Have you actually ever knocked a "C" off of one of these things before? Is this your first time rotating the c's? Not an easy thing to do. The fit between the tube and the "C" is tight, I mean real tight.
I would be interested in seeing the jig that you have made to maintian the correct replationship and strightness bewteen the "C's".
I only ask because I have seen several axles ruined this way........
Have you actually ever knocked a "C" off of one of these things before? Is this your first time rotating the c's? Not an easy thing to do. The fit between the tube and the "C" is tight, I mean real tight.
I would be interested in seeing the jig that you have made to maintian the correct replationship and strightness bewteen the "C's".
I only ask because I have seen several axles ruined this way........
I've never done it before. Here's my plan:
1. Get rid of sway bar bracket. Grind out weld around C's.
2. Use a digital protractor and reference the pinion area to the back sides of the kingpins individually in case they are inconsistant from side to side. I'm shooting for 4* offset from factory.
3. I see no reason to knock the C all the way off. I'm gonna try to free up the welds and rotate it without pulling it all the way off.
4. Reweld C's and tack on 4* spring pad wedge
Like I said, I've never done this before, but I've done a lot of heavy duty fabrication at work. Before I transferred to the Fab. Dept. I was a machinist. I see no reason that I couldn't manage this, but I am open to suggestions if they stem from actual experience.
1. Get rid of sway bar bracket. Grind out weld around C's.
2. Use a digital protractor and reference the pinion area to the back sides of the kingpins individually in case they are inconsistant from side to side. I'm shooting for 4* offset from factory.
3. I see no reason to knock the C all the way off. I'm gonna try to free up the welds and rotate it without pulling it all the way off.
4. Reweld C's and tack on 4* spring pad wedge
Like I said, I've never done this before, but I've done a lot of heavy duty fabrication at work. Before I transferred to the Fab. Dept. I was a machinist. I see no reason that I couldn't manage this, but I am open to suggestions if they stem from actual experience.
For that small amount, I would just consider wedging the spring perch. I mean, to me its not worht the effort and potential failure.
You have to cinsider the amount of movement that the "C's" can potentialy move.
Im not a bad fabricator, and I thought about this myself. I removed everything, and machined the tubes, and "C's", only to find some discrepancies in my set up, and ended up sending my junk to Dynatrac to complete. Could I have completed it? Maybe, but I was not willing to take the chance.
I had nothing to make a reasonable reference to, and without accurate data, there was no way to verify that what I had was gonna work. I hate doint things twice, so I opted to have it done at a reliable place.
i would not go through all the work to turn the "C"s for only 4*. i have 8 inches of suspension lift on my pickup. i just turned the axle so the pinion angle looked good. it runs down the road nice.. From what i have read about turning the "C"s, its a pain to get them to move..
i would not go through all the work to turn the "C"s for only 4*. i have 8 inches of suspension lift on my pickup. i just turned the axle so the pinion angle looked good. it runs down the road nice.. From what i have read about turning the "C"s, its a pain to get them to move..
Do you recall about how much you rotated the axle for 8 inches?
Did you use spring pad wedges, or did you use drop hangers in the front?
Did it move the front axle back in the wheel opening any?
Well I used radius arns and coils. So its hard to say. I put it under there, hooked up the driveshaft and set the pinion angle. But I'm sure on yours you should get away with some shims.
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What is this bracket on my 91 D60?
