Plow mounting questions
#1
Plow mounting questions
Hey guys, its been a while. I finnally started mounting up my plow to my 87 f250. its got a 6.9l with the ttb front end. I got a plow that was not meant to be on the truck and started cutting and welding. its the type of plow that the plow mount stays attached to the truck year round. which is fine...its a work truck. so anyways, i got the plow frame mounted to the frame of the truck but now in stuck. as far as the lower mounting points (the ones that go from the lowest most point on the mount back) i dont know where to go with them. anything would help. especially pics. snow season is almost here and i need to get it on the truck. thanks in advance.
#2
#3
the plow control in the cab says MONARCH. Its power angle left and right and there is a separate hydraulic pump that i mounting under the hood and is electric. the plow works fine. at least it did when i pulled it of the 78 f250 i got it from. but down where the plow mounts up to the plow frame. there should be two supports that run backwards at an upward angle. they should take most of the umph when you slam into some snow. with the TTB i dont know how to fab anything up. anything i try would be whacked by the steering bars
#4
I made my own. For the brace you are talking about, I ran a piece of angle across the rear of the plow mount, and I use short pieces of 2 inch angle iron up on the frame. The one on the driver's side uses one of the bolts for the steering box. Both of these short 2 inch pieces of angle bolt at the frame were it starts to become boxed.
Once I mounted the angle iron on the frame, and on the plow mount, I then connect the two together with some more angle and welded it together on the truck. They both miss the steering linkage.
When you are doing this, make sure when the plow is down, the pivot pin that the plow angles on is plumb. If you make your truck mount too high, then the outer corners of the plow will tend to "dig in" when you angle the plow.
Once I mounted the angle iron on the frame, and on the plow mount, I then connect the two together with some more angle and welded it together on the truck. They both miss the steering linkage.
When you are doing this, make sure when the plow is down, the pivot pin that the plow angles on is plumb. If you make your truck mount too high, then the outer corners of the plow will tend to "dig in" when you angle the plow.
#6
try craigs list
i would search craigs list
if not for exact mounts whats refered to as push plates
at least the items that contain pix to get an idea of what you
need to fab
i know from searching craigs that there's a ton of push plates available
lots of trucks out there without plows but have mounts still installed
maybe something that fits but from different plow mfg. that you could
graft to work with your application
good luck
if not for exact mounts whats refered to as push plates
at least the items that contain pix to get an idea of what you
need to fab
i know from searching craigs that there's a ton of push plates available
lots of trucks out there without plows but have mounts still installed
maybe something that fits but from different plow mfg. that you could
graft to work with your application
good luck
#7
i would search craigs list
if not for exact mounts whats refered to as push plates
at least the items that contain pix to get an idea of what you
need to fab
i know from searching craigs that there's a ton of push plates available
lots of trucks out there without plows but have mounts still installed
maybe something that fits but from different plow mfg. that you could
graft to work with your application
good luck
if not for exact mounts whats refered to as push plates
at least the items that contain pix to get an idea of what you
need to fab
i know from searching craigs that there's a ton of push plates available
lots of trucks out there without plows but have mounts still installed
maybe something that fits but from different plow mfg. that you could
graft to work with your application
good luck
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#8
who has a diesel only frame
the only reason they dont suggest putting a plow on diesel is
the added weight
#9
It's not the frame. There is a diesel only radiator support for the heavy duty radiator that most of them come with, and it hangs further down than the gas radiator supports, so the regular plow brackets don't fit. I believe one of them that says their brackets do not fit a diesel is Meyer.
#10
My Snoway has a diesel specific bracket, for the exact reason Franklin stated.
On the 86 the diesel radiator support sets 6" below where a gasser radiator sets.
So the bracket has to be made to clear the radiator bottom.
Frame has nothing to do with it.
Back to the original question, from the search I did last night, Monarch probably made the motor and controls, but not the plow.
Snoway actually uses some Monarch power units on some their plows.
One thing that is rather inportant, when the plow is down, the A frame from the plow to the mount has to be very close to level.
If it is not that way, full angle left or right will cause one end of the plow to dig in and in extreme cases the other end will not even touch the ground.
A short time plowing that way will destroy a cutting edge.
Also check your cutting edge, you want the cutting edge on the ground with the plow blade well clear of the ground.
Cutting edges are cheap when compared to a new blade.
A few pictures of the blade and mount and we may be able to figure out which one it is.
Another good place to look for info would be www.plowsite.com
On the 86 the diesel radiator support sets 6" below where a gasser radiator sets.
So the bracket has to be made to clear the radiator bottom.
Frame has nothing to do with it.
Back to the original question, from the search I did last night, Monarch probably made the motor and controls, but not the plow.
Snoway actually uses some Monarch power units on some their plows.
One thing that is rather inportant, when the plow is down, the A frame from the plow to the mount has to be very close to level.
If it is not that way, full angle left or right will cause one end of the plow to dig in and in extreme cases the other end will not even touch the ground.
A short time plowing that way will destroy a cutting edge.
Also check your cutting edge, you want the cutting edge on the ground with the plow blade well clear of the ground.
Cutting edges are cheap when compared to a new blade.
A few pictures of the blade and mount and we may be able to figure out which one it is.
Another good place to look for info would be www.plowsite.com
#11
#12
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#13
Well i found one way to mount it. doesnt look the best and i dont think it would be as strong as it could be but it is an option. 84 f250 if you had some times to take some pics, you would be my savior. its supposed to snow this weekend and im sitting with an unusable plow and a whole bunch of drawings and measurements.
#14
Notice plow bracket.
Removed for repairs.
Bottom view.
In the last picture the top bolts to a steel plate that drops down from the front of the frame horns.
Solid plate side to side about 12" down from the top of the frame rails.
The bottom plow reciever is about 9" front to back.
On both sides at the back (bottom in picture), braces run right straight back up to the frame.
Those braces only cleared the tie rods by about 1/4" as you cycled the steering from left to right at the closest place.
Trying to think, when the IFS axle was under there I think the joint on the pitman arm was what was close to hitting.
I know those don't really help since all of my hydraulics are mounted on the plow A frame, but the bottom of your plow will still have to mount something like that.
Mevers uses an angle brace since all the pressure down there is from pushing.
Mine pushes and lifts from down there as well as has hydraulic down pressure on the blade.
Three pins and one electrical connection take me from the top picture to the bottom picture.
#15