ok I cleaned the condenser with simple green and hosed it down good temp here is 73 and humidity is 73% when it is ideling I get 59 to 60 degree air out of vents when I go down road at 45 to 50 I get 49 degree air but as soon as I sit at ideling it goes up to 60 degrees . I checked low side quickly and at idle I had about 48 psi I did not check high side again

 

Really need to see the high side too. Check the pressures at 1500 rpm
That is an improvement. This really still smells like a condenser airflow problem though.
While you have the gauges connected and engine at 1500, mist the condenser with water from your garden hose. See if the high side pressure drops quickly and/or the cooling improves.

 

ok here are some readings as I'm trying to give as much info as poss. at idle with the fan set to 4 and with the max cool and at idle I get
High side 225
low side 31

At 1500 Rpms and above settings I get

high side 250
low side 26 temp at vents 49


with the a/c set in a/c and fan on 4 i get
high 255
low 43 temp at vents 65


water on condensor at 1500 normal settings I get

high 240
low 33 temp is 62

when I addd water high drops quickly and it is tough to get 100% reading doing this by myself and looking at temp at vents etc. but the car is peeing water quite well as I never saw it drip as much from the drain but the humidity is 78% and its 73 degrees here now. I'm trying to figure this out . What does the max air switch do as it really improves the cooling?

 

Cleaning the condenser made a difference in pressures but didn't solve the problem. If the evaporator drain is dripping a lot of water, your refrigerant loop is doing it's job. The 250/26 , are almost perfect and it should be cooling much better than that. It looks like you are getting some reheating in the evaporator case. This can be caused by a faulty blend door actuator. To check for this, clamp off the heater hoses to block flow to the heater core. I'll bet the ac performance improves.

Max Air closes the outside air intake and recirculates the interior air. That way you are cooling down the cooler inside air instead of hotter outside air. That assumes, of course, that the interior IS cooler that the exterior.

 

i just took it for a drive on expressway settings on max cool and doing 70 I get 44 degree air and just on ac and fan on 4 I get 50 degrees now for the 64000 question is the blend door acuator a bitch to get to or to change ........................ could it be the cold hot switch on dash I heard that they are a rheastat trying to go the easy route first I guess.............. also when I recharged it i put in 32Oz as the lable on car said

 

Most BDAs are a pain to change, but I don't know specifically about the Escape. This is where a factory shop manual would come in handy (hint).
Clamp off the heater hoses to verify that you are in fact getting reheating before you attempt to fix anything!
Also, don't bother changing the rheostat. If there is actually a problem, it will be with the actuator or blend door itself. This is very common on Ford products.

 

I say you need to hose of the condenser better and try to clean the radiator too, remember the air must pass through both.
It won't hurt it to spray a sharp stream at it.
You might try spraying it from the radiator side but that's probably hard if not impossible.
One other thing, did you use R134 cans that had oil in it?

 

no i used it out of a 30 lb jug and that was my next question i evacuated it 3 times and wondering if I should add a oz of ester oil as did I suck the oil out and could a lack of oil cause my problem? as i did clean the condensor pretty good and I think the stream went thru the rad

 

I was more concerned with too much oil being added.
It won't hurt to try cleaning the Cond. again.

 

will try that again tomorrow but it seems to not be dirty to me,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and is 32 oz the correct amount of freon as the tag says max 32 oz?

 

No one has mentioned the fact that going down the road you have lots of airflow through the condensor and the system works fine so I would check the radiator fan for proper operation. The fan has to cool the condensor when vehicle is stopped or both high and low side pressures will climb and cooling will suffer.

 

both electric fans are on when a/c is on so they are working

 

Ok im going to change the compressor as yesterday as i was observing ac clutch i saw sparks coming from clutch only a few but me thinking there is a failure coming soon. So........how easy / TOUGH is that job i have compressor seems like its a straight forward install,take off belt plastic belly shield and unbold any pit falls to avoid? Going to replace drier,orfice and blow out evap and line and condensor with air and adding 2 oz of oil to drier and 5 oz to compressor. Any advice .............

 

The driven part and the driver are both steel, so sparks are possible with a little slippage.

 

<br />
<br />
so is that an indication that there could be a failure if I'm getting clutch slippage ? and I did smell some what of a burning smell