How can I tell if my power valve is bad?
#16
#17
Everything is ported off the carb body with the exception of the brake booster, obviously. That's how it was when I got it. I don't have a vacuum canister however. Should I get one and if so, what will run off of it? Not sure that would help but maybe it would alleviate the loss of vacuum under hard braking.
#19
What is 'everything'? Only the distributor should be on the ported vacuum source.
Vacuum canister is only used for certain components like cruise control and emissions.
I find it hard to believe you lose vacuum while hard braking. Do you hear a hissing noise when you apply the brakes? Do the pedal comes up on its own?
Vacuum canister is only used for certain components like cruise control and emissions.
I find it hard to believe you lose vacuum while hard braking. Do you hear a hissing noise when you apply the brakes? Do the pedal comes up on its own?
#20
O.K. "everything" is an overstatement. All ports are plugged with the exception of the vac. advance.
As loud as my engine is....I'd be lucky to hear a GE J404 screaming next to me. LOL. So...no, I can't hear any hisses. I'll try checking the booster on startup today.
I'll also try the torch trick and I'll post my results.
As loud as my engine is....I'd be lucky to hear a GE J404 screaming next to me. LOL. So...no, I can't hear any hisses. I'll try checking the booster on startup today.
I'll also try the torch trick and I'll post my results.
#21
#22
The brake booster tested OK today. I haven't replace the line yet but I cannot detect a leak with starting fluid or by eye or ear.
When I started the engine it took off immediately to 2000+ rpm and kept racing. Choke pulloff is working fine and is calibrated to factory specs. Choke does open ok and once the throttle is depressed it drops to low idle ok. It seems my linkage is over rotating past the high step of the cam on startup. I didn't know that was possible. Difficult to see what's going on as there is a baffle or shield around the choke area which I'll have to remove to see better.
This thing was performing flawlessly on the bench when I initially set everything up and ran beautifully for a while on the engine. Now all these issues keep popping up. I'm really growing tired...it shouldn't be this hard for a simple 2bbl.
When I started the engine it took off immediately to 2000+ rpm and kept racing. Choke pulloff is working fine and is calibrated to factory specs. Choke does open ok and once the throttle is depressed it drops to low idle ok. It seems my linkage is over rotating past the high step of the cam on startup. I didn't know that was possible. Difficult to see what's going on as there is a baffle or shield around the choke area which I'll have to remove to see better.
This thing was performing flawlessly on the bench when I initially set everything up and ran beautifully for a while on the engine. Now all these issues keep popping up. I'm really growing tired...it shouldn't be this hard for a simple 2bbl.
#23
I found several things wrong so far. First of which was the vacuum tree which has a metal fitting screwed into the back of the manifold was not screwed in all the way. In fact, it was swinging loose as a goose back there. I removed the oil pressure switch and put teflon tape on the fitting and screwed it in until bottoming out. All the vacuum caps were good and I reinstalled the oil pressure switch.
My other issue is this....I had to use a pair of water pump pliers to remove the oil pressure switch....I assume a stubby or offset wrench is needed? Otherwise, is there any other trick to use? I think it's leaking and I cannot tighten it enough by hand.
My other issue is this....I had to use a pair of water pump pliers to remove the oil pressure switch....I assume a stubby or offset wrench is needed? Otherwise, is there any other trick to use? I think it's leaking and I cannot tighten it enough by hand.
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