I can't say how I am proud Own 91 bronco NOW
#1
I can't say how I am proud Own 91 bronco NOW
Can't believe how comfy and nice.
Need work on 5.0L it have exhaust valve stuck open but it will close if I use screwdrive to lift up.
Need help
Can I use hub lock out from 79 Dana 44 axle? It have automatic hub on now but I feel safe if I use manual hub.
What I need to convert to manual hub?
pic of Bronco
Need work on 5.0L it have exhaust valve stuck open but it will close if I use screwdrive to lift up.
Need help
Can I use hub lock out from 79 Dana 44 axle? It have automatic hub on now but I feel safe if I use manual hub.
What I need to convert to manual hub?
pic of Bronco
#2
The answer on the hubs is probably yes. Removing one set and slip the other set in should be all that is needed. The reason I say probably is that Ford changed the hub configuration for a short period of time but I cannot recall the exact year(s). Basically if there are five bolts on both sets of hubs you should be good to just swap them. If the newer truck has only three bolts, you will need a conversion kit to make the swap.
#3
#4
Run some bad news.
Found oil was real old it turn THIN oil. TONS carbon clog exhaust valves never see like that. Found oxygen sensor was broke off pipe that why it run TOO RICH cause exhaust valve sticky.
Inspect 4 cylinders I say 2 cylinder kind burn oil but not that bad.
We be replace both heads from 89 F150 5.0L.
Found oil was real old it turn THIN oil. TONS carbon clog exhaust valves never see like that. Found oxygen sensor was broke off pipe that why it run TOO RICH cause exhaust valve sticky.
Inspect 4 cylinders I say 2 cylinder kind burn oil but not that bad.
We be replace both heads from 89 F150 5.0L.
#6
I know but I have see worser
I suspect that First owner don't change oil and sludge grew cover that until #2 owner bought then change oil too often that what cause knock sludge off.
When I remove valve cover I could see that owner try clean sludge by put stuff.
Compressor I check are 130-170 psi but it should be run for few years before rebuilt it.
I suspect that First owner don't change oil and sludge grew cover that until #2 owner bought then change oil too often that what cause knock sludge off.
When I remove valve cover I could see that owner try clean sludge by put stuff.
Compressor I check are 130-170 psi but it should be run for few years before rebuilt it.
#7
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#9
#10
A friend of mine that lives out here went snowboarding in Tahoe in his truck. I told him he should switch to manual hubs, he didn't. The auto hubs failed to engage, he got stuck, had to get towed to the summit where he had to buy chains and install them in order to continue. Embarrassing AND expensive.
The only pro to having auto hubs is that you don't have to get out and lock them. With manual hubs I know whether they are locked or unlocked just by looking at them, I don't have to back up to drive forward to engage them, I know they are much more reliable than auto hubs from reading tons of threads on here about how they failed, and I also get to use 2lo - something that is actually useful sometimes.
Manual hubs FTW!
The only pro to having auto hubs is that you don't have to get out and lock them. With manual hubs I know whether they are locked or unlocked just by looking at them, I don't have to back up to drive forward to engage them, I know they are much more reliable than auto hubs from reading tons of threads on here about how they failed, and I also get to use 2lo - something that is actually useful sometimes.
Manual hubs FTW!
#11
A friend of mine that lives out here went snowboarding in Tahoe in his truck. I told him he should switch to manual hubs, he didn't. The auto hubs failed to engage, he got stuck, had to get towed to the summit where he had to buy chains and install them in order to continue. Embarrassing AND expensive.
The only pro to having auto hubs is that you don't have to get out and lock them. With manual hubs I know whether they are locked or unlocked just by looking at them, I don't have to back up to drive forward to engage them, I know they are much more reliable than auto hubs from reading tons of threads on here about how they failed, and I also get to use 2lo - something that is actually useful sometimes.
Manual hubs FTW!
The only pro to having auto hubs is that you don't have to get out and lock them. With manual hubs I know whether they are locked or unlocked just by looking at them, I don't have to back up to drive forward to engage them, I know they are much more reliable than auto hubs from reading tons of threads on here about how they failed, and I also get to use 2lo - something that is actually useful sometimes.
Manual hubs FTW!
#12
When I show to my Uncle and his brother First thing they told me replace that auto hub with manual hub
I say why they say they go bad anytime when you need auto hub and they know I am use for plow so that why they tell me change hub before use for plow.
Gas tank I look it seem to be plastic but no rust on it.
rear fender is start rust about 1/2" so i need stop rust grow and plow in winter are HARSH due salt so I need find way to stop rust grow worst.
I say why they say they go bad anytime when you need auto hub and they know I am use for plow so that why they tell me change hub before use for plow.
Gas tank I look it seem to be plastic but no rust on it.
rear fender is start rust about 1/2" so i need stop rust grow and plow in winter are HARSH due salt so I need find way to stop rust grow worst.
#14
The only pro to having auto hubs is that you don't have to get out and lock them. With manual hubs I know whether they are locked or unlocked just by looking at them, I don't have to back up to drive forward to engage them, I know they are much more reliable than auto hubs from reading tons of threads on here about how they failed, and I also get to use 2lo - something that is actually useful sometimes.
Manual hubs FTW!
Manual hubs FTW!
#15
I can see why it not good for plow snow.
How much it cost to convert to manual hub? Do they use vacuum hose for auto hubs?