Ford Excursion heater problems
#16
Not exactly. I get warm air from the panel but not in defrost, defrost / floor or floor. Blend door is working -- I get cold air from the floor and defrost. I'm in the middle of packing for a move to Oregon and just haven't had time to dedicate to fixing this. Also, don't want to pay someone $1000 right now to do it....but we may have to.
#19
Last weekend I lost the front heat in my 04 EB 6.0l X w/EATC. This happened briefly a week prior, but cleared at the next run cycle.
While driving blowers were fine, rear heat was fine(proves coolant flow/temp), and front zone control worked fine(proves vacuum present under dash). Rear heat was enough to keep the cab warm.
When I looked deeper into it today, I cycled A/C on/off to watch underhood heater core shutoff valve operate(proves vacuum present underhood at valve), and opened glove box, and felt front heater core when calling for heat(proves coolant temp/flow up front). Reach over the top of the core box. It's hot. EATC DTCs were 22e, and 66(same as lambo).
Blend door actuator did nothing when going from cooling to heating. It was stuck in position blocking off flow through the front heater core. The actuator was above the heater core box. 4 pins hold it to its base. 2 in front(red arrows), and 2 in rear. Squeeze the pins, and gently pry up with a flat screwdriver between the actuator, and base(blue arrow). Pry gently towards the back, and the rears release. Lift it straight up, as the blend door shaft is attached to the actuator module. No screws need to be removed to pull it.
Once removed, I pried the outer tabs open to look inside.
Found a couple missing teeth on one of the gears(explains clicking noise I've recently heard underdash), and it's got an electrical problem causing erratic operation. Actuator needs replacement.
Seeing that, I pulled the shaft from the actuator, installed it into the blend door, started the truck, and checked if its position changed front heat output. Rotating it CCW put the blend door to flow through the heater core. I replaced the shaft in the actuator in the CCW position, and reinstalled without plugging the actuator back in. Until I get a new part this week I'll have to control cab temp with flow rate, and zone position. No biggie. Full heat is available if needed. Ordered Dorman 604-272 for EATC, and I'll post back if it fits.
While I was in there I removed the core box cover. Coil was clean. Put it all back, and glovebox wouldn't close completely. If you remove the core cover, the upper right corner does not just lay on the face of the box. The corner of the cover slides behind the corner of the box. The core box is flexible enough to manipulate into the cover without removing the lowest 2 cover screws.
Sent from my XT1060 using IB AutoGroup
While driving blowers were fine, rear heat was fine(proves coolant flow/temp), and front zone control worked fine(proves vacuum present under dash). Rear heat was enough to keep the cab warm.
When I looked deeper into it today, I cycled A/C on/off to watch underhood heater core shutoff valve operate(proves vacuum present underhood at valve), and opened glove box, and felt front heater core when calling for heat(proves coolant temp/flow up front). Reach over the top of the core box. It's hot. EATC DTCs were 22e, and 66(same as lambo).
Blend door actuator did nothing when going from cooling to heating. It was stuck in position blocking off flow through the front heater core. The actuator was above the heater core box. 4 pins hold it to its base. 2 in front(red arrows), and 2 in rear. Squeeze the pins, and gently pry up with a flat screwdriver between the actuator, and base(blue arrow). Pry gently towards the back, and the rears release. Lift it straight up, as the blend door shaft is attached to the actuator module. No screws need to be removed to pull it.
Once removed, I pried the outer tabs open to look inside.
Found a couple missing teeth on one of the gears(explains clicking noise I've recently heard underdash), and it's got an electrical problem causing erratic operation. Actuator needs replacement.
Seeing that, I pulled the shaft from the actuator, installed it into the blend door, started the truck, and checked if its position changed front heat output. Rotating it CCW put the blend door to flow through the heater core. I replaced the shaft in the actuator in the CCW position, and reinstalled without plugging the actuator back in. Until I get a new part this week I'll have to control cab temp with flow rate, and zone position. No biggie. Full heat is available if needed. Ordered Dorman 604-272 for EATC, and I'll post back if it fits.
While I was in there I removed the core box cover. Coil was clean. Put it all back, and glovebox wouldn't close completely. If you remove the core cover, the upper right corner does not just lay on the face of the box. The corner of the cover slides behind the corner of the box. The core box is flexible enough to manipulate into the cover without removing the lowest 2 cover screws.
Sent from my XT1060 using IB AutoGroup
#20
Wow, I dunno, maybe because you didn't yell loud enough in your post? Maybe try making the font bigger along with all caps?? Because you know, us moderators always read every single post in every single thread.
Lemme know when you figure out a way to alert an Excursion moderator to a thread you think might fit the criteria for inclusion in the tech folder sticky. Oh wait, there's already a way listed for everyone to see, and it's already listed in the tech folder sticky thread.
Same goes for you too Brent. Feel free to PM one of the Excursions mods to let them know about a post or thread and it will be considered.
Stewart
Lemme know when you figure out a way to alert an Excursion moderator to a thread you think might fit the criteria for inclusion in the tech folder sticky. Oh wait, there's already a way listed for everyone to see, and it's already listed in the tech folder sticky thread.
Stewart
#21
Hey everyone, new to FTE, can anyone help with heater problems on my 2000 Ford Excursion. We have no heat or ac up front but, the back controls for the passengers still work. They get heat just fine, but in Montana, where it was -17 degrees yesterday, we need heat on the windshield to keep our breath from turning to ice and making it very difficult to see the stupid deer who jump out in front of you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike
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