So far so good with the fan except....

I tapped into the remote switched power on my amp and it is causing a slight bit of noise to my speakers.

Troubleshoot? I turned the volume all the way down, then I stopped the fan (grabbed the spinner) and the noise vanished! The good news is I heard nothing but silence so I don't have noise in the system at all once I get this thing it's own switched power source. I've got an add a fuse and some wire just waiting in anticipation of such a thing.


Dynamat rear doors. Inside and out. get ready to get scraped up pretty good as your working this stuff inside the doors and behind that thick column of steel.


Here's that MTX Amplified ThunderForm in it's installed state. Can't wait to get it returned back and in working order.


No loss of leg room (or random tools in my case).... Big Plus in my book


MTX Amplified ThunderForm with Dual 10" Thunder4500 Subwoofers!!!!


And here is where I installed the remote bass control ****.


This is pretty much what started off this whole build.

First, I bought the iPhone 3GS but didn't want it just sitting in my cup holder and I was sick of plugging my ipod into the lighter so I got the ProClip cradle.

Then, I found this head unit (Sony MEX-BT3700U). This thing will kill my music when a call comes in and I can answer the phone and talk right through the radio. Callers are heard over my speakers AND.... it wires my playlists via bluetooth so... no more wire. I do have one inserted into the front USB if I'm runnin' short on battery life.

It was then I realized how awful my factory speakers where. This work truck is essentially my office so I figured I'd treat myself. Write-off no?

 

Front components: JL Audio C5-570 5" x 7" Evolution Series http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o+C5-570.html#

Rear Doors: JL Audio C2-570X
5" x 7" Evolution C2 Series 2-way Speakers http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...o+C2-570X.html

All I can say is OMG!!!!

I was saving a specific disk to test out my speakers and even though I had to send out the defect ThunderForm I really wanted to hear what my new speakers where capable off. The Disc? Try the Original Soundtrack to Gladiator!!! This disc has tracks that will put your speakers through strings, horns, kick drums and some really cool female harmony. The Movie is also one of my top 5.

For now I have the tweeters stuck to the sail panels just below the grab handle and angled facing each other. I was hoping they where going to be musically noticeable as I really don't want to be cutting into those panels but they're musically invisible and I can hear every note! They sort of sneak up on ya.

The woofers are no dogs either. Again, no sub yet and I was feeling these things with that Gladiator Soundtrack. I swear I jumped a few times when the heavy bass came in.... and those trumpets...... I can't wait to get that sub back!!!

 

Yeah commercial i don't think you will have a problem with the set-up you have. On another note have you looked at aftermarket battery terminals? They have some pretty nice ones on the market. The stock unit looks like it may become a future issue. Here's a few ideas.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...0046/set_num/2

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p4026.html

http://www.bizrate.com/car-accessori...al-connectors/

 

"have you looked at aftermarket battery terminals?"

Have I looked?? LOL. I purchased two different sets BEFORE I realized what I was up against regarding that factory positive octopus.

For positive I NEEDED at least one 1/0 AWG input for the "Big 3" upgrade, Then I got my 4 AWG and 10 AWG (amp and Amplified Sub), and THEN I gotta attach those three 6 AWG stock wires.

I have two of these on order from Sonic Electronix... may as well get a matching pair considering I'll need another 1/0 AWG for the Battery Neg to Chassis....
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...N+-91659-.html

 

Did you glue the wood over the Dynamat or did you Dynamat around it?

 

Liquid Nailed the studs right to the metal and Dynamat around it.

 

So, I needed to provide the fan its own switched on power source vs tapping the amps remote as it was causing noise to my speakers.
I used an add-a-circuit and tapped fuse location #27 (Ignition on Switch run/feed). This is a 2003 F-250 Super Duty Super Cab so check your manual for exact location.

NOTICE the configuration of the harness. On one side there is a relay box (no go) and the other has the wires extending out passed the clip that secures the cover.

Now I'm no conspiracy theorist but what's up wit dat?? Do you think Ford placed this fuse here on purpose?


Check it out!! All I wanted to do was tap the switched power for my fan the easiest way on earth and the cover clip is in the way??

Again I don't think this is a conspiracy by Ford to foil my progress here. I would be more inclined to believe it was DAVE67FD who jinxed my fan from the giddy-up! (wink)


Back to the ole hacksaw I went to notch out a clear path for my fuse harness wire. There is a second wall in there that also needs to be cleared or it will bump the extended harness and forbid the cover to even meet up with the clip.


