???

http://fordtruk.com/forums/index.php

 

Thanks Bob! Is Fuller brush still up there in mountaintop? I used to live in Mount Pocono and then later in Middle Smithfield PA(next to marshalls Creek).
Right now, Im just planning in my mind. When I get the truck Ill prioritize and get it done.
Thanks.

 

Hey Harry welcome to FTE

I've got a 58F100. I guess that's the same steering as your 57. Although maybe I shouldn't say that, because I can see by the catalog that some things are different. Once you get the diagnosis down, I bought some parts at Sacramento Vintage Ford--in their current catalog they sell a 7162-2 DragLink for your 57--apparantly its "different" than the 58--They also sell tie rod ends-48-1964 apparantly the same/they also sell stock style tie rods without the ends 53-1960/they sell complete "exchange" rebuilt steering boxes for 1957-60/also they sell new steering shaft and worm gear/BUT no steering sector gear. That's a big BUT because I guess one would need to replace both the "worm gear" and the "sector gear". They fit together-can a person just replace one? I'll leave that to the pros--I wouldn't think so. I guess if one's pitted and the other not pitted--maybe that happens? What do I know--you need to look.

So there's plenty of stuff around. As others have mentioned first one needs a good diagnosis before just "buying all etc".

Just so you know, what can happen, After I replace the tie rod ends etc and the bent drag link--and couldn't find the needed worm gear/sector gear for my 58--I called everywhere!! I couldn't find the sector gear--I took it to my local NAPA and he knew a steering box rebuilder in the next county who said he had the parts etc. So I sent my old unit to him for a rebuilt exchange etc--not cheap but realistic price. And what was surprising to me and "us" was the my 58 F100 steering box had been replaced with a similar looking to "me" but bigger "box". I learned that "back when" some people started swapping out the OEM F100 boxes for the bigger truck boxes. What would that be F250's? I was told that enthusiast would go to the F250 boxes because they were better suited to later "wider profile" tires. Supposedly the stock OEM 58 box would get worn sooner with the wider tires etc--That's just what I was told. I'm not an expert but it made since. Plus its easier to "turn" the ratio/number of turns of steering wheel is different so one can turn easier etc. I returned the smaller box and he sent me a rebuilt F250 box. I couldn't have used the rebuilt OEM F100 box he sent me because I didn't have the correct pitman arm--I had the F250 pitman arm--you can't use a F100 pitman arm on a F250 etc. And I guess new pitman arms aren't common? I dont' see them listed for the "fridge" models that we have. I see them for early stuff plus later.

Anyway long story, but just more data for you. You'll do fine. Its all fixable. Mine works just great now--Before it would drive nice and straight--but there was just way to much "slop" in the steering wheel, now Its just great --about 1/2inch of play etc. Used to be about 5inches!!.

Goodluck Tom

 

57-60 ford 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton utilize the same steering box and pitman arm. I wonder if you got a one ton steering box.

 

Hi Harry! Welcome to FTE.

Just to expand on what Number Dummy said

The drag link connects the Pitman arm and the Steering arm. The Pitman and Steering arms have ***** on them that go inside a socket in the ends of the Drag Link.

If you have sloppy steering, chances are if one of your parts is worn then most of them are worn.

The tie rod ends unbolt from the arms, and unclamp/unscrew from the tie rod and can be replaced in a matter of minutes. These are shown on the first and third photo's in the center of the steering arm and have the castelated nut with cotter pin. Be sure and check the toe-in when you replace these.

The drag link can be rebuilt in a matter of minutes. The thing you need to look for when rebuilding the drag link is that the ***** on the steering arm and piutman arm are not worn out of round. I believe they can be replaced - but not sure. They can certainly be burnished to get rid of burrs and gauls. You will also want to check the lash (tightness) adjustment on the steering box if equiped.

If LOOSE steering is the only problem then these should fix them. If you do replace/rebuild them and you drive and still have road wander, then you will probably need to look at Kingpins/bushings, spring pins/eye bushings, or wheel bearings.

We've also been talking about how much new tires will effect steering and ride.

Here is a picture of my 51 Drag link attached to the pitman arm (on the side of the frame) and the steering arm (attached to the front spindle). Yours should be very similar.

PS: The drag link is the straight rod with the flaired ends and silver clamped dust covers on each end.

 

Hey thanks Idaho 211

Ya that's probably what the bigger box came from. Thanks for correcting me. They told me I just forget. It was a while ago. A one ton box--that must be it.

Tom

 

Julie's got it right again!
There is nothing inheritantly "wrong" with the stock front suspension and steering design. No it won't ever handle like a sports car (that requires a complete suspension swap front and rear, another topic completely) but it can be made to ride and handle as well as most any modern truck, minivan, or even full sized sedan just by replacing any and all worn parts. Most pickups were worked hard and not well maintained, so after 50 some years a lot of little parts (and a few bigger parts) wear out.
The steering gearbox is a major wear part. It's a carried over 30's design that required regular maintainance it seldom received to stay in good condition. There is an adjustment on them, but once there is significant wear inside adjusting it is just a bandaid that will accelerate it's final destruction.
rebuild parts and or rebuilt boxes are available (but are a bit pricey), but you still end up with a 30's design "armstrong" steering that will still require regular maintainance. If you don't have a weaker S/O, must have the stock steering wheel/horn button retained, or are doing a showroom restoration, that's the likely way to go.
If you want to mount a power steering pump onto the engine, and desire power steering, then the 57 will accept the Toyota 4x4 PS conversion that is popular with the 53-56 beam axle crowd by redrilling a couple of mounting holes in the frame for the mount adaptor. See www.midfifty.com for the conversion parts. The boxes are still available rebuilt over the counter at your favorite parts store or can be found used, Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market is a good source. This conversion is so perfect it seems to be designed for this swap.
The leaf springs on a parallel leaf spring setup like ours serve the function of a sway bar, so a seperate one will not make a lot of difference. If you are getting a lot of body roll, it's likely there is a broken spring (somewhat likely), the spring eye bushings are worn out (very likely) and/or the shocks need replacing (very likely) with a set of quality replacements, NOT with the highly over-advertised and over-rated junk sold at your local discount store.
Other high wear points that need checking and repair as needed: kingpins, tie rod ends, draglink ends and pivot *****.
As Julie said, tires also make a big difference, use an appropriate size steel belted radial, not a bias ply tire.
Finally get a good caster angle and toe in alignment adjustment.