My 223 is on the engine stand. The pan and the head is on. Internals all rebuilt. When I placed the pulley on the water pump I noticed it doesn't line up with the crank pulley. Off about 1/4". I backed out the bolt and the thick washer. It had been torqued to spec. The pulley was about 1/4" out from the end of the crank. Ideas on how to get it back more? I was thinking , take it off, emery cloth the bore, oil it and try again. Bob

 

While your plan certainly won't hurt anything and I would encourage it, I have doubts that contamination in the pulley bore or on the crank snout is your problem. It would have to be a serious piece of debris to stop the pulley from pulling down all the way under the torque of the bolt. Check your timing chain/gears (not sure what kind of setup a 223 runs). Look to see that you have the correct parts if they were replaced and also that they are installed correctly and that the crank gear is not on backwards. It might sit down farther over the snout one way versus the other. Also check to see if there is a spacer behind the crank gear. Sometimes the replacement sets are machined as 1 piece while the original was 2 pieces one of which was a spacer. I ran into that situation once on a 289 and left the original spacer in place under the cam gear when I replaced the timing set. The cam walked back in the block and pretty much wiped out the engine.

Regardless of what the problem is, make sure you find it now! It's way more expensive than a couple gaskets to find it later the hard way.

 

Check the key in the timing sprocket. Sometimes instead of the pulley sliding over the key, it tips the key up and pushes it.

 

Good ideas. Thanks. Timing set is new and went on fine. Not on backwards because they had the timing marks facing out. The gears as I recall slid back against their limits. Once I get the pulley off and before I remove the timing cover, I will carefully measure the space to the face of the timing gear from end of crank. That should tell me if there is available clearance for the crank pulley? If their isn't, maybe Ross is right or the new crank gear is thicker than the old one? Something to do this weekend!

 

1954/64 223" There were 10 different waterpump pulleys. two different for 1954/56.

What is the depth of the pulley you have now, and is there a Ford ID number stamped on it?

 

Bill
Numbers on the crank pulley: on the front A123875, on the back EAA 6316A. I looked at the water pump, stamped steel pulley, no numbers showing. No way for me to know of it is original to the motor as I bought it in pieces.

I measured after removing the pulley. It had been torqued against the crankshaft timing sprocket as intended. Couldn't go any further. I will wait to hear from you before I pull the timing cover and ruin the new sealed gasket to check for the "pushed" key as ALBUQ suggested. If all else fails I could have the hub shortened in a lathe. This is a mystery. Bob

 

You should be able to tell if the key is properly seated by pulling the crank pulley off, won't need to pull the timing cover unless you can't see the end of the timing key. It could also be the pulley's key that's pushed.

 

How many sheaves (pulley grooves) does this crank pulley (which is also the harmonic balancer) have. one or two?

 

Bill
Single sheave.
Bob

 

Which of these single sheave balancers do you have? I could not find a cross-over for EAA-6316-A. It could have been replaced by EAA-6316-B, or maybe not.

B2AZ-6312-A .. Harmonic Balancer / 6 1/4" Balancer Diameter / 5.40" Pulley Diameter.

Fits: 1952/53 215 Passenger Cars / B2AZ-6312-A replaced EAA-6316-B.
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C3AZ6312C .. Harmonic Balancer / 5 17/32" Pulley Diameter / 2" long.

Fits: 1954/63 223 Trucks / 1954/64 223 Passenger Cars / This is a 1963 updated part number. I could not find the original 1954 part number. It could have been EAA-6316-A, or?

 

Bill
Damper dia is 6 1/4", sheave dia is 5 1/2". Depth measured through the bore 1 3/4".

 

You didn't switch dampers, did you? Was this a running, driving engine before you took it down? In other words, this is a re-assembly problem, not a condition that existed before?

 

Ross
I bought the truck from a guy who had started the resto. The motor was half assembled by the PO. I tore it back down, had a machine shop inspect / measure. Had the cyls bored, aligne bored, crank ground, everything balanced. Put it back together with a master rebuild kit. Thr harmonic damper is the only one with it. But I also got a parts motor with the purchase , no damper on it though. It is possible that the damper is not original.