My 52 F2 w/239 has developed (?) a problem with cutting out and quiting. Yesterday I only got a few miles when it quit on me. I pulled the air cleaner, pumped the heck out of the gas pedal, and couldn’t smell any gas at the carb, even though the sediment bowl was full and clean. A good sam stopped, and we trickled a little gas in the carb, and it took right off.

The guy I got it from said he cleaned the tank (new seat bolts etc, so it looks like he did), installed a new fuel pump, and rebuilt the carb. There was no filter when I got it, so I cleaned the bowl and added an inline filter before this last (short) drive.

The day was cool, and the operating temp was just fine.

Could this be vapor lock ? If so, how do I fix it ?

 

I solved all of my fuel problems with an electric fuel pump. I got my pump, regulator and pressure gauge ( low pressure- 2psi ) from Speedway . That was many happy miles ago. Lazy

 

The coil can be the problem a lot of tims when this happens. Dit it take you a while to get gas? When you let it cool, it'll run again until that coil gets hot. It's a common failure mode

 

The condenser could also be shorting out when the engine warms up. A tune-up is relatively cheap, and worth a try.

 

I'm having the same problem, but if I pull the choke full closed quickly enough, it'll run another 3 to 4 seconds, enough to get off the road. After it cools, I can go another 2 or 3 miles until it warms up again, then same problem re-occurs. Does the 10% ethanol in our fuel now boil in hot weather after hot coolant runs through the intake manifold? Any responses would be greatly appreciated.

 

If it still has the original flexable hose that hooks the fuel pump to the line replace it as they can collapse on the inside,the gas we have now will most likely destroy a old hose.

 

Thank you. Hose is new, so is fuel pump. Took off air horn immediately after safely getting off the road and fuel bowl was filled to specification, float and needle valve were not stuck. (I've learned to carry tools and spare parts; ie coil, points, condensor, gaskets, blah, blah.) I've had coils in the past fail when they got warm, but a cool brand new one made no difference under warm block condition. It's got the old Ford dual carberettor rebuilt, and I didn't see any cracks or other damage. This one has me stumped.

 

also check your coil !!!!!!!!!! if it's bad you'll start her up drive for a bit and once she gets heat soaked your pushing 3600 pounds instead of driving it !!!!!!!i'd be willing to bet you a dollar it or the aforementioned condenser , is your problem . especially since everything else is cool . oh and don't ask how i know about the coil ....................

 

if the above does'nt work--(i think it will)-- try checking fuel line from tank to pump. it could have some junk plugging it up from cleaning tank. might be letting SOME fuel through, but not for long. good luck

 

Thank you, all. I tried everything you all suggested, and the problem is (drum roll please ) vapor lock in the fuel pump! Put ice on it and runs until the ice melts, then 3 to 4 miles later, shutdown until it cools again. Was that a 6 Volt pump, Lazy? I'll get on Speedway's site and find out. Thank you, everyone, for all the help. I never would'a thunk about half of your suggestions.

 

Kinda makes you wonder what they did in the old days...

 

Or atleast it was a reason why there werent fat people back then.....

 

Years ago a cure for vapor lock was to put a clothes pin or two on the gas line. Sounds crazy but I have heard it worked. I'm old enough I could have done it but I never had the problem. My 39 just ran, it could over heat when pushed, should have slowed the water pumps down.
Back to your problems, have you replaced or checked the lenght of your fuel pump push rod? Could have some bearing on the problem. Finally you can do what GM did on their 350 engined trucks. The fuel lines got hot back in the bell housing area (auto transmission) so they put a return line from the pump back to the tank. Line was restricted at the pump connection. This would solve the probem but it would require a small amount of work to find or make a restricted fitting for the return line. kotzy

 

I thought the return line was for an emission issue with fuel vapor coming out of the tank. That was the 1973 trucks, IIRC as I had one. No vent gas cap and a charcoal canister under the hood to capture the vapor.

 

I might add Chrysler did the same kind of a deal on the Omni/Horizon. No that line had nothing to do with the evaporative emissions, simply there for vapor lock/ drivability problems. kotzy