There ya go......

I actually used up 4 of my 19 remaining photos on this simply because I couldn't find a single pict of this procedure whilst doing research for my audio build.

Sure.... it was explained..... but I'm like a five year old child who needs to see a photo in order to solidify the methods described. If you're anything like me... well.... here ya go. And wipe off that milk mustache while you're at it....


On a final note I should point out that after permanently installing the fan I noticed something I suspected all along.
When the fan is operating and the windows are shut, the louvers on the rear wall vents will open up. Crack the window just a hair and they shut. I'm now positive there will be Zero heat build up behind the backrest!! This is probably the most ideal location for a car amplifier. Same clearance as an underseat mount if not more... with built in air exchange to boot....(have you ever really looked at the clearance under those Super Duty seats?)

 

This is how I came up with my location of the amp on my install as well. The second the cab is closed off and the A/C is on (fresh, not recirc), the vents open up so I know there had to have been some air circulating back there.

Also, I saw your comment about seeing how I modded the backrest. You saw the spaghetti frame back behind that seat, I just took a grinder to it and cut off whatever was in the way, never reinstalled anything. It didn't feel like it compromised the integrity of the seat, at least from what I could tell when sitting there. Not to mention there's some added storage back there. I have a set of jumper cables wedged in one side and a truck manual on the other.

 

The Project: Tweeter Mount Location @ The grab bar A-frame.
The Newest Obstacle: Thick gauge steel behind the exterior pillar exactly where the tweeter cup will be inserted.
The Solution: Get that hunk of steel outta there!
Obviously my trusty grinder wheel wasn't going to fit up in there and forget about hacking away at this with a saw blade so I had to use a bit of ingenuity here.
Another trip down to Home Cheapo and I walked away with a few Dremmel cutoff wheels. I don't own a Dremmel but I gots plenty of power drills and a few Makita Impact Drills.
I took a measurement of 4.5" from the bottom grab handle bolt and luckily I landed where two pieces of welded steel become one. Be sure to tape cardboard at the windshield as that wheel will do a number on yer glass. (Disclaimer: I nicked it twice before coming up with that genius idea...) Here's the Drivers side done.



Of course the passenger side presented to me a bit of wiring behind the steel that was sent up to the clearance lights.
I simply took that square piece of metal from the drivers side cut and taped it between the wires and the steel I was to remove.


OK, both sides are done and I only used seven of those Dremel cut-off wheels. The little cutting blade at the end of my drill is also a Dremel bit. I used the bigger one to cut towards the glass and the little one to cut along and down the windshield. That little one was an absolute tiger.


I should point out that I drove around with my tweeters mounted on double sided tape and kept coming back to this exact same location and aim. (Somewhat facing each other but angled toward the center of the cab.)
The ONLY other spot these tweeters sounded right was taped to the door window glass right near the side mirror sail panels but that wasn't very practical for obvious reasons. (How would I cut a hole in that glass?)
Drivers Side Tweeter Flush Mount.


Passenger Side Tweeter Mount.


So, my build is just about done as the only thing I have to do is put in the MTX ThunderForm Subs when they come back to me in working order.
I will be going through ALL my receipts and post the final tab on this project. It is important to note that the costs do not stop at the actual purchasing of components. There's RCA and speaker wire, Amp Power Kit, Sound deadening material, tools like that VERY handy wire puller and panel remover, bolts, clips, and a few other miscellaneous items. I also purchased an /05-2007 side body F-250 Super Duty Chrome Emblem I will be affixing to that ThunderForm box to jazz it up a bit when the seats are raised... (Twenty-one bucks.)

 

Those tweets look great, thanks for sharing the progress!

 

Thanks Rugby!
I swear I almost broke down and cried when I discovered the steel barrier. I was determined to seat those tweets exactly in that spot nevertheless. Everywhere else I placed em' my ears could tell where the music was coming from. I found myself 'looking' at every note!

Now, I have the perfect soundstage and evrything seems to just blend in.

 

How hard was it to get the speaker wires up to the tweeter location?

 

Not hard at all. Wires coming down the threshold track end up down by the kick panel. Ran door speakers through the wire boot and ran the tweet wires further up by pulling away the rubber molding. There's a wire channel behind it. Once the a-frame panel is removed it's smooth sailing.

 

That is a great job!

 

hvacguy eh??
Funny because the name of my company is 'The Tile Guy'. Although I've been doing a tremendous amount of stone work lately. Thanks for the compliment.