1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

What should I expect to pay?

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Old 07-10-2009, 04:19 PM
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What should I expect to pay?

I've been looking for a '57-60 big window cab. I have found a whole truck that doesn't have any rust through or serious problems in the cab. styleside bed with some rust. The truck does run but is not driveable. He wants 2k for it. 292 w/ 3 speed tree. Hoping to talk him down a little. Help me justify spending some money, or talk me out of it.
Matt
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:25 PM
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$ 800.00 or walk!
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 04:37 PM
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If you decied he wants too much for it, leave an offer and your contact information. With a little luck and some patience you'll get a call back when he finds he can't sell it at the price he asked.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 05:28 PM
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In perspective, this one is advertised at $2995 up here. It has a 223 6, and 3 sp. http://duluth.craigslist.org/cto/1260605393.html Not the same year, I know, but has less desirable goods than the one you are looking at. So, that said, I would not pay $2995 for the '55, but I would pay $2000 for a big window '57-60 if the condition was equal to this one.....up here. Down there, rust may not be as common, lol. BTW, that truck you're looking at is what I'm looking for, so maybe I'm biased.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 09:57 PM
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Looks to be in that shape at least, and probably a little better. Unfortunately, I haven't seen it in person, I have gotten several photos and was quite suprised at the lack of rust. We'll see how bad it is when I get there Monday.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:11 PM
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Hopefully it's worth it. Up here anything that isn't too rusted commands alot more $$$ than a rusty one....because it would mean it was imported, lol.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 10:39 PM
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I'm buying my 56 big window for $7500.00

it has no rust and the body is in great condition, all panels completely usable with a 390 v8 that was just rebuilt. The interior is even in good condition.

Its all what you are willing to pay for. Would you rather pay up front or down the line.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:01 PM
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Well I figure it will cost about a grand to have the metal work in my 59 cab done and possibly more. Both my doors have issue, and 1 fender needs patched. If I add all that up, I can see coming close to 2K anyways ( I need to learn to do metal repair myself, but I'm sure it may cost me even more if I attempt it myself first). So I'm thinking if I can talk him down a little, I could be getting some spare parts for free. But it also blows my budget to hell. I guess I'll just have to sell some more stuff.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:05 PM
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" BTW, that truck you're looking at is what I'm looking for, so maybe I'm biased. "

Havi, You want me to send it your way if I don't buy it? I can send you some pics if you like.
 
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:22 PM
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These are the only photos it will let me host presently. I'll try and get others later.
 
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Old 07-11-2009, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by conrad55
I need to learn to do metal repair myself, but I'm sure it may cost me even more if I attempt it myself first.
Actually you could buy a MIG welder, any tools you may need, all the steel to do it three times, filler, primer and STILL come out cheaper than if you paid someone to do it. You could have to do the job over and over and over and STILL come out cheaper. The nice thing about metal is you can always fix it, welding fixes a lot of mistakes, so does a hammer. Even if the whole thing was crumpled in there and you had to do it all over again, its not going to cost you anything more than some welding rod/wire and maybe a cutting disk. Not to mention the next time you go to do it...

It's great fun... course I'm a blacksmith... and I always try to talk people into doing it themselves manly because I'm in the "lots of time and no money" group of builders. Just take a few minutes before trying it to figure out how you're going to do it, make a pattern out of paper and thats pretty much it.

Side note: if you want to save a little money you don't have to buy the patches they sell, well depending on where it needs to go and how handy you are with steel. The sheet metal on trucks is pretty thin, there are a lot of easy tricks to working it if you don't have any tools, trick is just to go slow and use a little bending at a time stretched over a couple of points, keeps it from crimping...or bend it around a pipe.
 
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Old 07-11-2009, 09:52 AM
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Hi Stephen
I just found out which group I fit in. Your group is the lots of time and no money my would be just a little time and just the amount of money to use the salvage yards.I still have a lot of mig time ahead.
 
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:28 AM
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Exclamation Trucks...

I got an email from SEMA this morning and, as always, at the tail-end
of it...there is always some interesting links on either companies and/or
new-ish automotive-related websites...AND...THIS was one of them...

http://www.houseofhotrods.com

AND I found THESE...

http://www.houseofhotrods.com/listing_detail.php?id=384

http://www.houseofhotrods.com/listing_detail.php?id=455


Oh yea...I ran across this one earlier HERE...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/867742-59-for-sale-in-tremonton-utah-ksl-ad.html

Let the games begin...ready...set...GO...

-
 
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Old 07-17-2009, 12:49 PM
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:45 PM
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I don't know about TN, but you won't find a truck (or car) this age without rust holes for that kind of cabbage in New England. Even not running, a true rust free truck would probably start around $3Large in my neighborhood but you won't be able to find it.
 


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