'66 Brake Drum Questions
#1
'66 Brake Drum Questions
Hi again everyone.
Looking for some help with locating and/or part #'s for '66 F100 Front Brake Drums & wheel cylinders.
1) The LMC catalog has a "A & B" choice that designates "A=Before series #260,000 or B=Before series #684,000".
What are they referring to?
Or can someone just tell me the best place to get these parts.
2) Also When it lists "Wheel Cylinder" is thatjust the cylinder only or what?
because they also list "Wheel cylinder Kits"?
All or any help is appreciated.
~Bob
Looking for some help with locating and/or part #'s for '66 F100 Front Brake Drums & wheel cylinders.
1) The LMC catalog has a "A & B" choice that designates "A=Before series #260,000 or B=Before series #684,000".
What are they referring to?
Or can someone just tell me the best place to get these parts.
2) Also When it lists "Wheel Cylinder" is thatjust the cylinder only or what?
because they also list "Wheel cylinder Kits"?
All or any help is appreciated.
~Bob
#2
the serial number they are referring to is the last digits of your trucks VIN...
Where to get the parts...locally...NAPA has it...you can go online and look at pics as well...
A wheel cylinder is the assembly...ready to bolt on usually.
A kit is the rubber parts and the spring and seals inside of the cylinder.
Personally I wouldnt buy from LMC...brake stuff can be easily had locally...as far as the drums go, go to a machine shop or a brake shop...like Midas for example and they can mic them for you...thats measuring the inside diameter of them. This will let you know if you can or can not have them turned and reused.
Let us know what the last 6 are of your VIN as there are a few on here, myself included with Ford Parts catalogs that can look the part numbers up for you as well as decode you warranty plate...which is located on the rear face of the drivers door below the latch.
- cs65
Where to get the parts...locally...NAPA has it...you can go online and look at pics as well...
A wheel cylinder is the assembly...ready to bolt on usually.
A kit is the rubber parts and the spring and seals inside of the cylinder.
Personally I wouldnt buy from LMC...brake stuff can be easily had locally...as far as the drums go, go to a machine shop or a brake shop...like Midas for example and they can mic them for you...thats measuring the inside diameter of them. This will let you know if you can or can not have them turned and reused.
Let us know what the last 6 are of your VIN as there are a few on here, myself included with Ford Parts catalogs that can look the part numbers up for you as well as decode you warranty plate...which is located on the rear face of the drivers door below the latch.
- cs65
#3
I was thinking that it was the last 6 digits of the VIN #, but mine doesn't fit either catagory.
VIN=747565
ps) I have never purchased anything from LMC yet, but I like using their catalog as a reference.
(The drums measure 2-1/2" inside depth x 11" inside diameter)
The wheel cylinder kit shown in the LMC catalog looks like the whole unit and is 80-100 bucks, where as the wheel cylinder is just 20. Does that sound right?
Thanks, Bob
VIN=747565
ps) I have never purchased anything from LMC yet, but I like using their catalog as a reference.
(The drums measure 2-1/2" inside depth x 11" inside diameter)
The wheel cylinder kit shown in the LMC catalog looks like the whole unit and is 80-100 bucks, where as the wheel cylinder is just 20. Does that sound right?
Thanks, Bob
#4
LMAO...no...80-100 for a wheel cylinder kit...sounds like they are trying to sell a set of 4 in a package deal...still too high IMO...
747,565 = a Sept. 1965 build date...its a 1966 model year truck. Back in the day Ford did their changeover from one model year to another in the month of August. The 1966 model year run began with s/n 732,001.
20 bucks for a cylinder is reasonable...but I would shop around locally...one big thing to remember with mail order anything...shipping and handling charges...those fees can make that seemingly great deal seem like a crock in short order...plus returning wrong parts...LOL...ya cant just run down to the local store if its wrong...
- cs65
747,565 = a Sept. 1965 build date...its a 1966 model year truck. Back in the day Ford did their changeover from one model year to another in the month of August. The 1966 model year run began with s/n 732,001.
20 bucks for a cylinder is reasonable...but I would shop around locally...one big thing to remember with mail order anything...shipping and handling charges...those fees can make that seemingly great deal seem like a crock in short order...plus returning wrong parts...LOL...ya cant just run down to the local store if its wrong...
- cs65
#5
I went to o'reilly for the front whl cylinders on my '64...after trying 3 different $15 parts that didn't fit. They were 60 bucks each. The rears were only 15 bucks each.
If I recall, the only difference between the fronts and rears was how the brake line threaded in - the rears have a flat face where the threads are and the fronts had an angled face where the threads are. Sure didn't look like a $45 difference to me though...
