Replacing oil cooler and egr cooler this weekend, need detailed instructions!
#16
Between the great writeups on FTE and the writeup at the following link Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum it sure is making the job a lot easier for me. Mine is all tore down, oil cooler is rebuilt and now I am waiting on gaskets from the dealer. I really want to start putting things back together but I have to make the EGR delete mods first. Good luck I hope the link I provided helps, I know it helped me. There is also a thread titled "my $68.17 full EGR delete" that Scott posted. He made a great writeup on how to delete the egr cooler on the cheap. I followed his instructions with a few, ok a lot of questions answered by him but I am almost there. If you have any questions, let me know as I am in the middle of it right now and could help if you need advice. Good luck
#17
EGR SYSTEM REMOVAL
Getting started
Drain the coolant out of the Radiator, and disconnect the batteries. Then start taking things apart, First remove the front part of the air intake, then the intercooler lines (7/16 deep well socket). Then removed the Degas bottle (10mm socket) after it was out of the way you can get to the 2 bolts that hold the air intake elbow on the turbo in place (8mm socket). Then use a 1/2” drive ratchet in the tensioner pulley to remove the belt, once removed unplug and remove the alternator (13mm socket and 10mm socket).
After that, either drain the oil or I believe you can just loosen the cap on the oil filter and it will let the oil drain out of the housing. Then take the fuel lines off (11/16 wrench and I used a crescent wrench for the main supply lines) and remove the oil filter/ fuel filter housing. (Either a #40 or 45 hex head socket). Then remove the clamps on both side of the turbo (deep well 7/16 socket) the exhaust manifolds Y pipe clamp on the turbo can be a real pain in the butt!! Just try and stay patient and keep messing with it and it will break loose. Note: if you have aftermarket exhaust it would be easier to completely remove the down pipe. Once the clamps are removed take the 2 bolts out of the oil supply line on top of the turbo (10mm wrench) then take the 3 bolts out of the turbo (10mm socket). There are 2 on the front and one on the back of the turbo, it is on the driver’s side of the turbo and I found it easier to get with a ¼” ratchet reaching around the back of the turbo from the down pipe side. Then its time to remove the turbo, use a pry bar and wiggle it free from the mount. You have to hold your teeth just right and say the perfect combination of 4 letter words but it will wiggle free eventually. Once the turbo is removed take the 4 bolts out of the turbo mount (10mm socket) and remove the mount and turbo oil drain tube.
Now it is time to remove the intake, take the 2 bolts out of the egr cooler at the front of the intake (deep well 10mm socket) and remove the clamp that holds the egr cooler to the up pipe. I just cut the small blue/orange hose that connects the egr cooler to the oil cooler with a knife. Then loosen all the bolts on top of the intake (10mm socket and wrench) try and keep up with were the bolts that have extra threads sticking up to hold down elec. connections. Note: on the far back right intake bolt there is what I assume to be a ground wire that is held down with a 10mm nut make sure you remember to reinstall it on assembly. There are also 2 bolt the hold the fan shroud to the intake that need to be removed (deep well 15mm socket) and one bolt and clamp holding a fuel line (10mm socket). Remove the intake you might have to tap the Egr cooler out of the bottom of the intake with a hammer. Make sure as you are sliding the intake out that its not caught on any wires or the intake gasket O-rings.
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#18
Thank you so much. We are installing an Elite Diesel delete kit but the teardown instructions were not with it. Sent the rest of the instructions though. Wasn't sure if I needed to drain the oil and pull the filter housings up there.
Thanks again and if there's anymore insite to teardown, I'd sure appreciate it.
Thanks again and if there's anymore insite to teardown, I'd sure appreciate it.
#19
Thank you so much. We are installing an Elite Diesel delete kit but the teardown instructions were not with it. Sent the rest of the instructions though. Wasn't sure if I needed to drain the oil and pull the filter housings up there.
Thanks again and if there's anymore insite to teardown, I'd sure appreciate it.
Thanks again and if there's anymore insite to teardown, I'd sure appreciate it.
#20
#25
You don't! I'm certain that flushing after the oil cooler change is what plugged up my new oil cooler, within 100 miles I might add. In my opinion, when changing an oil cooler (assuming that it's not pushing oil into the coolant) you are FAR better off flushing prior to the removal of the cooler. Do the complete flush, removing the heater hoses and both block plugs. The second time around, I even removed the radiator and reverse flushed that directly for 30 minutes. I had much better success flushing before than after.
#26
#27
Yeah, it will set an EGR flow error code. P0401, if I remember correctly. One way you can avoid that is to just weld up the exhaust inlet in your cooler and leave your valve intact. It will continue to function as normal, but without any exhaust going through. Another option would be to get a tuner (BPD makes one) that can turn the light off. In fact, I'm pretty sure BPD's delete kit allows you to turn the cooler off and on with their tuner, so if you had emissions you could turn it on for testing and then turn it back off when you're done.
#28
Need some advise. Have gray milk shake consistency fluid in the coolant tank of my 2004 6.0. I am assuming a oil cooler failure. (Made it to 100,000 miles before it failed). If so how do you clean the cooling system as if you do it with the old cooler installed would it not continue to leak oil into the coolant? If I do it after I repair it, will I not contaminate the new cooler or if I put a after market cooler on it, will I not contaminate the new EGR cooler?
#29
#30
Don't you mean "replace the cooler AFTER cleaning the coolant system?