Power Inverter Install (long w/ lots of pics)
#17
The 1/0AWG is pretty big so I decided to run it under the truck until I was
under the rear seat then come up through the floor. How convenient that
there was already a hole there, as you can see with a little help from Mr.
drum sander I was able to thread a conduit fitting in and silicone it down.
BTW is that the rear door on the ground. If so, you really went all out on this install.
#19
#21
I've got a bunch of electrical stuff to put in, too. I think you just inspired me as well... I have an amplifier (RADIO, no audio) to put in that draws over 90A peak, so I need to use the same methods you did. However, what I think I'll do is go ahead and run the heavy leads to a bus, and run smaller (say, 4 or 6 AWG) wires to the bus. The reason is that I have three other amps to put in (they're MUCH smaller 160W & 100W respectively, and a 250W audio amp for a sub), plus the actual radio that draws 20A. I never use more than one at a time, obviously -- running 500W output on HF with the stereo blasting is impossible, so I'll only be using one amp at a time. Also, the radio gets its power turned down a bit to drive the amp, so I'm looking at about 90A + 15A max in my case. The other smaller amps are for other bands, and I can only run one band at a time, so ~105A is my worst case... I do need to get this done -- my "temporary" install has now been there about 2 years.
Great job!!
Great job!!
#23
#26
Patrick, after looking at it more closer can I suggest something? I had similar setups on massive stereo systems and the only thing that would scare me is that I dont see a circuit breaker close to the battery just incase there is a wiring issue with the positive cable. I would use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse that you were thinking about.
#27
Nice write up! That is the same place I put mine. I also mounted under my seat; an amp for my stereo, amp for my cb radio and 6 disc cd player (no longer used now that I got an MP3 Player). You should see the snake of wires running down the passenger side of my truck! Made it hard to put the molding back on.
Makes good use of that wasted space!
While I had everything stripped out, I wired separate fuse blocks under the dash with it's own power supply to the battery. One side of it is switched to the ignition with a relay, the other side is live all the time. That way, I do not have a bunch of wires going to the battery.
Nice job.
FT
Makes good use of that wasted space!
While I had everything stripped out, I wired separate fuse blocks under the dash with it's own power supply to the battery. One side of it is switched to the ignition with a relay, the other side is live all the time. That way, I do not have a bunch of wires going to the battery.
Nice job.
FT
#28
Patrick, after looking at it more closer can I suggest something? I had similar setups on massive stereo systems and the only thing that would scare me is that I dont see a circuit breaker close to the battery just incase there is a wiring issue with the positive cable. I would use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse that you were thinking about.
what would be a pro of using a breaker instead of a fuse besides being able to reset it instead of replacing the fuse? I was going to go with an ANL 300A fuse.
#30
At first glance it looked like the door was on the ground in that picture, must just be the angle of the camera.