Howdy everyone. This is my first time posting on this forum. Hopefully someone can help me.

I've got an '02 Superduty F250. The sparkplug came out on the passenger side-rear (hardest one to get to, of course). Long story short, it looks like I was lucky and maybe it just worked it's way out, because I was able to run a tap through gently, and a new plug would thread in and torque to spec.

My problem now---It won't start. It cranks just fine, but the engine won't even try to catch. I have good fuel pressure at the fuel rail check point
(40 psi.). I can hear the pump running, in fact, it doesn't ever quit. I can hear the fuel hissing through the rails. The Idle Air Control solenoid is making a constant clunk-clunk sound the entire time that the key is on.

I've tried putting the original coil back on the rear cylinder, just in case the replacement is bad and causing a problem-no change. I've checked any fuse that the owners manual says anything about being related to ignition or engine control, and swapped relays around in the fuse panel to see if the relay went bad-no change. I bought an Actron brand code reader at the parts store, and it says that it can't connect with the vehicle-check connection. I plugged it into my '96 Park Avenue, and it interfaced just fine. I've heard from a mechanic that his Ford Ranger also had that problem with a Snap-On tool, so maybe it's just Fords in general?

I'm a good shade tree mechanic, but this is driving me nuts. Of course, this is happening right in the middle of moving, so I really need the truck working, and have no time to figure this out. Hopefully someone out there knows the magic words (and not, "Tow it to the shop" ;-). Thanks.

 

Well, not a good time to get answers here. Hopefully someone will pop up here and see your message.

Sounds like you have no spark. I don't have my 2000 diagrams here at home unfortunately, cause it might be in the fire circuit to tell the COPs to fire.

I have an Actron for my 2000 and it works fine. I even using it going down the road when I throw a code. So I know they work, but not why yours doesn't. Did you have the key on when you plugged it in? Mine requires my van to be powered, but I've found a Chrysler that didn't.

If you can read prints you could get the Mitchell manual online for $12 and follow it through electrically. Mitchell1.com

 

Yeah, maybe people will surf the forums a little after getting in from Memorial Day festivities this evening.

I'm hoping that it's not the main computer that's fried. I can't help but wonder if that would keep the reader from connecting (nothing to connect to). I'm also thinking that the fuel pump isn't supposed to just keep running as long as the key is on, and the Idle Air solenoid making the clunking sound is unusual too. I plugged the code reader into my wife's '05 Freestyle, and it worked just fine there too. On the truck I tried it with key on first then plug reader in, plug reader in first then turn the key on, and plugging it in and leaving key off. It didn't do anything with the key off, I got the error message trying it the other two ways.

I'm hoping to avoid digging through the miles of wiring in this thing. I also hate to start throwing parts at it, but I might try a new cam and/or crank position sensor, since they're not too expensive. Any problems or things to be aware of when changing them out? The cam sensor looks really easy, it looks like the A/C compressor needs to be moved to get at the crank one.

Can I pull a COP out and stick a sparkplug in it and test for spark that way? I've heard that can damage the electronics somehow.

Does the Mitchell manual have more/better wiring diagrams in it than the Haynes or Chilton manuals? I have both of those. I want to get the factory manual, but would like a real paper book if possible, not just an electronic version.

Thanks for taking the time to help, I appreciate it.

 

Well, we hope not. I had one that wouldn't connect too but I finally got it. Don't remember what it was.

Both of those do seem strange.

That I'm not sure about. Haven't has experience with them.

I've not heard that. I don't see how it would be any different than it being installed in the motor. As long as the plug is grounded, the electronics are going to see it the same.
Oh yeah! Much better. Definitely worth the $12 since I got mine, even just as reference. I printed mine out and 3 hole punched it and put it in a binder. I usually keep it in my van but I looked up some info in it for some post on here and I left it on my desk at work. I'd get it if it was easy, but I would have to call my boss and he'd have to call security and ...

Sorry I couldn't help much. I'm an electronic tech but its lot easier for me working with prints to see the problem.
I sure wonder about your computer too, but what could you have done to it to fry it? I would think it wouldn't be a common thing that happens.

 

I was just searching the forums, one guy couldn't start his but had 40 psi fuel pressure, but even though it turned over, his battery needed replaced and it worked fine. Make sure you have a good charge I guess.

Here's another:
Does the CEL come on at power-on?

Does the fuel pump prime?

Does your cigar lighter work?

Have you checked fuses F24 and F30 in the under hood box?

He ended up saying he only had fuel pressure on one side but no resolve was listed.

more as I read

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...r-problem.html

 

check the harness from the computer to bulk conetion right in front of the 2 big relays by the battery could be lose