I was having the same complaints about smoke before the turbo lit.

Jody pulls fuel out in order to lite the turbo. As the truck gets moving and boost comes up, fuel gets added back in and hold on!

 

I am running Roland's old turbo and noticed the same things. Wakes the truck up on the top end.

Yes you can, unless you get a non wastegated version, then you will need the outlet from beans.

 

With the WG'd version, you can use your stock outlet with EBPV. With the non-WG'd, you'd need the 3 bolt hi-flo adaptor and no where to put that Turbo Master.

 

On the waste gated version you can use the stock one. Check me on that. I would suggest you rebuild turbo and gut the EBPV & pedestal though while you're in there. Saves a leak later, and with the rebuild kit, you'll have essentially a brand new turbo.

EDIT: SLOOWWW today. LOL

 

Now, you will not see much of an EGT difference.. with the 1.0 housing, or the high flow outlet... It is very minimal. But every little bit does help. But the 1.0 does help out to reduce drive pressure and the top end is a ltitle better.

You may just have a up-pipe leak, that will contribute to higher EGT's. I think Clay might have those bellowed up-pipes for sale. What kind of boost numbers are you seeing?

Less fuel doesn't mean less power. If it is smoking then it isn't using the fuel to make power. Believe me it does make a difference. My truck with hybrids does not smoke unless I want it too. That is with 37's and stock gears too... so it is really lugging down low. But Chase probably has a boost leak or may have something else going on for a stock injectored truck to be smoking alot down low...

 

I think we're talking two different things here. It takes FUEL to spool the turbo, period. That's why big turbos need bigger sticks to get 'em going! Take your 38r, put it on a stocker, it still maxes out at 30-32psi. You're probably driving it closer to 40. Black smoke after it's spooled is bad -- a good puff when you're taking off isn't. We're talking a hard take-off here. Mine doesn't blow much smoke when I drive it nicely, but I get a good puff out of it when I stomp on it doing highway speeds, because my big 1.15 housing is a little laggy. It drops to 2-3psi at 70 mph, and stepping on the pedal dumps fuel to get it going. That's just the way it is. And my van turbo made a BIG difference at the top end. Took 200 degrees off my EGTs. I would bet EGTs drop about 100 degrees with the 1.0 housing. Before, I could get my EGTs over 1500, now it's hard to get 'em over 1300.

 

Yes we are, I am not going to argue with the fact that bigger turbos need more fuel to light and that hard accelerations are going to produce smoke. I just don't think Chase is talking about hammering down on it. I think somewhat normal driving up until your RPM's are high enough to keep that turbo happy.

As far as EGT control goes, best thing that helped for me, was a bigger turbo and water injection. The rest was minimal.. that is just what I have seen in my quest for EGT control. Even my spearco intercooler didn't improve EGT's all that much... well not 1200 bucks worth

 

Chase -- so are you just getting a little smoke or a big cloud? Easy take-off or stomping it? I don't know how the earlies react to tuning, honestly, but some smoke is okay. What's your max boost? That will help us know if you're looking at some kind of boost leak or something else. I do know that a bigger exhaust housing won't help you. Bigger exhaust housing = more spool time (read: MORE smoke).

 

Hmmm. I need to think that through, but I like the ebpv and use it as a brake when I tow my goose. At RRE I just had it out and we rebuilt the pedestal, turbo looked good too.

My up pipes are clean as a whistle right now, I was going to do the bellowed pipes, but didn't need to right now. I recently closed the wastegate shut and I can get 27 psi with no problem. I've since loosened it up to get in the 25 range now.
I'm curious as to why you say there won't be much of a EGT different, when it seems most people say a 200 degree reduction, which I could use.

 

I have been watching this thread and figured I would chime in. I switched from the stock turbo to a van turbo back in July. With the 1.15 housing there is no wastegate or EBPV. Keith, I too lamented losing the decel option with the EBPV but to be honest it hasn't been that big of a deal. It was nice but its not killing my brakes. (I tow a 3500# dry weight horse trailer with 3 fat horses). But more than the decel and my brakes were my EGTs. I had already replaced my up-pipes and IC boots. But with the bigger housing my EGTs are a non-issue for the most part.

That being said the 1.15 housing on a stock tune is dead slow. There is a pretty decent amount of smoke down low but it cleans up as the turbo comes to life. And man does it come to life!

 

The main reason I say that is 200 degrees drop in temp, is a lot. You upgrade to a GTP38R and you will see 200 degrees drop. Not with a 1.0 housing. You are going to see some difference but just don't expect 200 degrees. If I would have added up what everyone said my EGT's would drop with my aftermarket parts... I would be close to negative right now... 200 for turbo, 200 for intercooler, 200 for 1.15 housing, 50 for high flow outlet, 2-300 for water injection...etc.. etc.. you see my point. I have been chasing EGT's ever since I stuck the big tires on. Gears are going on next...

Do you have larger tires at all on your truck? That can easily contribute to some higher EGT's...

I still think a 1.0 housing would be a great addition to your truck. I stuck one on my Dad's truck and I could tell a difference in performance. Didn't notice much of a lag ... and it pulls alot harder on the top end. No surge at all ... You will see some EGT drop, but just don't expect 200 degrees. Sound good!

 

I stuck BDP's 1.0 housing on my Excursion three years ago and noticed a very slight amount of lag over the stocker.

I got the Beans housing and the wicked wheel for the three reasons you posted, Steve. Drive pressures, EGT's, and surge and I've been very happy with the purchase.

Stewart

 

I like that combo. It sounded great on my Dad's truck. Sure makes it scream at WOT...

 

That's interesting since the 38R has only a 1.0 housing too. What's the difference then?
Not that I'm going 38R, I don't ever see myself using anything other than stock sticks so I don't think I'd really get my money's worth doing that, which is why I'm looking at just the housing.

At any rate, Clay is going to hook me up, I'm going to stick with the EBPV for now, I'm not willing to give up that decel tune Jody made for me. It's helpful, that goose weighs 14-15K and I drive in the VA mountains alot, and next year I'm taking a trip to Moab, UT and want all the help I can get on the downhills.
I can see why the van turbos are so popular, especially when they were so cheap to find.
I really think my turbo is good to go, but I'm still going to consider rebuilding it while it's out. Don't want to spend money if it isn't necessary.

 

I saw about a 200 degree drop with my van turbo. That's measured -- like I said, before I could get it over 1500 easily, now it's hard to get over 1300. I'm about to put the 6.0L I/C on, and I hear it's good for about another 100 degree drop at the top end. I really think you'll see a drop in your top end EGTs, and if you could measure back pressure, I'm sure you'd see a difference there too. For stock sticks, I don't think you want to go any bigger than 1.0 anyway. Like Peter said, it's a real dog in stock with that housing.