That is what my socket style did. Let me know if you can't find a claw-type extractor. I can mail this one to you or I can buy you a new one and mail it.
Next time, don't use heat. You have added enough heat to break the bond but you may be expanding the aluminum around the stud.
I thought I would be cutting my mangled studs off and drilling them. But the extractor turned them right out.

 

Hey, your fast, phoned Princess Auto in Ottawa, they don't carry it, so phoned the 800# and got Winnipeg, head office I guess, Rebbecca was able to find it and describe it to me as it was not on her computor. 24.99+tax, plus 6.65 postage, about 35.00.
Hopefully they will mail it out today and I'll get it next week, not really a big hurry, we're quite busy with family health matters right now, not certain when we'll get back to use the Motorhome.
Got your note re:heat, will leave that off procedure once I get the Claw-type extractor.Hopefully my mangled 2 studs will come right out like yours did and the 3 good treaded ones will follow suit. Update probally next week.
Hey thanks, your are quite the friend with your offer(s). If you are ever in my area, you would be most welcome to drop in. Eugene. My e-mail address is: egtheriault@sympatico.ca....

 

saskdiesel: As you can see, I have time on my hands. Just wondering, noticed in your pic's, appears you used OEM gaskets.

I picked up a set of manifold gaskets from Auto Zone in the states a couple of weeks ago, they are made by FelPro, they look like a shiny waffle material, price was about 20.00 for complete set of 4 for both sides of engine.

Local US Ford dealer wants about 104.00 US for the set. Just saw them earlier this week, they are layered metal, thicker at the center ring part.

Just curious, what did you use? Do you think I am better off going with OEM?

 

I just ordered the claw remover so I have two of them coming the socket type and the claw. My stuff should be here early next week. I am on vacation and my wife wants to tow our boat down to Lake Norman but I am kind of afraid going that far 8hours with the exhaust like it is.

 

I used Ford gaskets. The shop foreman who maintains the Ford fleet where I work (about 180 vehicles) said the factory gaskets allow for a lot more expansion and contraction and recommended I use them.
So I figured for an extra $80 I would. Then I could get all the parts at the same place.
But I've used Felpro on my Land Cruiser with good results.

 

I've been running from Saskatchewan to S.D with half the bolts missing on the right side.
But every trip I always wondered if the manifold was going to fall off!

 

Actaully we are leaving today pulling the travel trailer up north.
Five day trip. Hope I got all the bolts tight!

 

Well maybe I should go then. With my luck it probably would fall off on the interstate

 

Good trip with no trouble.
But, should I retorque the bolts?
Here is a pic of my truck and 26 ft travel trailer.

 

Hey saskdiesel, nice looking setup for camping, we towed trailers with surburbans for
20+years, 16/22/30/29 foot before going with Class A rigs, and if I ever figure how to post pic's here, I try to post our rig.
Not certain if you need to retorque, but if it's not too difficult to reach them, probally a good idea, perhaps someone else would have input, mind you aside from the heat/cold cycle, it's not like wheel studs which are subject to vertical and lateral forces.
I read on one forum that it would help the manifold and studs/nuts if we idle the engine after a hard highway run to let it cool down a bit. Something I hope to creat a habit on.
Spent the day on F-53 chassis, removing and reinstalling the front caliper slide pins, still well greased, also removed the ABS front magnetic wheel sensors, cleaned them up, mild filing to get them shiny and a light lubing to resist the rust. Do this once a year or so, keeps ABS light from coming on.
Had trouble finding the EGR tube I cut up, Cdn dealer local, and a NY dealer said it was no longer available, phoned Teamfordparts.com in AZ, Pat in the parts found the same no longer avail., but he did a search and found several in his and nearby states, so I order it, under US$ 60.00, plus the upper and lower Radiator hoses, our rig is 10 years old, about 70M miles, so decided to bite the bullet before they blow on the road, should have parts delivered to BIL in northern NY later this week, probally coincide with the Claw Titan stud extractor.
Meanwhile, will be doing my sons 02 mazda protege, complete front/rear brakes (pads/calipers/rotors) some wheel bearings and two rear sway bar links, that should keep be busy on Friday. Ha.

Update on the F-53 manifold job probally next week.

 

I don't have to buy the egr tube my truck doesn't have one. My headers have arrived, I drove out to dad's to get his opinion I think we are going to try to cut the nuts off if we can then try to remove the studs. I am going to attemp this in about two weeks.

 

I would try and turn them out before cutting the nuts off.
I thought for sure that all the studs would snap. But nearly all of them came out with the nut.

 

After a few heat/cool cycles it would be in your best interest to re-torque especially if you used anti-seize. I did 3x on my little lady just to make sure, but I'm a particular type guy when it comes to maintenance.

 

Maybe I will try that. I don't want to do this week with it being the 4th and having to tow my boat around. The week after next I am going to start on it around 8 in the morning on Tuesday.

 

As far as retorquing goes, I say "check torque" but do not "ADD torque".

In other words, make sure they haven't loosened up, but do NOT add another "1/2 turn for good measure". If they have noticeably loosened up, go ahead and torque again, but ONLY to factory spec, not even 1 lb-ft more. And if you used new self locking nuts, it is unlikely they will need any tightening. Just put a wrench on and give them a gentle pull - to like 75% of the original torque to make sure the stud/nut did not loosen

Why? To give them a "good measure" cinch will lead to exhaust leaks and stud breakage. The number one cause of header/manifold leaks is OVER torquing.

Things expand when they heat up, and contract when they cool. The manifolds expand more than the studs (since they get hotter). To allow for this, the gasket needs to have a little "give" to expand back when the engine cools. If you tighten the nut beyond the specified torque, you overcompress the gasket and it will no longer be able to compensate. In addition, the stud will also now be under more stress and more likely to fail.

Gosh, I guess that kind of explains why the original engineer specified a specific torque!