89 F150 4.9 I6 M5OD 3.08 94K

Did the manually tranny deal a few weeks ago and I was blindsided by a welded on fill plug. Got around that. Thanks all.

Now I'm doing my diff fluid change. Do it by the book, get oil out, razor out the remaining gasket sealant (no gasket present - just RVT/Silicone) and was ready to put the face plate back on with RTV and strategic torque.

I had already sprayed PB on the fill plug had done nothing else with it.

I tried to get it open. No Way! It's a 3/8" size so just right for an extension on my 3/8 ratchet. No way! Tried a hammer - hitting the ratchet handle - no way! Used brute (bet I put 200 lbs on it as I can easily press that" - no way.

Next would be a cheater bar. My lift's cheater bars won't go over my ratchet so I'm going to have to look around.

Sprayed brake cleaner to get a better look at the plug. I saw threads and nothing else. If it's seized somehow it's in the lower threads.



Does anyone have any ideas? My truck's diff is up in the air for everyone to see....it's raining (nothing dripping on the diff though).
I need him for Monday.


Is there another way to put 80/90 in the diff?

Worst case - put in a small screw-driver size bump in the upper part of the front cover. Put the face place on the diff and torque most of the bolts down (lower ones), fill the diff (3 qts) through a tube that I have then rubber mallet or use one of my body shop hammers to put it back in it's place and put in the remainder of the bolts. Can that be done? Is it advisable. That might be my route through I don't want to go there.

Do folks put thread lock on things like this? Knowing what the PO did with the M5OD it wouldn't be surprising.

Anyone? Do need help here. What does anyone suggest?

Thanks in advance.

/Ricache

 

you can heat up the diff housing around the bolt(dont heat the bolt itself if it expands it'll make your problem worse). you can also drill and tap a new hole but that's highly unadvisable because then you have metal shavings in your differential. only time that's advised is if you have the entire diff apart and there's no way to get the old bolt out. 3/8" ratchet though gives no leverage. my 2 foot breaker bar allows my 130 lbs *** to break rusty leaf spring bolts out, huge improvement over a 3/8" ratchet

 

Isnt it possible to remove the ABS/speed sensor that is on the top of the axle housing and add the axle fluid via the hole and then replace the ABS/speed sensor ?

Just dont overfill the axle. Look at the owner's manual for the correct quantity of fluid.

 

Oh man, I was planning on doing mine in the driveway tomorrow, I'm worried about mine being seized too now. I think you could still put it in through that sensor plug like someone prior had said but then, I don't know what capacity mine takes. I plan on starting by seeing if the fill bolt will come off first, sprayed it with pb blaster today. Good luck to you.

 

That's why this forum is the best! My truck does have ABS (although you couldn't tell cuz the back shoes need replacing bad) so - yes! I'll use that.

Good thing that whole axle uses the same oil in this setup.


I don't think there are any more fill plugs I haven't touched so maybe after this I'm in good shape.

The 80/90 isn't like grease so it should flow OK via a small plastic tube - just might take awhile.

The stuck plug might take a back seat for awhile.

Thnx
/Ricache

 

Capacities
(have already purchased mine - 3.08 - Valvoline Durablend 80/90 Hypoid - 3 quarts):

ALL OF THE BELOW ARE IN PINTS JUST 1/2 IT FOR QUARTS
================================================== =====
Ford 8.8 and 9.0 - 5.5 US pints
Ford 10.25 - 7.5 US pints
Dana 44 IFS, IFS HD and 50 IFS front - 3.6 to 4.0 PINTS
Dana 60 front - 6.0 pints
Dana 60, 60-5,61-1,61-2,62 - 6 pints
Dana 70 - 6.5 pints
Data 70 HD - 6.0 to 7.5 pints


5.5 pints is a little under 3 quarts. I'll measure out the last quart and put 24-28 ounces back in the bottle so I'll be right at 5.5 +_ .1 pint.

Yesssss......back on the road in a few.


Unless the ABS connector is seized as well......that one probably won't be.


/Ricache

 

I always make sure that the fill plug will remove before I drain an axle ,transfer case or manual transmission.

Glad to hear that it is possible to fill the axle via the ABS sensor hole.

 

Do you have an impact wrench? That plus a few adapters might be enough to pop it loose. Even though they can't apply the same force as you can with a long ratchet/cheater bar, I've found that the continuous "pounding" that they do works good for breaking things like this loose.

Good luck!

 

It sometimes works to "shock" the threads, then try to spin it off. Just take an old extension you don't like, insert it in the fill plug, and hit the end of it with the biggest hammer you can find, pretending you want to punch a hole right through it.

Its the same idea as an impact wrench without the chance of rounding out the fill plug.

G/L

 

I'll try the "pound the extension" when the rain lightens a little bit.

I did look into the differential with a flashlight and wiggled the ABS sensor it's a straight shot into the diff. Descent sizled hole.

Will have to clean the surrounding area as I don't want junk/dirt in the gears.

Not impossible to get to - just difficult to see. Might want a mirror.

I used brake fluid cleaner on the case lip (case and cover). Got some spray that hit my glasses. lenses are OK but the dark frames now have which splotches on them. I'll wear goggles today.


As another poster says - I'm going to loosen up the fill plug every time before I drain .

Truck's in the driveway with tail end on a ramp. Raining here since Friday. It's somewhat dry under the truck but the rain runs down the bed to the cab then drips on the driveshaft which hits me in the chest as I'm under the diff on my creeper.

Sure some of us have been under our trucks during even worse conditions.

At least it isn't cold.

Thnx for your replies.

 

Well at least your gettin some rain down there in Wide Awake Wylie ;-)
Please send some up here if you can! My diff plug was same two years
ago in an old truck of mine--had to take it to a wrench for help. Don't
know how he got it out...probably drilled it and put the EZout on it?
Good luck!
Jim

 

I'm a little confused...is this an axle where the fill plug is on the pumpkin near the shaft, not on the differential cover itself?

 

Yes- on the 8.8 rear differential. The front differentials on F150 4x4s have the plug in the front axle stamped "cover"/housing.

My Jeeps with the rear DANA 35 and DANA 44 have the fill plug in the differential cover itself-just a rubber plug.

If the OP's differential didnt have ABS/VSS sensor (pre 1987)-and the fill plug wasnt going to come out no matter what-he could have drilled his differential cover (after removing it) and plugged it with one of these DANA rubber plugs.

 

Finallly did it the abs hole way. unbolted and looked it and saw the flashlight light from the dif gears. Hole was just in line so 80/90 hear we go. Not to messey either.


I did put RTV on both sides of the cases....under and between the holes and also smoothed them out a bit. Think of it as a bead between the holes and the reservoir and a bead after the holes - redundant beads. BOlts will leak first but we'll be made aware.

Did the same for the faceplate.

OEM says don't let them set - use them as soon as you can. they get full strength in 10-12 hours

I rode the truck around for 30 minutes - no problems at all. we'll wait for the next day and that will be the the real test is.



You work on these guys so much they become a part of you and they reflect your personality (and the folkso show helped you out).


More work on this someother time (back brakes and new brake fluid next week). I've got a mighty vac but we'lll see if I remember how to do it.


THanks all.

 

Good to hear that the lub is back in the axle and it sounds like the truck is ready to go on Monday.

This site is great for immediate help and experienced advice.