If I recall, the only difference between the fronts and rears was how the brake line threaded in - the rears have a flat face where the threads are and the fronts had an angled face where the threads are. Sure didn't look like a $45 difference to me though...
#6
Theres a huge difference in the front and rear cylinders...fronts have a 1 1/16" piston and the rears use a 7/8" piston...front is where the majority of the braking action happens...what looks the same on the outside isnt necessarily the same on the inside...front cylinders p/n is as follows:
LF : C3OZ2062C
RF : C5TZ2061A
And just to cover all the bases...heres the rears..
LR : C6OZ2262A r/b D2ZZ2262A
RR : C6OZ2261A r/b D2ZZ2261A
fronts info is from Sec 20.1, pg 8, p/l 2
rears info is from Sec 22.1, pg 13, p/l 2
From Ford Master Parts Catalog 1/75 ed.
- cs65
LF : C3OZ2062C
RF : C5TZ2061A
And just to cover all the bases...heres the rears..
LR : C6OZ2262A r/b D2ZZ2262A
RR : C6OZ2261A r/b D2ZZ2261A
fronts info is from Sec 20.1, pg 8, p/l 2
rears info is from Sec 22.1, pg 13, p/l 2
From Ford Master Parts Catalog 1/75 ed.
- cs65
#7
Theres a huge difference in the front and rear cylinders...fronts have a 1 1/16" piston and the rears use a 7/8" piston...front is where the majority of the braking action happens...what looks the same on the outside isnt necessarily the same on the inside...front cylinders p/n is as follows:
C3OZ2062C .. Left Front Wheel Cylinder 1 1/16"
C5TZ2061A replaced by C3OZ2061C .. Right Front Wheel Cylinder 1 1/16"
Fits: 1965/66 F100 2WD / 1964 F100 4WD / 1962/65 Fairlane V8 (10" brakes)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And just to cover all the bases...here's the rears..
C6OZ2262A replaced by D3ZZ2262A .. Left Rear Wheel Cylinder 7/8"
C6OZ2261A replaced by D3ZZ2261A .. Right Front Wheel Cylinder 7/8"
Fits: 1964/72 F100 2WD / 1965/66 Galaxie/LTD / 1966/73 Mustang / 1966/69 Fairlane/Torino / 1969/70 Falcon.
C3OZ2062C .. Left Front Wheel Cylinder 1 1/16"
C5TZ2061A replaced by C3OZ2061C .. Right Front Wheel Cylinder 1 1/16"
Fits: 1965/66 F100 2WD / 1964 F100 4WD / 1962/65 Fairlane V8 (10" brakes)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
And just to cover all the bases...here's the rears..
C6OZ2262A replaced by D3ZZ2262A .. Left Rear Wheel Cylinder 7/8"
C6OZ2261A replaced by D3ZZ2261A .. Right Front Wheel Cylinder 7/8"
Fits: 1964/72 F100 2WD / 1965/66 Galaxie/LTD / 1966/73 Mustang / 1966/69 Fairlane/Torino / 1969/70 Falcon.
C6TZ1102B .. Hub & Drum Assembly / C6TZ1102B replaced C4TZ1102A
Fits: 1964/67 F100 2WD.
------------------------
Don...if you're gonna post mechanical related part numbers, you better get yourself some O-S-I catalogs. Because Ford updates...10's of 1000's of part numbers...every year.
The problem with old Ford parts catalogs is...the part numbers are also old. So...you need O-S-I (Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange) Catalogs to update the fracatta part numbers.
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#8
you are correct Bill in my need for the OSI catalogs...but the main thing was showing the front and rear cylinders are of different bores...Ive never heard of that being one of the changes when p/n are changed. Thats not to say its never been done, but would seem odd as that would affect other things upstream I believe...like the proportioning valve or distribution block up front I believe.
- cs65
- cs65
#9
I found ALL the parts locally. Between NAPA & Advance Auto.
I decided to go with new drums. Mine were close to shot, and it was $11 bucks to have them turned, which I'm not even sure would've worked, or $30 bucks for new ones. I splurged.
Oh, and just to clear up MY confusion for anyone else who may have been interested, the wheel cylinders were $14.99 a piece and come as a complete unit. (minus the "pins" that go in the ends)
Thanks again for ALL your input.
~Bob
I decided to go with new drums. Mine were close to shot, and it was $11 bucks to have them turned, which I'm not even sure would've worked, or $30 bucks for new ones. I splurged.
Oh, and just to clear up MY confusion for anyone else who may have been interested, the wheel cylinders were $14.99 a piece and come as a complete unit. (minus the "pins" that go in the ends)
Thanks again for ALL your input.
