Okay, I just spoke with the guys at the off road shop and they seem to think that my hubs have nothing to do with the 4wd problem I have been having. They say the hub/bearing assembly going bad should cause some wobble problems, but they do not see where it would cause 4wd problems. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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I was thinking about this at 3 am last night and started to draw a conclusion and I would like yalls opinion.

If the bearing/hub assembly is bad then the axle stem inside the locking hub will flex. If the axle stem flexes then the hub will not lock 'cause the axle stem will block the gear mechanism from the manual hub...? This is my guess. If it blocks the lock then it will not go into 4wd...!?<o></o>
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So the hub/bearing assembly can cause 4wd to not function correct??? <o></o>
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If I get stuck on the beach again I am going to loose my mind. I have gotten stuck 2 out of the 3 times I have gone and this is just getting ridiculous...<o></o>

 

u would have to have a incredible amount of stub axle play to not get teh hub to engage the splines...

why dont u just pull the hubs off and see whats going on ???

 

Can you list everything you have done to the axle area so far? The stub axle play shouldn't be enough to affect your locking hubs.

 

I pulled the hub off and that is what got me thinking about the original problem. I have already fixed the problem according to our diagnosis. I am just looking for some reassurance from the forum guys. I am offering my theory of what was going on before the replacements and i wanted to know if others thought it was possible.

The off road service shop was saying that they couldn't figure out why the hub/bearing assembly would cause the 4wd not to work.
I don't want to be rude here, but when I brought my truck to the shop I explained that the most important thing was that the 4wd get fixed! They replaced the hub/bearing assembly. Then two weeks later they explain that they don't know why a bad hub/bearing assembly would 'cause the 4wd not to work? What happened to fixing my 4wd?


replacemnts so far:
both locking hubs replaced with new warn locking hubs
passenger side, inner and outer axles replaced.
both driver side and passenger side hub/bearing assembly replaced.
That is the only things I have done in regards to the 4wd...

 

Do you have the switch on the dash, or the lever on the floor?

If it's ESOF (switch on the dash), is the 4x4 light coming on in the dash cluster? If it isn't it's the TRANSFER CASE that is not shifting into 4x4. The reasons for that, we'll get into later, but for now, let us know if it's ESOF or not.

 

ESOF
4x4 lights on
I hear the distinctive click a moment after ESOF is turned

 

The best thing to do is get both front wheels in the air. Then, disengage the hubs/transfer case. Spin the wheels. The axle shafts shouldn't spin. Lock the hubs. Spin each wheel and see what happens. If the axles don't spin, then it is a hub issue. If the axles and wheels spin together, then, does the front driveshaft spin? If the transfer case is in 4WD, then nothing should move if only the front tires are in the air (except for one tire spinning in the opposite direction of the other when turned by hand unless you have a front locker). With the transfer case in 4WD and only the front tires off the ground, can you turn the front driveshaft by hand? You shouldn't be able to with the rear tires still on the ground. If you can, then do both wheels turn, if they do, then your hubs work fine and it is a transfer case issue. I am not to familiar with ESOF since I don't have it on my truck, so maybe one of the other guys can chime in, but this is the best way to troubleshoot this issue.

Good Luck

 

Well, if it's still not locking up the front-end, you have to put it in 4x4 and check out what's not locking.

After manually locking the hubs, and putting it in 4x4, jack the front-end up and try to rotate the front wheels. If they free-wheel, the hubs aren't locking. Warn hubs are NOT to be pre-lubed before install. If you use thick grease, they will NOT lock.

If the front-wheels are locking to the axles, try rotating the front driveshaft by hand and see if the transfer case really is in 4x4.

 

OKay. The main problem is that jacking the front end takes more equip thank I have... I don't have stands that are rated for the heavy lifting. Thanks for the post though. I will try to let you guys know the results.

 

Krewat,
Would white lithium grease (not spray) be considered "thick grease"?
When I installed a new pair of auto hubs a couple months ago I slopped some white lithium on the splines. Should I maybe consider popping off the the auto hubs again and cleaning off the grease?

Thanks Krewat,
Rick...

 

I know it is a little redneck, but you could use your Ford Supplied Vehicle jack and put some 4x4's or some other kind of wood under axle right below the spring mounts. It would also be possible to just jack one tire up at a time. It is the same principal. If the tire and axle spin while locked in (not in 4WD) the hub is fine. If it won't spin while in 4 wheel, then you are also fine. It is a good way to see if the hub is the issue.

Another way to check it while it is on the ground is to leave it in 2WD and unlock the hubs. Crawl under the vehicle (not running, in park, with parking brake on...Safety First) and turn the front driveshaft. The driveshaft should turn along with the front axles turning in opposite directions. Now, lock the front hubs (leave the truck in 2WD) and turn the front driveshaft. If you can't turn the driveshaft both hubs are locked in properly. If you can turn the driveshaft and only one axle shaft turns then that hub is not locking in. If both axles turn then both hubs aren't working properly.

Hope it is something simple.

 

Actually, just thought of something. Using your stock bottle jack, lift ONE of the front wheels off the ground. With it in 4x4, try rotating the wheel by hand. If it spins, tell us what turns. The wheel and NOT the u-joint behind it, the wheel AND u-joint AND the u-joint behind the other wheel, or the front driveshaft?



For the stock auto hubs, if they work with the stuff in it, that's probably OK.

I was talking about the Warn manual hubs. They use a weak spring and a collar that if you use thick grease, the collar won't move and lock the hub.

 

Makes sense of course.
When I replaced the hubs I did notice that the splines were bone dry and very clean. I thought I had read that it was recommended to grease them up for maitinence reasons so I did. Now that I'm thinking about it again I'm thinking I should have left it dry as it was.
Maybe I'll take them off again for a look and see how I feel about it after the few thousand kms I've put on them since the re & re.
I have noticed they sometimes struggle to engage.

Thanks Krewat,
Rick...

 

I have gotten some great help from you guys and even one dude PMed me and gave me his number to CALL! Can you say, "AWESOME." I didn't want to disclose his name just incase.

Anyways, I followed his advice and after locking the hubs, the U-joints lock after trying to spin by hand. THE CATCH IS THAT IN 2wd the drive shaft is not spinning???? I mean after locking the hubs then I drive a little forward the drive shaft doesn't spin...? If I put in 4wd then the drive shaft spins...

Oh crap did we just figure it out? I don't know what it means, but that may be the results that produced the answer...?

 

Take the cover off of the front diff. take a peek inside..maybe something broke. (best let your mechanic do it though)