who makes motorcraft belts
#6
Ah, well see I paid about $30 for mine, but my belt is a short one that only runs between the alternator and water pump, instead of the factory routing that reaches all the way down to the crank pulley. This is to avoid the belt-slapping at idle and decel, as it fatigues the belts faster than normal, and I really don't wanna risk a belt failure when I'm like 3 states away from home in the middle of nowhere at night.
By the way, here's a part # for you to look into: 5726 HD, this is a Gates no-stretch belt that was used in the ambulance vans and trucks, these had te 200-amp Leece-Neville alternator that required a much higher belt tension so there's no slipping, hence the belt needed to me that much stronger than normal.
By the way, here's a part # for you to look into: 5726 HD, this is a Gates no-stretch belt that was used in the ambulance vans and trucks, these had te 200-amp Leece-Neville alternator that required a much higher belt tension so there's no slipping, hence the belt needed to me that much stronger than normal.
#7
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#8
#11
Or that o $#!t feelin when you lose your alt belt, shrug it off, with ah I don't hardly need any juice to keep this all mechanical motgine going, then when you come up to stop sign and realize that the alt runs the vacuum pump which runs your brakes. I thought I was gonna push myself out the back of the cab.
#13
Actually you should have enough vacuum stored in the booster for like 3 brake applies, and on the first one the light should come on the dash to warn you about it. That said, I did have my vacuum pump die on me once, and that darn light never came on, good thing I got a pretty decent pedal feel and knew something ain't right right away...
By the way, if the ambulance belt is 2" longer, that means the alternator has to swing only 1" away from where it sits now, and those brackets have some looong adjuster slots for that purpose.
By the way, if the ambulance belt is 2" longer, that means the alternator has to swing only 1" away from where it sits now, and those brackets have some looong adjuster slots for that purpose.
#14
Hmm, I didn't even know there was a low vacuum light or a brake light of anykind, except for the ABS light which I removed the bulb so I could get the truck inspected.
I should have realized it, but I was in a huge hurry, I knew I didn't have an alt, but I was already running late to get to my school to leave for my State CX Debate tournament, so when I was coming to the stop sign, I was running hard and was expecting to be able to make a quick stop, but instead I got a near pantload.
I should have realized it, but I was in a huge hurry, I knew I didn't have an alt, but I was already running late to get to my school to leave for my State CX Debate tournament, so when I was coming to the stop sign, I was running hard and was expecting to be able to make a quick stop, but instead I got a near pantload.
#15
There's a red "Brake!" light on the right side of the cluster, under the tachometer, tis the same light that comes on when you use your parking brake (it's a dual purpose light). The low-vacuum switch that triggers it is on the passenger-side inner fender, it looks like a small tuna can with a vacuum hose and a three-wire harness attached to it.
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flainn
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
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03-31-2011 10:03 AM