This weekend I'm going to replace the slave cylinder in my 1995 F150 4x4. I have a couple questions:
1) Ford has a slave cylinder that looks a little better than the style I have in the truck now, Ford's new version is completely covered with a rubbber boot. The one I have now does not have a rubber boot, and the seal is exposed. I'm guessing the new Ford version is better, since it seals the cylinder more from clutch dust contamination. Anyone have experience with either style?
2) Anyone have a fool-proof method for bleeding the damn thing?
Woops, my bad. Internal slave, M5OD trans, 1356 xfer case. 55,000 miles on the truck. I'll probably replace the clutch while I'm in there also. The slave just started leaking when the weather got cold, being a southern truck, I'm guessing this Nebraska weather isn't being very kind to the slave cylinder seal. I'm not crazy about the plastic construction of the internal slave cylinder, but it appears those are my only replacement options.
I know the M5OD is junk, but it seems to be working good right now, so I'll go with it. Someday if I keep it long enough, I'll put in a ZF ;-)
I can't help help with the technical part of this. But I have done this job on my son's jeep and I have done brake master and slave cylinders.
My contribution to this thread: Buy yourself a set of flare wrenches before you start this; and use them. You'll be glad you did -- Like Bogey said: "Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow, but someday, sweetheart".
The best way is with a vacuum bleeder. But, if you don't have one, this is what I did. Make sure the master is full. Crack the bleed screw, then let gravity work for a little while. If you can connect some clear tube to the bleeder it will help. I used an old piece of O2 hosing. Just watch the fluid as it comes out, when you stop seeing air bubbles, close the bleeder.
Now comes the fun part. Get in the truck, push the clutch pedal to the floor, hold for a couple of seconds, release the pedal as fast as you can (removing your foot is the best way). Do this ten times. Now, get back under the truck, crack the bleeder screw, then close the bleeder again. Repeat this procedure about 5 times.
Make sure you keep the level of fluid in the master topped off. If the fluid gets too low, you have to start the procedure all over again.
That should do it.
It sounds like a lot, but it only takes about 20 minutes to do all of this.
BTW, where in NE are you located? I'm in Western Iowa myself.
Just to keep your frustration level down, make sure you purchase a quality set of flare wrenches. Cheap ones will still round off the nuts as the wrench spreads.
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>I'm in southeast Nebraska, south of Lincoln about 40 miles.
>But I used to live in northeast Nebraska, about 40 miles
>west of Sioux City Ia. Used to drive by IBP everytime we
>went to SC
LOL, I work at IBP!
I know what you mean by the cold weather and transmissions. I recently installed a NP435, that thing is a bear to shift when it is cold. I just bought a tank heater today, I'm going to try and install it tomorrow. I hate a cold truck in the mornings.
Hi im new here but i need some help my dad passed a few days ago and left me with his truck a guy says it needs the slave cylinder replaced but i need to know if it is in the trans or out of it it is a 1994 4 speed manuel trans please help me im about to drive 230 miles to fix it i hope
I need some help in a bad way I've just got done replacing the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and I can't get the hydraulic line to clip back into the slave cylinder I've tried everything I know how cracking the bleeder checked to see if any part of the quick connector is damaged but no luck oh I have a 87 f150 with a 88 5 speed trany that has the internal slave