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  #16  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick77598 View Post
nope just a single alternator, although i would like to add the lower unit, that means that i can only draw those kinds of current for a very short amount of time then have to jet the truck recharge the battery
Instead of going with the 2nd alt whay not just go with a H.O. from DB Electrical?
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2009, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick77598 View Post
Click the image to open in full size.
The 1/0AWG is pretty big so I decided to run it under the truck until I was
under the rear seat then come up through the floor. How convenient that
there was already a hole there, as you can see with a little help from Mr.
drum sander I was able to thread a conduit fitting in and silicone it down.
Looks like a very thorough job with good attention to detail. Nice write up too.

BTW is that the rear door on the ground. If so, you really went all out on this install.
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  #18  
Old 05-06-2009, 09:50 AM
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You've inspired me to install my inverter that's been sitting
on my workbench for the last 2 years....Thanks
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2009, 09:51 AM
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Nope i didn't take the doors off, but if i'm unemployed much longer the front bumper is coming off i get board really easily.

I have been looking at the HO alternators, i wonder what the biggest i could get is?
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2009, 09:59 AM
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Great looking install. Impressive work. Excellent write-up.
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  #21  
Old 05-06-2009, 10:28 AM
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I've got a bunch of electrical stuff to put in, too. I think you just inspired me as well... I have an amplifier (RADIO, no audio) to put in that draws over 90A peak, so I need to use the same methods you did. However, what I think I'll do is go ahead and run the heavy leads to a bus, and run smaller (say, 4 or 6 AWG) wires to the bus. The reason is that I have three other amps to put in (they're MUCH smaller 160W & 100W respectively, and a 250W audio amp for a sub), plus the actual radio that draws 20A. I never use more than one at a time, obviously -- running 500W output on HF with the stereo blasting is impossible, so I'll only be using one amp at a time. Also, the radio gets its power turned down a bit to drive the amp, so I'm looking at about 90A + 15A max in my case. The other smaller amps are for other bands, and I can only run one band at a time, so ~105A is my worst case... I do need to get this done -- my "temporary" install has now been there about 2 years.

Great job!!
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  #22  
Old 05-06-2009, 10:40 AM
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Nice job with the install and write-up! But why did you steal my channel locks?
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  #23  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduty4x4 View Post
Nice job with the install and write-up! But why did you steal my channel locks?
and you'll have to fight me to get them back
i bought them to replace some cheap harbor freight ones, that was a good decision those are really nice
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  #24  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:22 AM
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Very cool. Now if your batteries die you can plug the charger right into your truck :-)
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  #25  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:22 AM
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Great Install.. Makes me want to get on the ball and install mine!!!
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  #26  
Old 05-06-2009, 11:36 AM
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Patrick, after looking at it more closer can I suggest something? I had similar setups on massive stereo systems and the only thing that would scare me is that I dont see a circuit breaker close to the battery just incase there is a wiring issue with the positive cable. I would use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse that you were thinking about.
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  #27  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:02 PM
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Nice write up! That is the same place I put mine. I also mounted under my seat; an amp for my stereo, amp for my cb radio and 6 disc cd player (no longer used now that I got an MP3 Player). You should see the snake of wires running down the passenger side of my truck! Made it hard to put the molding back on.

Makes good use of that wasted space!

While I had everything stripped out, I wired separate fuse blocks under the dash with it's own power supply to the battery. One side of it is switched to the ignition with a relay, the other side is live all the time. That way, I do not have a bunch of wires going to the battery.

Nice job.

FT
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  #28  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8tsixt View Post
Patrick, after looking at it more closer can I suggest something? I had similar setups on massive stereo systems and the only thing that would scare me is that I dont see a circuit breaker close to the battery just incase there is a wiring issue with the positive cable. I would use a circuit breaker instead of a fuse that you were thinking about.
i have been thinking about going with a breaker instead of a fuse but havent gone with anything yet, but its not hooked up to the battery yet.

what would be a pro of using a breaker instead of a fuse besides being able to reset it instead of replacing the fuse? I was going to go with an ANL 300A fuse.
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  #29  
Old 05-06-2009, 12:51 PM
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The pro to using a circuit is not needing to replace fuses if you have a huge power surge. I think a circuit breaker looks more proffesional also.
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  #30  
Old 05-06-2009, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick77598 View Post
Nope i didn't take the doors off, but if i'm unemployed much longer the front bumper is coming off i get board really easily.

I have been looking at the HO alternators, i wonder what the biggest i could get is?
At first glance it looked like the door was on the ground in that picture, must just be the angle of the camera.
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Old 05-06-2009, 05:23 PM
 
 
 
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