~Bob
#10
I use National Parts Depot. The specialize in Ford. That is where I purchased my complete break overall for front,rear,lines,master cylinder.
http://www.npdlink.com/
I would recommend downloading the PDF Catalog.
http://www.npdlink.com/
I would recommend downloading the PDF Catalog.
#11
I have a new problem.
Not sure what the piece is called, but it's the part that is directly behind the drums, that hold the bolts for the lug nuts. Also has the rear seal in it and bearings.
I can not get these apart. I was told they should come apart if I beat on the bolts using a 2x4 and a hammer, but they don't budge. I definately don't want to damage the bolts.
Any ideas?
Can that whole unit be purchased new? I know NAPA can not get them.
~Bob
Not sure what the piece is called, but it's the part that is directly behind the drums, that hold the bolts for the lug nuts. Also has the rear seal in it and bearings.
I can not get these apart. I was told they should come apart if I beat on the bolts using a 2x4 and a hammer, but they don't budge. I definately don't want to damage the bolts.
Any ideas?
Can that whole unit be purchased new? I know NAPA can not get them.
~Bob
#12
If you are working on the front drum they are all 1 piece...hub and drum assembly. the rear grease seal is tapped into the rear of the hub after the inner tapered wheel bearing is installed. The bearing rides on whats called a race...its a precision type part that usually to the best of my knowlege is not part of the hub/drum assembly when bought new.
The outer wheel bearing is of smaller diameter and is also tapered and simply slides onto the spindle after the drum/hub assembly is on. It also has a race same as the rear except for size.
Take some pics if you can...
If you look above a little bit at the last post by Bill(NumberDummy) he noted the part number for the hub AND drum assembly for your truck...
Take pics of what all you have as far as the original parts and the new stuff so we can see what ya have going on.
- cs65
The outer wheel bearing is of smaller diameter and is also tapered and simply slides onto the spindle after the drum/hub assembly is on. It also has a race same as the rear except for size.
Take some pics if you can...
If you look above a little bit at the last post by Bill(NumberDummy) he noted the part number for the hub AND drum assembly for your truck...
Take pics of what all you have as far as the original parts and the new stuff so we can see what ya have going on.
- cs65
#13
Here's a picture of the inside.
I'm pointing to the piece I need to remove from the drum.
In front of my finger is the back of the lug bolts.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes006.jpg?t=1248745612">
Here's the front of the drum, showing my crusty lug bolts.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes002.jpg?t=1248745981">
Here's what's left. (I am replacing the wheel cylinder also)
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes008.jpg?t=1248746169">
I'm pointing to the piece I need to remove from the drum.
In front of my finger is the back of the lug bolts.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes006.jpg?t=1248745612">
Here's the front of the drum, showing my crusty lug bolts.
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes002.jpg?t=1248745981">
Here's what's left. (I am replacing the wheel cylinder also)
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v737/ynkstr/brakes008.jpg?t=1248746169">
#14
[quote=NumberDummy;7752514]Ford did not sell the front brake drums only, they were only sold as a hub/drum assembly.
C6TZ1102B .. Hub & Drum Assembly / C6TZ1102B replaced C4TZ1102A
Fits: 1964/67 F100 2WD.
-----------------
I was able to find 2 new drums.
Is the "hub assembly" removable & reusable?
I can't seem to get them apart.
(see pictures above)
~Bob
C6TZ1102B .. Hub & Drum Assembly / C6TZ1102B replaced C4TZ1102A
Fits: 1964/67 F100 2WD.
-----------------
I was able to find 2 new drums.
Is the "hub assembly" removable & reusable?
I can't seem to get them apart.
(see pictures above)
~Bob
#15
I have a new problem.
Not sure what the piece is called, but it's the part that is directly behind the drums HUB, that hold the bolts for the lug nuts. Also has the rear seal in it and bearings.
I can not get these apart. I was told they should come apart if I beat on the bolts using a 2x4 and a hammer, but they don't budge. I definately don't want to damage the bolts.
Not sure what the piece is called, but it's the part that is directly behind the drums HUB, that hold the bolts for the lug nuts. Also has the rear seal in it and bearings.
I can not get these apart. I was told they should come apart if I beat on the bolts using a 2x4 and a hammer, but they don't budge. I definately don't want to damage the bolts.
The simple solution is to take the hub & drum assy to NAPA and have them press the drum off the hub, install new studs in the hub and then press the new drum to the hub.
The studs have serrations on the hub end, once the hub & drum are separated, the serrations flatten out, so the old studs cannot be reused.
This has been the correct method of doing this since vehicles first got demountable wheels circa 1915.
Prior to this date, the drum was part of the wheel.