Like many other Superduty owners, my used F-250 came without the key that fits the "anti-theft" adapter on my spare tire winch. I have dodged the bullet on needing it (had to use a 12V tire pump to get to the nearest tire store once , but never stranded), but I thought I better do something before my luck ran out.

I have read several threads about getting the spare tire down without the key, but the necessary information is scatterd through several posts and I decided to post a complete start-to-finish procedure for this job.

Tools:
1) 3/8" square drive extension long enough to reach into the guide tube and clear the rear bumper with whatever you use to turn it with. I used a 1/2" drive extension and reducer to 3/8" drive.

2) Drive handle to fit the extension. I used a "speed handle," which is a hand-crank unit.

3) 9/16" bolt extractor that drives onto a bolt head an digs in with teeth to turn the bolt. I used a cheap one from Harbor Freight.

4) Hammer to drive the extractor on to the adapter. I used a large dead-blow hammer to keep from damaging the extension.

5) Socket set or wrenches to remove the two bolts that hold the winch onto the crossmember. I think the bolts have 7/16" hex heads (I forgot to write this down).

6) Pry bars or screwdrivers to remove the adapter from the winch.

The photos referenced in the text are located in my albums under "Spare Winch."

Start by locating the pickup on a flat surface with chocks and the parking brake set.

Place the 9/16" bolt extractor (Photo 0072) on the end of your extension and insert it into the guide tube, slipping the extractor over the adapter. Drive the extractor firmly onto the adapter with the dead blow hammer. Use the square drive handle to turn the winch counterclockwise to lower the tire. Remove the extension and the handle. The extractor will likely remain on the winch adapter. You will retreive it later. (Photo 0060)

Once you have lowered the tire to the ground, unhook the cable from the wheel and turn the winch clockwise until the cable is extending about 8 inches from the winch. It needs to be that far out in order to manuever the winch out of the crossmember. (Photo 0054)

Observe the guide tube hooked to the winch. (Photo 0055)

Grab the guide tube with your hands and twist it while pulling it away from the winch. If it doesn't come out fairly easily, wait until you get the winch loose and move the whole unit as close as possible to the guide tube hole in the crossmember and try again. The tube is held on by two lugs and guide ribs, so you have to twist it enough to clear these lugs. (Photo 0069)


Remove the two bolts holding the winch to the crossmember, notice the two ears that help position the winch. (Photo 0053)

Manuever the winch to release it from the tab furthest from the guide tube. (Photo 0056)

Manuever the winch to release it from the other tab, keeping the first tab from reengaging the winch. If the guide tube is still connected, remove it now.

Manuever the winch out of the crossmember by moving it away from the mounting hole enough to slip the cable and wheel cradle up through the hole and out the far side of the crossmember, then following them with the winch. (Photo 0070)

Once the winch is out, you can pry off the extractor. (Photo 0060)

Now pry off the adaptor that has caused you so much time and effort. Notice that the lock recess is very small and shallow. Really poor design! (Photo 0062)

Now you can start putting everything back together.

Place the winch in first, taking it past the hole and work the cable down the hole. Work the winch back into the tabs, drive side first, and replace the bolts using anti-seize. Snap the guide tube back onto the winch.

Using the jack handle or the 3/8" square drive extension, lower the winch cable. Apply grease to the cable and end fitting for corrosion prevention, then hook it back into the spare and winch the spare back into place. YOUR'E DONE!!!!

NOTES:
The spare tire assembly comes down so easily that I am going to put another lock, such as a bolt, to keep the spare in place even if the cable breaks. I will post that when I get it done.

The spare comes out so easily, it changes my attitude toward working on things in this area.

 

great post, maybe the mods can add it to the tech folders, reps to ya.

 

I jst bought a 2008 F250 and I didnt get any of the bars, lug wrench ect for changing the spare tire. All I got was the jack. What kind of problems am I going to encounter

 

Get a bottle jack and lug wrench from auto parts store and you will be fine...check the rating on the jack.

As far as lowering the spare then you will have to overcome that another way.

 

Great post... reps to you, and subscribing in case I ever loose my key.

Thanks!

 

Unless Ford changed the spare tire winch in later years, you should be able to remove your adapter using my instructions.

Go to a wrecking yard or ask Craigslist advertisers who are parting out Ford trucks or SUV's if they have the jack handle and extensions. Usually they sell that stuff cheap. The exception seems to be the Superduty jack handle and extensions. For some reason (I suspect because so many Prior Owners lose or throw them away) Superduty jack stuff is much higher priced than say, Explorer jack parts. The extensions are somewhat different lengthwise but all you really need is about 24" of extension and the lug wrench/jack handle to turn it if you just want to lower the spare. If your want to use your original jack, get enough extension parts to reach out from under the pickup a safe distance. I think the original extensions (2) were about 24" long. Make sure that you get the part that engages in the jack!

When you are looking for jack parts, remember, you don't need a "2008 Superduty" part, just one that fits and works. Even a one-piece handle like the older trucks had will work if you have a place to store it.

Once you get the handle and extensions, try to lower the spare. If the extension engages the winch and cranks, someone already removed the adapter, and you won't need to do the job described above!

 

not to be a wise guy but are all the tools - tire iron , crank
located with jack or located somewhere else
like under seat or hood on an 08

 

not to be a wise guy but can someone with an 08 chime in
and tell where tools are located in case he missed
like i said not to be a wise guy

tried to edit now who looks dumb err

 

And here I thought this thread was about the 2000-2003 Tundra owners that are being told to remove the spare from under their frame because the frame is rusting through and they might drop the spare on the highway

 

On my '08 crew cab, the tools are near the jack, on the PS behind the rear seat. The "key" tool was in the glove box, so I moved it back there with everything else.

 

Yes the stuff should be under the rear seat. My stuff is missing

 

What he said! Thanks.

 

So i'm posting this is another option to the one described above. I don't necessarily think it's a BETTER option, but never-the-less...

Instead of removing the adapter all together, you can also weld a hex nut onto the end of the adapter so instead of using the square end of a 3/8" socket extension to drop the tire, you actually have a socket on the end.

After reading this post, I went out to check my truck and found that the previous owner had done this. I think doing this is pretty unnecessary, because it looks like he took off the adapter first, welded on a hex nut, and put the adapter back on, which just seems like too much work. It works fine, but he used a 13/16" nut... If you're going to go this route, I would recommend using a smaller one, because trying to get a 13/16" socket through the hole in the bumper was a bit of a challenge.

I have since removed the hole adapter/nut piece because it seems easier, with fewer pieces to worry about (lose), but I thought I would share in case anyone else wanted to go this route. I think really the only benefit from this would be for someone who, for whatever reason, can't remove the adapter, although I don't know why you wouldn't be able to.

 

i used a 9/16 12point socket on mine. i didnt have the security key for i hammered the socket over the security piece. i now have a 3/8 drive fitting sticking out so all i need is a few extentions and either my drill or a ratchet. the socket was like .50 at harbor freight and is alot more convient to me. i could have pulled out the security key but i figured for my use it would be alot more precise in the dark as now i can click it in and lower it

 

I just heard of that recall the other day. A guy on another site (from NJ)has his 2000 Tundra in the dealer now for the recall. They offered him 150% of bluebook value or replace the entire frame of the truck. He said the frame, spring perches and everything was in horrible shape and the dealer didn't want him driving it. They gave him a new Tundra to drive in the meantime. It does seem Toyota goes out of their way to please the customer on some occasions.