Is copper ok to make lines from fuel pump to carb and distributor vac advance to manifold?

 

Copper is suspectible to fatigue and crack from vibration. Not for fuel or brakeline use. You could use it for distributor vacuum advance if you really wanted. Steel line is available from local parts stores in a variety of lengths.

 

I don't know of anything that vibrates more then my Bobber and I'm running copper line for the fuel. That said I didn't go down to the local hardware store and buy the stuff they have on the shelve. I bought the good stuff from McMaster Carr designed for water coolers frig's that vibrate all day long. I also noticed that the lines on my truck are copper coated steel. I think they used the copper coating on these lines for better heat dissipation, you know for vapor loc. You checkout the Bobber in my gallary under Kool Stuff

 

Many grades of copper tubing easily work harden. I won't pretend to know which ones are which. I know some is used for refrigeration tubing. It's not likely the same as the soft stuff you buy at a hardware store. In any event, a piece of steel line is only a few bucks so why take a chance? Copper is definitely not OK for brake lines. I believe pressures in excess of 500PSI exist in some brake systems.

 

ACR (refrigeration) copper tubing is annealed, but it will still work harden from vibration. A bike's fuel system runs at about 0.3 psig, a car's system is at least 5x - 10x that. Copper is used extensively in Europe for brake lines, but it is far from ordinary tubing. It is made from many layers of wound sheet copper with brazed construction. This shows the concept, but in steel:

Bulk double wall steel tubing by TI Automotive

 

Good info Ross. I attended a Raybestos Brake seminar very early in my career. He discussed some of these issues but all I really remember were his warnings not to just start winging it wnen it came to brake plumbing repairs.

As far as fuel lines, I will always be paranoid. I watched a guy's Camaro burn to the ground 25 years ago. The trunk lid survived and that is it. I had recently installed a fresh motor and a fuel line burst the next day. I obviously missed a flaw in the line somehow and it tormented me for a long time. Only car I ever destroyed in 30 years. Then I married the guy's sister a year later so I guess it all worked out.

 

I was looking at ease of bending and flaring with copper. It's a long way around the engine with lots of bends. When I was plumbing the brakes my local autoparts house offered a type of brake line that was more expensive but said to be easier to work. I went with the standard stuff and did ok once I figured out how to use a bender. Good thing though there was extra tubing in the roll!! Thanks for the input. Bob

 

Whatever you do, DON'T use aluminum tubing!

 

I intend to use this cunifer alloy which is used in European brake lines. Apparently its real easy to use and they will rent you a flaring tool for $25/- week. I think I will be able to do all the lines on my F100 for $150 Check out the video at Federal Hill Trading Co.

Chris

 

AX I wouldn't even know where to get aluminum tubing.
Chris, My son gave me a bender for Christmas made by Imperial and I bought a tubing plier from Eastwood. I recommend both for your brake plumbing.

 

I don't know either, but the PO used it for fuel line on my truck. When I went to remove it, it broke into a 1/2 doz pieces.

 

Jegs sells this Aluminum fuel line. I have it on my 56. If there is a issue with this I would like to know. Its been on my truck for 13 years.
brian...

JEGS Fuel Line - Aluminum - JEGS

 

I had some on a race car many years ago, and have seen it on others at the strip. See the discussion on copper tubing above. There are many kinds of aluminum. If I was going to use it, I would be buying it from a major vendor, and it would be specifically identified as appropriate. For me it's just too easy to use steel and know you won't have an issue.

 

I suppose if the aluminum tubing is supported at regular short intervals along it's length and any ends that aren't supported are kept as short as possible so as not to flex or vibrate the aluminum might be OK. A PO had added an extra tank in the rear of my panel (that someone removed before I came along but left the tubing and the switch valve in place) and simply ran the aluminum tubing back to front thru the crossmembers. When I removed it and the valve it snapped at every fitting and crossmember as I pulled on it.

 

Thanks for the info. I will likely not change out the tubing on this truck but I think I may use steel lines when I run them on the panel. Again thanks for the input.
brian...