****** My sons buddy has a 89' f150 5.0, auto transmission, with intermittent running issue.


Sometimes it starts &runs fine. Sometimes it will start fine and stall shortly after, & not restart, turns over but no start.


Sometimes it will not turn over at all....just a click or 2.


Yes a tun up is in the works, just hasn't gotten it done yet. But...When it runs it runs fairly well.


They have tested the ignition module 3-4times, its fine.
grounds seem good.



They think that the alternator isn't charging correctly....(I'll agree ) when running, it will show on the amp gauge in side, that it is up to 14+ volts and a bit later ½ min er so , drops down to 8v. Appears to be a recently rebuilt one


I suspect also the relays on the DS of the upper intake maybe faulty.


What are those relays for and is there anything else to check???


thanks

 

Sounds like he needs a new distributor (PIP sensor) and some new battery cables.
There are no relays on the upper intake or on the engine itself. Only sensors and solenoids.

 

for changing the PIP ...this is interior to the distributor? .do you need to pull the whole distributor up to change it?
or can these be changed without pulling the whole thing?

the relays , or what is suspect that they are. Are not directly hanging off the side of the plenum of the Upper intake, they are, (looking from the front ), off to the right 3-4 ", towards the rear of the engine.

If they are sensors or solenoids what are they for???

 

YES

YES
NO

Those are the three solenoid valves for the EGR valve and the A.I.R. system.

 

Those solenoids are for the smog equipment and won't prevent the engine from starting. First thing to do with one of these EFI motor is pull the codes, see www.fordfuelinjection.com for an easy DIY way to do this without a code reader. Sounds like the truck may have a bad battery and/or regulator, charge and test the battery and replace if it doesn't hold 12.5v, and change the regulator if the alt doesn't deliver a consistent 13.5v or better. The regulator is on the back of the alternator, it is cheap and relatively easy to swap out.

 

yes I forgot to mention the battery was also tested...it is fine as well...also why they suspect the alternator....even though it appears to rebuilt/re-manufactured.

the codes that came up were 87 & 15

 

One or two clicks is a bad connection or cables.
If the starter solenoid sounds like a machine gun then the battery is low or there is low voltage getting to the solenoid coil.

 

battery was low on voltage when this happened. after fully charged it fired right up.

but still has a intermittent run-ability issue

 

check the plug behind the gauge cluster where the battery gauge plugs in, if this is loose it will intermittently charge the plugs that plug into the alternator are also known to go bad on the wiring harness so replace them as well and you should be alright-they sell the plugs in the electrical isle at advanced auto

 

The 87 would more than likely be bad wiring under the fuel pump relay.
And that would cause the intermittent run-ability issue.

 

thanks for all the replies!!
I'll pass along the info

 

Ok sound like they are having trouble breaking loose the spark plugs.

they're probably being tender with them, knowing breaking them off in the head is less desirable.

out side of soaking the plugs with wd40 and other crud cutting sprays.

is there any other tricks that can be utilized?

 

if it will run, let it run for a few minutes to get warmed up, then remove the plugs BUT DONT INSTALL THE NEW ONES UNTIL ITS COMPLETELY COOLED DOWN!!!!!!

 

got it running, came up with some codes in the koer

the codes were : 12 33 13 25 (in that order)
in the koeo the codes were : 11 and 33

any clues were to start (main symptom is a pretty high idle even after up to temp.)
*we already cleaned aic

 

need help deciphering the codes and how they relate to the high idle