I purchased a procomp stage I 6 inch lift for my 2008 f350 4x4 and was never really happy with the rear setup. The system claims 6 in the front and 4 in the rear to level the vehicle. It comes with 2 sets of different blocks for use with either an f250 or f350 and an add leaf for each side. My truck being an f350 I used the smaller of the 2 blocks (1/2 inch I believe) which caused the front to sit slightly higher then the front so I swapped in the other set (for the f250) which basically leveled the truck. With this setup though it causes the wheels to not be centered in the wheel wells from front to back which I have lived with till now...

Now my real problem..... come January it will be illeagal to run stacked blocks here and an inspection will become manditory on all lifted vehicles. My system has the factory set stacked with the 1' procomp ones so i'm assuming this will not pass.

My desire now, since I have to do something anyways, is to lift the back 5 inches to get it closer to the original rake specs. I plan to do this with a set of fabricated lift blocks.

Question 1
Do I get rid of the add a leafs and just fab a larger block to make up for the extra lift?

Question 2
Do I taper the blocks to achieve a better pinion angle or just leave them flat?

Question 3
Will tapering the blocks re-center the wheels in the wheel wells from front to back? I know that if I add this extra inch to the existing setup it causes the tires to rub on the mudflaps and it looks rediculous.

Question 4
How much taper is required for a 4-5 inch block?

I realize that some of you are going to say do away with blocks and go with a new springs. I really don't want to do this as I can build blocks for cheap and I want to incorporate a set of ladder bars in this block set-up in the near future.

Anybody that is knowledgeable in this area or with a similar purchased setup care to help me out? Thanks in advance.

 

I really have to suggest the new springs. I know they cost more but its better in the long run.

I can't give much more information on the topic because i've never really seen what these trucks look like under the body lol.

 

Buy a ProComp and a BDS AAL, they should be different lengths. 4" factory block plus two AALs should net you enough lift, maybe add the overload on the bottom if you don't already have one. If that doesn't, spend the $$$ on a set of lift springs.

 

If you are dead set on blocks then why not just buy a block set? The kit probably cost $50 and they have the taper already.

 

Putting more AAL's in wont solve the fact that my wheels are not centered in the wheel wells and those cheap aftermarket blocks don't have the bump stops incorporated into them. Pretty much stuck with the icon ones which do or building my own which will cost me next to nothing... or getting new springs which probably wont get me the rake I want without adding some kind of block anyways....

 

but new springs WILL get you the rake you want if you order the right lift setup.

 

enough about springs...

 

I don't see any way that blocks will help you re-center your wheel in the fender. There are zero-rates but that would make two blocks total again. Seems to me that you are set on making your own blocks. What do you plan to make them out of? How are you thinking of doing it? How do you plan to get both blocks the same? Pinion angle is simple math.

 

This will be interesting to see where this goes...Sorry id use springs there is reasons people dont like blocks.

 

Not a fan of blocks, but you obviously don't want to spend money on lift springs so I will offer this suggestion:

Shackle flip with stock block. Then relocate the front hanger backwards to get the wheels centered in the wheel well. I'm not sure anyone makes a shackle flip kit for these newer trucks specifically, but I'm sure you can make the sky manufacturing or ruffstuff kits work with a little work.

good luck..

 

yeah id use a shackle flip if you are deadset on staying away from springs...pinion angle has to be accounted for so if you fabricate your blocks anyway you will need to angle them, especially with how much lift you are planning...but from my understanding a shackle flip will address this issue because it lowers the rear of the spring which will angle the pinion upward...it will probably help center the wheels too...but i have a question, why are the wheels not center in the first place?

 

Heres what I'm trying to duplicate:

One Up Offroad

There are a ton of guys using these with nothing but good things to say about them. This includes trucks that are making upwards of 600 RWHP and are used for truck pulls and drag racing.

I've seen quite a few pictures of trucks with these on them and the wheels appear centered in the wheel wells. I'm wondering if this is achieved by the taper or if an offset center pin system is used. It doesn't really say anywhere.

These run about 1100 beans, and where i'm from your probably looking at 1500-1600 to get them here with taxes and shipping.

I'm going to have a lot of time on my hands over the next 2 months so I figured I'd build a set.

 

The reason the wheels arn't centered is because on the superduty, not sure about other systems, the rear of the leafs are hung a fair bit higher in the back then they are in the front. by using a block you move the axle away from the leaf center point and in affect move the wheels back slightly.

 

Yeah sky does make a kit for the superduty's $169
www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=186
It's a 4.5" design and would fit this app.

 

another canadian eh...shipping up here is killer eh...ive been waiting 2 months for tires!...my SAS took 6 months cause i had to order nearly everything and it always took at least 3 weeks to get here

i never noticed that...mind you ive never used a block over 2 "... and that one was factory hehe...its not there anymore


go that way ^^^^

**** load cheaper, no block needed, means no ladder bar needed, less shipping cause its smaller, way better way to go...probably center the wheels again too