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I probably missed the answer to my ? somewhere but are the 7 pin FICMs OK?

Since they were the earlier FICMs were they soldered with lead solder?

DSMMH

 

Sorry, I just saw this Mark. My truck is early 04 build, late 03 motor build and my FICM had the 4-pins inside. IDK, maybe it wasn't the original FICM? Who knows, all I care about is it's running now, and running good, even on the stock tune (for the winter)
EDIT: From the tech folder- 3.) On 2003 and early 2004 trucks, you will see 7 screw heads under the cover. On 2004 and later trucks you will see 4 screws.
Any ideas?

 

Thanks so much, Dr Quad!! Got the PDF, going to try it now,... will let you know.

 

25 minutes to test and put back together. your directions were very easy to understand, Thanks a lot! Checked out at 48 volts, so I'm still trying to figure out my problem. On to other threads.

 

Mine turned out to be a bad FICM, reading on the Auto Enginuity scan tool indicated FICM performance issue code was P0611. Voltage was reading 40 volts engine running or not running. That's as low as the scan tool reads (that needs improvement). Removed the FICM, this takes a little time and there's not a lot of room to work to remove the back mounting bolts. Did the resolder job that DrQuad outlined on the 24 solder points reassembled and fired right up.

Voltage now running at 48 and 48.5 volts. No codes from the scan tool. Good to go! Love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for posting the detailed procedure DrQuad!

 

I have the below issue with my FICM... I applies the PROCEDURE for 4 SCREW FICM

1a. Take a multi-meter set on DC volts and connect the ground lead to battery negative, and with the key ON measure the voltage at the screw on your right—closest to the driver’s side fender. Do not let the probe short against the case! The voltage should be right at 48 volts. Anything between 47 and 49 is good.

1b. Have an assistant cycle the key and measure the voltage during the initial key-on buzz test. Voltage should not drop below 46 volts.

2. Next measure the voltage while cranking the engine. If voltage stays at or above 45-46 volts, the FICM is fine. Abnormally low battery voltage can give a false low FICM voltage reading, so make sure your batteries are good.

the result in (1a) 48v , 11v, 0v & 0v
the result in (1b) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v
the result in (2) 48v , ?, 0v & 0v

I removed the FICM from the truck and tray to repair it but the capacitors it so tied I feel that it's ok .....
My question, since the output voltage are lower than 48V .... If I replace all the capacitors do you think that it will be improved or not.
If not what I should do ?????

 

Are you saying the capacitors are tight? One side of the cap. could still be soldered on. I would resolder all of the mentioned caps. and retest.

 

So...I was testing my FICM and must have touched the case with the probe, precisely as the instructions say NOT to do.

I say this, not because I felt like I did, but that I saw a quick spark and so MUST have (it's a tight fit to get in there - that's my story and I'm sticking to it).

Can anyone tell me what I likely fried?

I saw voltage readings in the mid 20's when cranking prior to my stupidity, so I think that the FICM was shot just anyway, but now I wonder if the re-solder trick will get me where I need to be.

 

Just an update. I evidently didn't fry anything by shorting out the pin. I pulled out the FICM, took it apart, used a heat gun to remove the amber staking compound, re-soldered all the connections, installed that little resistor, used the heat gun again to melt the staking compound back around all the components once more and am good to go.

The truck runs like a million bucks again and I have 58.3 volts.

Another bennie - fuel economy. I am getting 2-3mpg better than I had been. Woo hoo!

I think that the problem was those flat little resistors, since two of four were loose, but perhaps it was more than that.

Quick other question: I saw that some other trucks seem to have a rubber bushing at the four circles that the FICM connection bolts go through. Where can I get these? My Excursion didn't have them - only the two metal hold-down plates. More dampening resistance has to be good thing.

 

Please keep in touch regularly about the results you're getting with the 58V's.

The difference in FICM mounting is a difference in year models and mounts. Yours is isolated at the bottom instead of the top and I don't think you can add more mounts the way it is now. I tried--LOL.

 

thanks for the info

 

I had my 2003 F250 in for a cold start problem. They told me the FICM was bad. I only had a cold crank voltage of 19V. I got online and did a little digging, and came across this excellent guide for fixing the FICM. I told the dealership to order the part, but that I was going to take the truck home and try another fix. I resoldered the leads on all the Caps. On the 03, the resisters are different than depicted in the pdf, but all went well. The truck started right up this morning, and I am calling to tell the dealer to send the part back. Thanks again DrQuad, you rock.

Oh, BTW, this was a 7 pin FICM, so your process does work with those as well. As I noted, the resisters are a different type and in a different location, but they are the only resisters on the board, so they are not too hard to find. I should have taken a picture, but didn't.

 

Unfortunately, either this process just didn't work, or there's something else wrong.
My '06 F350 6.0l had 'fuel' issues like white smoke, occasionally bogging down for a few seconds as if starved for fuel, and so on. A couple weeks ago it simply didn't start.

I replaced the batteries and fuel filters, still no change. I ran across this post and pulled the FICM unit. I found that someone had removed it before (I bought this truck used with 125k miles) because there was one bolt holding it on without any grommets. I assumed it was vibrated to death and continued with the repair procedure. There were minute cracks (rings) in the solder so after re-flowing I was sure it would work... not! Could it be that the unit is severely damaged beyond repair (and I should just order a new one)?

So my truck is still sitting in the driveway and I'm not sure where to go from here. HPOP maybe?

 

Check your voltages on the FICM. 48V is the magic number. If you are getting that, the FICM is not the likely culprit.