so i went from a blown up 1991 fuel injected efi motor to a 1974 carburated 351. tackling this task required alot of guess and check work. first i had to decide on weather i would try to use the stock in tank pumps or use a holley red pump on the rail. for those of you that dont know the stock pump could not be used because of the psi difference. "fuel injection requires 30- 60 psi depending on motor work, and a carb requires 6-9." so i do some research and find a regulator for my exact needs, areomotive made a regulator with a 6an inlet and a 8an return. so than i had to get rid of the stock return line and run a stainless 8an return line from the regulator to the tank. now that the return line was ran i needed a way to get it in the tank. so the stock return line on the tank got cut off and a steel bung by earls got welded on top and was connected with the a AN fitting. so i thought that would be it but guess again. i go to start the truck and the pump turns on than rite off. there was no computer to tell the pump to stay on so i had to go to my local scrap yard and get a dummy comp. to get the pupm to stay on. i did not use the stock wiring off the pump to power it. i ran a new power wire to a switch and a switched ignition with a relay and a fuesable link in between. now came the ignition. points are horrible so i tried a conversion kit and it was garbage. i went with a ready to run distributor by msd. running the coil & ballast resistor was also tricky, finding power and switched ignitions took a little while. i then ran the eletric choke to the switched ing. on the altenator. that pretty much concluded my build
msd ready to run distributor # 8354
ballast resistor # 8214
*** BIG TRUCKS = BIG BUCKS ***

 

Nice write up Frank.
I think this will help guys decide which way to go...EFI or Carb.

 

The best setup for the electric fuel pump is a Fuel Pump Safety Pressure Switch that connects to the oil sender port. While cranking the engine, it sends power directly to the relay to turn on the pump and once the oil pressure reaches 5 psi, it will keep the pump energized once you release the key. If the engine happens to stall, the pump turns off when the oil pressure drops. I used this switch and also retained the inertia switch so the fuel pump would shutdown in the event of an accident.
I would not run an electric fuel pump without this oil pressure safety switch.
http://www.holley.com/12-810.asp



For the electric choke, use the white wire at the alternator. It's the stator wire and only outputs power while the alt is turning. That way, if you are sitting with the key in the RUN position without the engine running, it will not heat up the choke.

 

yes the white wire that is the one i used we sat and probed with a test light till we found power only when the truck was running.

 

you could have just used the white wire that went to the fuel injected dissy, that is what i am using for my e-curve dissy and electric choke